You can also push bleed from the slave and have the air bleed out the top of the reservoir. I saw it searching youtube and plan on using this option if needed.

 

I finally replaced the master cylinder today and bled with fresh Superblue dot 4 fluid. The pedal improved quite a bit but still sags about an inch when driving in this hot summer heat for more than 20mins in stop and go. I'll try rebleeding again. Perhaps I'll change the slave cylinder too while I'm under the car.

 

figured I'd ask here rather than create a new thread...
just lastnight after a good drive out, returning home - clutch pedal not returning fully. researched and found this thread along with others that diagnose it as a slave & or master cylinder issue.
I have a 05' MT Grand Touring - JDM spec, providing the VIN# to the US Nissan dealership for parts in the past has proven useless as nothing pops up in their system. It was a task and a half when I had to get a fuel pump assembly.
My question is:
Is the slave & master cylinder the same for the 03-05 and the 06+ and for the different trim models within the years?
If so, I would beable to call and just ask for the parts I need without needing specific part numbers. Which would be ... if not then
Thanks in advance for help and info.

 

I'm going to replace my clutch fluid and see if it works. It's got good reviews on G35driver.

http://g35driver.com/forums/drivetra...me-here-3.html

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

 

You might THINK you have all of the fluid out but I ran into this on more than 1 occasion. More than likely you still have air in the system. Bleed it as best you can and drive it. When you start to experience the poor pedal travel, rack it back up and bleed it a bit more. I have yet to bleed ALL the air out in one sitting. "Flush" machines aren't any better. I don't believe it is a pedal spring issue at all and in most cases, it probably isn't a mechanical failure. There are always exceptions but before I spent another dime, I'd keep at bleeding it.

 

my 06 mt's clutch pedal is sticking at the last inch or 2 when its hot. anyone with a permanent solution. it seems to be as common as axle click. (which i also have)

 

Same thing here on my '06. Luckily it was doing it when I went for an oil change yesterday, so the tech could easily replicate the issue. Also luckily I got suckered into buying the 7 year / 100k mile extended warranty back in 2006 when I bought the car, so they will replace my slave and master cylinders under warranty!

 

new clutch fluid didnt help? let me know if they agree to replace those parts due to just a malfunction, and not failure. yay for my 3 more years of warranty!!

 

Knock on wood, but so far new clutch fluid is working. Before I changed it, the fluid was pretty brownish and there was residue in the reservoir, but after 3 swaps it remained clear.

I haven't had to sit in traffic yet, so I guess the real test will have to wait. Oh, and I used Motul 600.

 

They didn't even mention checking or changing the fluid, they basically just identified the issue as the cylinders going bad and said they would get the parts on order. I'll let you know how it goes...should be done by the end of next week.

While they are in there: is there anything that can be done to give the stock clutch a stiffer feel? Obviously I could upgrade to an aftermarket clutch, but the stock one is still working so I don't want to upgrade just yet.

Will using a better grade fluid do anything for me?

 

I think some of you guys have issues where it gets stuck a little bit past the engagement point and bleeding your clutch, getting an SS line, or replacing your master cylinder is not going to do anything.... I looked around the pedal assembly and regreased around the pivot point and that worked for me.

 

Any pics showing how to bleed the air in the slave cylinder?

 

I have the same sticky pedal problem too and changing the fluid to dot 4 motul isn't doing it. I guess I have to change my slave and master cylinder soon. Anyone able to direct me to websites that sell master cylinder? I don't wanna get it from nissan dealer in Australia, they are well known for rapping us on prices. Also, any detail in the "clutch orifice" thingy? I am keen to do that too when replacing my slave and master cylinder.

 

Where is that pivot point?

 

I think he's referring to greasing the clevis pin (#3 in the first pic) and the clevis (#7 in the second pic)

 

Anyone in the palm beach Florida area I live around gateway and jog. Could use a Z buddy that could get under my car for the low throughout my Z’s life. I’d help to and hopefully learn myself. Gonna need to change my clutch soon and anything probably in the same area like bearingns maybe bushing between some gears etc..

 

How did you fix this problem?