I've thought about the comments people are saying about giving my son the car. i agree that its not a good starter car. It won't be his only vehicle. I just want him to have something that his father owned and cherished that is then passing on to him. Maybe I will wait until he is a little older to give it to him. For his daily driver we'll buy him something safer such as a sedan or SUV. Thanks to all for your concern.

 

I agree with you. I'm scheduled to get an Osiris reflash this coming Monday. I'm pretty excited about it.

Just yesterday i spent an hour with the car putting in a new battery. I had an OEM in there that was just over 5 years old and the car was starting to take a while to turn on. After swapping out the new battery she starts right up like she did on day 1. Spent my $95 wisely. I thought about getting a yellow top but to pay $220 for a battery seemed rediculous.

Anyway, I'm doing before and after dyno's so I'll get to see exactly how much power the tune really gives me.

I still have about $300 to use up on the car after I pay for the tune. I also ordered the hood dampers for it in CF. I think my wife is getting me that Escort 8500 x50 i've been checking out so looks like it'll be a good December for the car.

 

I see you're in NJ. Where are you going for Osiris tune? I did the UpRev email tune and while I'm pretty happy with the results I'd like to find someone local to tune it on a dyno.

I agree about giving Z to teenager... too much car / too much temptation. Had a tragedy in my neighborhood last year that was same scenario.

Post the before and after dyno sheets if you can.

Enjoy.

 

I'm getting the dyno and tune done at R/T Tuning out in Landsdale PA. I'm in North/Central NJ and its about a 90 mile drive for me so its only about 1.5 hours. I'll def post dyno results. Only 4 more days

 

I'm actually a bit closer to them, and have only heard good things about their work. ...guess i'm just lazy in getting my self out there.

Looking forward to hearing and seeing how things go. It may motivate me to do the same

Good luck.

 

Ok all, so today I got my Osiris reflash performed. I had the work done at R/T Tuning in Landsdale PA. Here are my impressions and numbers.

First, I'd like to say that the car definitely feels better to drive. It pulls a little harder and at seems to me like some of my drone is gone. The guys at R/T are good people to deal with and very professional. They took the time to explain everything to me and even let me video tape the last run from inside the bay.

Secondly, I'd like to say that overall I'm dissapointed in my car's overall numbers. The car baselined at 238whp and 224 Torque before the Tune. After the tune it went up to 247whp and 236 Torque. I'd also like to note that I'm running on 19" wheels now. When you read later on in the post you'll know why I mention this. The car was Dyno'd on a Dynojet and it was probably about 45 degrees inside the garage where the work was performed. ANother reason why I feel my numbers are a little low.

About 2 years back when I got my TurboXS exhaust put in, I had MRC dyno the car and the average number came back at 267ish whp. I thought that was pretty good. At the time I was running on stock 17" wheels. I believe they had a dynapak dyno but I'll doublecheck that against my Dyno sheet if I can find it. The garage the worked was performed in was probably about 65-70 degrees on that day. ANyway, since then, I have added a mishimoto carbon fiber intake, berk HFC, and the PowerLabs plenum spacer. Based on all my additions I was hoping to have much better numbers than I actually ended up with. Some people say Dynopaks read high so not sure if that has anything to do with it.

Does anyone know if running on larger wheels would actually affect the dyno output numbers?

Also, the guys at R/T said that my car did baseline a little lower than most Zs. They say they usually baseline around 244whp. Thats what really kills me. After spending over a grand I get like 3whp over a stock car. They also mentioned that due to the fact that I don't have test pipes or a Y pipe that my output maybe constricted. I can understand that but being from Jersey I decided not to mess with smog since emissions here during inspection are brutal. Correction, were brutal. I've heard from several people now that NJ has completely changed their inspection methods and barely look the car over. Seems like anyone gets a pass now. Last year they even took photos from underneath my car, now this? Great. Maybe I will get a Testpipe in the near future and redyno.

So there you have it, I picked a tune and the results of the tune are nice, but the overall numbers put out by my car are not to my satisfaction. Maybe I need to buy a faster car or maybe I just need to save my money. I barely even drive it anyway. I'm still pissed. Sorry to rant. I'll upload my dyno sheet and maybe a video later but who wants to see a wimpy Z on the dyno anyway? Thanks for reading.

