siiick. subbed. best diy is about to be right here.

 

Best of luck with this swap. Lets see you get to enjoy the car for once

 

awesome man...glad to see it..hopefully this setup will give you good luck..

 

nice, im in for results

 

I don't know if I missed it somewhere but what kind of LS motor are you going to be running?

Edit: never mind its in the title

 

Subscribed... it's situations like yours that have prevented me from going FI and leaning more towards a swap. It's still a lil cost prohibitive for me though, as I don't have a garage just yet and would be paying someone to do the labor...which also seems to take some of the fun out of it. I haven't seen anyone doing a swap yet, really complain much about it, I assume because you are forging new ground and that alone, makes it more exciting than a Greddy/Vortech/whatevr build that has been done countless times...

 

subbed, looks like the ls swap is gaining ground. hopefully by the time i save up itll be an option for a build for me.

 

You better do the drill mod before you put the trans back on or upgrade to a 4an clutch line. Done the same swap and same kit. If you have any questions I would love to help out. Also before you drive hard upgrade fuel pump and lines. Try to relocate your line away from header even if you use heat sleeves. I ran stainless from my 255 Fuel pump inside the car to the engine bay. The line stays cool all the time. There are a lot of other little things you will need to know if you don't already. Hope everything goes well.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...g35-coupe.html

https://my350z.com/forum/g35-g37/529...ml#post9252494

 

whered you run your line?

what drill mod?

and how do you feel with sikkys wiring?


ps when you deleted your evap, did you remove all the hardlines?? i might just cap mine off

 

Looking at your very first pic on the LS forum it seems we drilled the hole in a similar spot for the clutch line. What problems were you having with the clutch? Was it related to overheating the fuild or the clutch itself? Also, how much clearance do you have for the fans and have you solved the heating issue? Did you ever get the AC sorted out?

I still have my fuel setup from my TT kit, so its actually overkill for this setup, the only issue there will be to connect my exsisting line to the LS clamp on fitting.

 

Great thread Chris

 

The internetz are making me jealous today... i want this.
good progress cass. thanks for the updates. surely this'll
help many others... fafone's car seems to be running "well"
if by well I mean ridic.

 

Just got a call back from my machine shop friend. He referred me to this guy who is local to me:

http://www.heperformance.com/news.html

They built this car:

http://www.streetfire.net/video/volv...-04_161374.htm

http://www.streetfire.net/video/twin...-7-l_84833.htm

He specializes in custom fab work. Just another resource and may be worth a phone call at least.

 

Took me a minute but I found this on LS1tech.com (make it your friend).
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/ho...021/index.html

A basic description of why this is a good mod I took from a member there, "Doing the drill mod removes the restriction in the line so the fluid moves more freely when engaging and disengaging the clutch. The restriction can cause the clutch to slip when released under power because of the fluid traveling so slow between the master and the slave. Yes they move enough fluid but how fast in reference to pedal movement is the question."

I've done this drill mod to my own LS1 Camaro and it works great. I'll post the link in the LS swap sticky, but feel free to have the mod delete it if you really don't want it in there.

 

ive read about this on factory lines, but with the sikky kit which includes all new lines, is this necessary?

 

After thinking I needed new brake pads on my DD I realized the noise I'm hearing is not the low pad sensors it a leak in the ball joint on the axle. The truck has 246K on it, so I will give it a pass for that. Love that truck, even when shizz breaks it just keeps running/

Anyway, got back to it today in the 90+ heat and humidity... its not just working on the car, its a weight loss plan

The stock shifter is first up. You will need a T20 torx bit to remove the plastic housing around the shifter.



Then a 6mm allen to remove the four bolts holding the stock shifter assembly in place.



Pics of the stock shifter well.

 

Here is one of the little details I had a question about. There was a rubber gasket under the stock shifter assembly, does it go back on under the SIKKY assembly? I gambled an put it back on. Also, should I have lubed the socket inside the housing where the shifter ball engages the trans?



Here is the completed setup.



I took this piece off, but after close inspection of the SIKKY thread it seems that the whole rear piece may pull out. Can anyone confirm this for me please? Lack of directions FTMFL!!

 

The trans mount was next (insert joke here)...

It is simple enough, just two 15mm bolts to remove from the underside. The hard part was that I needed the breaker bar to get mine loose, so one hand on the bar, one foot holding the cart in place and the other hand pushing on the far side of the trans. It was like Yoga



The SIKKY piece is much smaller, it didn't seem to have a left or right, so I just put it on. Need the 17mm socket for that. No TQ specs again, so just diesel them.

 

hah, Cass... ignore my last PM... looks like you have advanced quiet a bit more than i had thought lol... ( i need to be on here more often now ) looks good! everything should drop in fine!

 

Everything looks like it is coming together nicely!