Last resort, cannot switch gears cold! help!
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Last resort, cannot switch gears cold! help!
Okay, I’m posting here as a last resort because I’ve taken my car to 5 different mechanics spent well over 2 thousand dollars and still not resolution to my current problem and was hoping someone could provide me with some assistance and maybe some expertise on what my problem could be.
Brief description of my problem:
I have a 2005 350z base model 6 speed 35k miles, for the past 6 month I’ve been having a serious problems switching gears until my car has fully “warmed up”, I’m not talking about just a hard shift but what I’m talking about is I’m completely unable to move the shifter from 1 gear to the next including reverse, I could use enough force I would most likely break the transmission or the entire shifter right in half before the car will switch gears until around 20 to 25 minutes of the car warming up after around 15 minutes I can move into the second gear and usually stay there until the car is fully warmed up and shifting then becomes easy…. Technicians have ruled out a transmission problem switch tanny fluids 3 times…. The problem only occurs if the car has sat over night and the car goes completely cold.
I have noticed one thing in the past 2 days.. When my car is turned off I can switch into gears very easily so I usually put my car into second gear and drive around until its warm and can move into other gears.
So I’m really reaching out to everyone and hopefully we can find a solution…. I have thought one of problem either the slave/master clutch cylinder? But could this be the problem? Anything else? Please all suggestions would be appreciated.
Brief description of my problem:
I have a 2005 350z base model 6 speed 35k miles, for the past 6 month I’ve been having a serious problems switching gears until my car has fully “warmed up”, I’m not talking about just a hard shift but what I’m talking about is I’m completely unable to move the shifter from 1 gear to the next including reverse, I could use enough force I would most likely break the transmission or the entire shifter right in half before the car will switch gears until around 20 to 25 minutes of the car warming up after around 15 minutes I can move into the second gear and usually stay there until the car is fully warmed up and shifting then becomes easy…. Technicians have ruled out a transmission problem switch tanny fluids 3 times…. The problem only occurs if the car has sat over night and the car goes completely cold.
I have noticed one thing in the past 2 days.. When my car is turned off I can switch into gears very easily so I usually put my car into second gear and drive around until its warm and can move into other gears.
So I’m really reaching out to everyone and hopefully we can find a solution…. I have thought one of problem either the slave/master clutch cylinder? But could this be the problem? Anything else? Please all suggestions would be appreciated.
#2
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What all did you have done for $2K and who did it?
"When my car is turned off I can switch into gears very easily....." This makes me think the clutch isn't releasing when you push the pedal down or possibly the pilot bearing is bad.
"When my car is turned off I can switch into gears very easily....." This makes me think the clutch isn't releasing when you push the pedal down or possibly the pilot bearing is bad.
Last edited by winchman; 04-12-2011 at 07:56 PM.
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I have taken it to various mechanics here in vancouver BC and no one can seem to figure it out...... one dropped the tranny to have a look and didnt find anything wrong?? i'm just completely out of ideal's not sure what else to do.
If the clutch isnt relasing when i push down the pedal... why does it correct its self when it gets warm?
#4
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Good question, and I don't have an answer.
I can't think of anything that could be wrong with a clutch or pilot bearing that would cure itself when it was warmed up, but otherwise the symptoms point in that direction.
Is there an out-of-the-way place where you can park the car on a hill, so it will roll downhill with the engine off. See if it's hard to shift gears with the car rolling and the clutch pressed all the way down. Be careful, since you won't have power brakes with the engine off.
You might also try this: Before it's warmed up, stop the car on a slight hill (just enough so the car will start rolling by itself) and shut the engine off. Put the transmission in 1st gear, keep the clutch pedal down, and release the brakes. Note how quickly the car starts to move and pick up speed. Then try the same thing with the transmission in neutral. See if it makes any difference in how quickly the car starts to move and gain speed.
If there's a noticeable difference, it has to be the clutch dragging.
I suppose the grease in the pilot bearing could be getting stiff, but it's hard to imagine that would generate enough torque on the transmission input shaft to make it that hard to shift.
Did the mechanic actually take the clutch apart to inspect the disc and pressure plate?
I can't think of anything that could be wrong with a clutch or pilot bearing that would cure itself when it was warmed up, but otherwise the symptoms point in that direction.