 

Just checked my old dyno videos and MRC had a dyno dynamics, not dynopak. I think my numbers between the two different dyno's should ahve been closer to each other and not as far apart as they were.

 

You cannot compare the results of 2 different dynos, 2 years apart. They have nothing in common with one another

the final #'s are useless..the gains are the only thing that matters

you have a Y pipe

the cold weather helped your dyno, not hurt it

 

lol so many threads of people aww beat up bc there dyno numbers. If it drives good feels fast b happy

 

edit.. read the whole thread..

I would go nitrous

 

Z1 - I know the cold weather helped, I don't argue that point. Final numbers do matter to me. If they didn't I wouldn't have bothered getting a dyno and just gone with an email tune. I can definitely feel a difference in driveability of my car. I'm just saying that I thought my numbers would have been better, thats all.

2004BLACK350Z - you're right. The car does feel good and i should be happy and I am. I'm just hung up on numbers.

By the way, does anyone know the answer to the question I posted which was "does the size of your wheels/tires make a difference on the dyno?"

 

but you're focused on the wrong final #'s

Different dyno, that could very well be calibrated a different way, on a different day, 2 years ago? There is zero comparison to be made, wheels and weather aside. A dyno is a tool - it is relative unto itself, and that's all. Just like a torque wrench. 80 ft lbs on one torque wrench is not necessarily the same on another. There are variances. Tires are the same. A 274/4018 from one brand can have totally different section width and sidewall heights v another brand. Had you driven from MCR to R/T on the same day, either present day, or back then, you very well might have found a 15% difference between the #'s too. No change to the car, just measuring things with a different tool. That is how the chips fall in a dyno comparison. The last one mine was tuned on is setup to output "raw" data (Mustang) and the owner doesn't use correction factors of any kind...and it's not forgiving. It repeatedly shows a 21-23% difference (lower) than another widely used dyno in that area. If you didn't know better, you would think someone could be drastically wrong with the car, but there isn't. It runs better than ever. The only important change is the change you realize on a single day. People get all caught up in it for whatever reason, instead of taking the time to understand how the #'s are generated in the first place, and what can cause anomolies.

You did get final #'s - you came in with X hp, you left with X + hp...that is a net gain and that is all that matters. There is no basis to say your numbers should have been higher this time, because no one knows how accurate your previous trip was.

Wheels and tires - it can, depends on the dyno type

 

While I understand that there's no comparing the two differnt dyno's, just the before and after tune, I guess I too would have expected better gains than 9HP/12TQ, or is that typical?
I have the base Osiris etune for my G. The car definatley drives better and is stronger in the mid to upper revs but I keep thinking that a dyno tune would be better. After reading this I'm not so sure that I'd get any better bang for the buck, rather save $$$ for FI.

???

 

That was exactly the point I was trying to make initially - after doing a plenum spacer, intake, HFCs and an exhaust, plus a reflash I would have expected more HP that what I gained. But either way, it is what it is and I do feel a difference so although it cost me for the dyno time and least I know where I am.

If you have the money I would say get it dyno tuned so you know where you stand. The reason I'm choosing not to go FI is because i don't want to lose any reliablity. I'm not much more than a weekend mechanic (if that) so at my skill level I'd probably be taking a big risk going with FI being that I wouldn't know where to start troubleshooting if I had a problem.

 

$800 not $3,800

I wouldn't worry about numbers from dyno to dyno it is not an accurate comparison. Now try some headers or gears as the next step.

 

y\Yes, those are very typical...but without seeing the 2 sheets, before and after, its awfully hard to get perspective on the differences pre and post tune. Peak power is only one part of it

 

Thanks - good point about peak readings not really giving you the whole picture.

ntwillie - can you post your dyno sheets?

 

Get gears, spray it..... But most of all enjoy it...

 

My 05 (with no HP mods) has been dyno'd 3 times on three different dynos in two different states.

The numbers range from 237 to 251. The 237 number was the one I was "happiest" with because it was done at ZdayZ, when a lot of other Z's were doing pulls.

Even though it's the lowest number my car has ever gotten,a lot of other stock Z's ran on the same dyno, the same day.

On that dyno, and that day, 237 HP was pretty good.

 

So you with no mods hit 237, me with mods baselined at 238. Thats weak sauce for me man. I'm posting up my dyno results shortly.