Is there an out-of-the-way place where you can park the car on a hill, so it will roll downhill with the engine off. See if it's hard to shift gears with the car rolling and the clutch pressed all the way down. Be careful, since you won't have power brakes with the engine off.
You might also try this: Before it's warmed up, stop the car on a slight hill (just enough so the car will start rolling by itself) and shut the engine off. Put the transmission in 1st gear, keep the clutch pedal down, and release the brakes. Note how quickly the car starts to move and pick up speed. Then try the same thing with the transmission in neutral. See if it makes any difference in how quickly the car starts to move and gain speed.
If there's a noticeable difference, it has to be the clutch dragging.
I suppose the grease in the pilot bearing could be getting stiff, but it's hard to imagine that would generate enough torque on the transmission input shaft to make it that hard to shift.
Did the mechanic actually take the clutch apart to inspect the disc and pressure plate?
Last edited by winchman; 04-12-2011 at 09:31 PM.
#5
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Good question, and I don't have an answer.
I can't think of anything that could be wrong with a clutch or pilot bearing that would cure itself when it was warmed up, but otherwise the symptoms point in that direction.
Is there an out-of-the-way place where you can park the car on a hill, so it will roll downhill with the engine off. See if it's hard to shift gears with the car rolling and the clutch pressed all the way down. Be careful, since you won't have power brakes with the engine off.
You might also try this: Before it's warmed up, stop the car on a slight hill (just enough so the car will start rolling by itself) and shut the engine off. Put the transmission in 1st gear, keep the clutch pedal down, and release the brakes. Note how quickly the car starts to move and pick up speed. Then try the same thing with the transmission in neutral. See if it makes any difference in how quickly the car starts to move and gain speed.
If there's a noticeable difference, it has to be the clutch dragging.
I suppose the grease in the pilot bearing could be getting stiff, but it's hard to imagine that would generate enough torque on the transmission input shaft to make it that hard to shift.
Did the mechanic actually take the clutch apart to inspect the disc and pressure plate?
I can't think of anything that could be wrong with a clutch or pilot bearing that would cure itself when it was warmed up, but otherwise the symptoms point in that direction.
Is there an out-of-the-way place where you can park the car on a hill, so it will roll downhill with the engine off. See if it's hard to shift gears with the car rolling and the clutch pressed all the way down. Be careful, since you won't have power brakes with the engine off.
You might also try this: Before it's warmed up, stop the car on a slight hill (just enough so the car will start rolling by itself) and shut the engine off. Put the transmission in 1st gear, keep the clutch pedal down, and release the brakes. Note how quickly the car starts to move and pick up speed. Then try the same thing with the transmission in neutral. See if it makes any difference in how quickly the car starts to move and gain speed.
If there's a noticeable difference, it has to be the clutch dragging.
I suppose the grease in the pilot bearing could be getting stiff, but it's hard to imagine that would generate enough torque on the transmission input shaft to make it that hard to shift.
Did the mechanic actually take the clutch apart to inspect the disc and pressure plate?
I believe he did inspect the disk and pressure plate.... because he would have asked me to replace it and said it was in great condition... This is such a stupid problem to be having.. I'm lost and the problem is here we dont have many good mechanics :\
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well i'm not saying this is the answer but i had this exact same problem to a T about 4 months ago...clutch was smoked. Flywheel had some major heat waves in it. I suggest you get that clutch/flywheel looked at again and look at them yourself. Even if your not sure what your looking at if either are burnt up it just won't look right. I can't tell you why shifting became easier when the car was warm i thought it was very strange too. Anyway new clutch and flywheel and the problem was completely fixed, and my pilot bearing and fluid levels were completely fine during all of this
Did you notice your clutch pedal staying near the floorboard when you let out of it? If you didn't check your break fluid in the master cylinder i suggest you do that to.
hope this was helpful, good luck!
Did you notice your clutch pedal staying near the floorboard when you let out of it? If you didn't check your break fluid in the master cylinder i suggest you do that to.
hope this was helpful, good luck!
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maybe heat waves in the flywheel straighten out as it gets hot and the clutch is pushing on it? That would create more room and less drag on the clutch which would explain shifts getting easier as the car get warm..i think? lol I dunno i'm no clutch guru i can just change them.
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Heat is the answer to your questions; things expand when they're hot. Your transmission doesn't warm up at the same time as your engine, so you have to deal with the hard shifts for a while after the needle hits the normal operating temp.
To me it does sound like the clutch is having issues, but I believe some people were also having issues with something on the fork? I also agree that you should check the clutch fluid levels and if the clutch feels "mushy", have it bled.
Also...what kind of shop charges you if they can't figure out the issue? -.- I get ithat they're there to make money, but really? /end rant
To me it does sound like the clutch is having issues, but I believe some people were also having issues with something on the fork? I also agree that you should check the clutch fluid levels and if the clutch feels "mushy", have it bled.
Also...what kind of shop charges you if they can't figure out the issue? -.- I get ithat they're there to make money, but really? /end rant
#10
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Air in the clutch line might cause the clutch to drag, but it wouldn't cure itself when the car warmed up. It might even get worse as it warmed up, since the larger volume of warm air would displace more fluid.
Red's experience seems to be right on point, and what he says happened makes sense, but it seems like it would take a LOT of heat to change the flatness of the flywheel. I doubt the car would drive normally when warm if the clutch was in such bad shape.
The clutch shouldn't be shot with just 35K miles on the car, but it looks like you'll have to take another look at it. It's a shame you'll have to remove the transmission again, but there's really no other choice.
Red's experience seems to be right on point, and what he says happened makes sense, but it seems like it would take a LOT of heat to change the flatness of the flywheel. I doubt the car would drive normally when warm if the clutch was in such bad shape.
The clutch shouldn't be shot with just 35K miles on the car, but it looks like you'll have to take another look at it. It's a shame you'll have to remove the transmission again, but there's really no other choice.
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from what he's saying on here it's exactly what i went through. start the car go to put it in reverse or 1st and it felt like the shifter would break before it went into gear. Let the car get warm then it was difficult to get in gear. At operating temp i could switch gears as if nothing was wrong.
What i was sayin earlier was just a guess i have no idea why it got easier as it got warmer, all i can think of is something giving way from heat.
And my clutch had 19k on it....got the JWT clutch and flywheel and had zero problems since and i'm at 25k now.
So in my opinion i don't think bleeding will do anything. I say you go to a reputable shop and have them check it out. I got a feeling the guy who "inspected" it before just glanced at the pressure plate and never even touched it.
What i was sayin earlier was just a guess i have no idea why it got easier as it got warmer, all i can think of is something giving way from heat.
And my clutch had 19k on it....got the JWT clutch and flywheel and had zero problems since and i'm at 25k now.
So in my opinion i don't think bleeding will do anything. I say you go to a reputable shop and have them check it out. I got a feeling the guy who "inspected" it before just glanced at the pressure plate and never even touched it.
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Did anything change that brought on these symptoms? Or was it something that started small and worked it's way to getting this bad? Fact that the shifter moves positions just fine with the car off rules out mechanical trans or linkage issues. Likely clutch related.
For giggles have a buddy pump the clutch pedal for you while you are experiencing the problem, look under the car and see if the slave cylinder rod is extending out all the way.
For giggles have a buddy pump the clutch pedal for you while you are experiencing the problem, look under the car and see if the slave cylinder rod is extending out all the way.
#13
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Air in the clutch line might cause the clutch to drag, but it wouldn't cure itself when the car warmed up. It might even get worse as it warmed up, since the larger volume of warm air would displace more fluid.
Red's experience seems to be right on point, and what he says happened makes sense, but it seems like it would take a LOT of heat to change the flatness of the flywheel. I doubt the car would drive normally when warm if the clutch was in such bad shape.
The clutch shouldn't be shot with just 35K miles on the car, but it looks like you'll have to take another look at it. It's a shame you'll have to remove the transmission again, but there's really no other choice.
Red's experience seems to be right on point, and what he says happened makes sense, but it seems like it would take a LOT of heat to change the flatness of the flywheel. I doubt the car would drive normally when warm if the clutch was in such bad shape.
The clutch shouldn't be shot with just 35K miles on the car, but it looks like you'll have to take another look at it. It's a shame you'll have to remove the transmission again, but there's really no other choice.
2 weeks after having the car the temperature dropped to 45 degrees and absolutely could not get the car in gear. Let the car warm up and I could get in gear and drive fine. The one symptom i did have was the pedal drooping to the floor until the car warmed up and I pumped the pedal a few times ( pumping cold didn't fix it).
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