My SIKKY LS2 install thread
those headers are sitting alittle too close!
I woke up this morning feeling like I was in a fight and lost. Hours under the car is hurting my feeleings. Every day I inch closer to just towing it to a shop to have it finished.
More updates later... made some good progress today
He just got the other tach this week and he needs to make sure it has a 270* needle swing like the stock one does.
Agreed... I just couldn't take it all off for a second time. I needed some win after all the fail. I will have to remove them again and grind a bit more
I woke up this morning feeling like I was in a fight and lost. Hours under the car is hurting my feeleings. Every day I inch closer to just towing it to a shop to have it finished.
More updates later... made some good progress today
Agreed... I just couldn't take it all off for a second time. I needed some win after all the fail. I will have to remove them again and grind a bit more
I woke up this morning feeling like I was in a fight and lost. Hours under the car is hurting my feeleings. Every day I inch closer to just towing it to a shop to have it finished.
More updates later... made some good progress today
Pics of todays progress. First, you will need the 3/8" tool to get the LS fuel fitting off. I got this sweet little tool at Harbor Freight for $5. Push it and and pull the fitting forward and then push back and it slides right off. WIN!!

A couple of pics of the finished fuel line, cause it is awesome!!

Picked this up at Advanced Auto, its a 4" intake filter. It will be a tight fit, but I wanted the largest intake possible and my tuner hates flow restrictions.

Also got this today:
http://www.turbohoses.com/135degree.htm
Got mine in red and the tuner will cut to fit

A couple of pics of the finished fuel line, cause it is awesome!!

Picked this up at Advanced Auto, its a 4" intake filter. It will be a tight fit, but I wanted the largest intake possible and my tuner hates flow restrictions.

Also got this today:
http://www.turbohoses.com/135degree.htm
Got mine in red and the tuner will cut to fit
Took a few minutes and secured the exhaust pipes with zip ties to keep them off the drive shaft during transit. A small step, but its all about the details.
I also realized today that the main vacuum line out the rear of the engine is the line the plugs in to the fitting the sticks out by the battery compartment on the VQ. The LS plug is oriented in the opposite direction, so I would like people to let me know how they have solved this issue.
Moved the oil temp line out of the lower engine bay and up to the top so it can plug in where the factory LS oil pressure sensor goes. Thanks to Quamen for the adaptor fitting, well worth the cost!! The stock LS sensor will require a deep well 1-1/16" socket for removal, I just bought a set of large standard deep well sockets from Harbor Freight for $20.
Finally, it was time to stop being a wuss and get up on the radiator hoses. I have been procrastinating because I've been scared of jacking it up, but I had a few beers and just figured it was time.
Cut the collars off two of the expansion fittings I got from Advance Auto in the exhaust section.

Next, I chopped up two hoses to get the right curves around the belt and into the top radiator fitting. These hoses are 1-3/8". Here is how it turned out. The hose sits appx 1/16" from the radiator at its closest point

Finally, I bit the bullet and cut up the $43 stock GTO radiator hose to prepare to orient the bottom inlet in the right direction for stock Nissan radiator fittings. I then ordered a 1-1/2" hose from American Speed that has a 14" section of straight hose I can cut out for the bottom section. I was informed that it has a 90* radius on it, so it may mate directly to the GTO hose with the expansion piece. I will find out Monday and expect to have the cooling system finshed then.
I also realized today that the main vacuum line out the rear of the engine is the line the plugs in to the fitting the sticks out by the battery compartment on the VQ. The LS plug is oriented in the opposite direction, so I would like people to let me know how they have solved this issue.
Moved the oil temp line out of the lower engine bay and up to the top so it can plug in where the factory LS oil pressure sensor goes. Thanks to Quamen for the adaptor fitting, well worth the cost!! The stock LS sensor will require a deep well 1-1/16" socket for removal, I just bought a set of large standard deep well sockets from Harbor Freight for $20.
Finally, it was time to stop being a wuss and get up on the radiator hoses. I have been procrastinating because I've been scared of jacking it up, but I had a few beers and just figured it was time.
Cut the collars off two of the expansion fittings I got from Advance Auto in the exhaust section.

Next, I chopped up two hoses to get the right curves around the belt and into the top radiator fitting. These hoses are 1-3/8". Here is how it turned out. The hose sits appx 1/16" from the radiator at its closest point


Finally, I bit the bullet and cut up the $43 stock GTO radiator hose to prepare to orient the bottom inlet in the right direction for stock Nissan radiator fittings. I then ordered a 1-1/2" hose from American Speed that has a 14" section of straight hose I can cut out for the bottom section. I was informed that it has a 90* radius on it, so it may mate directly to the GTO hose with the expansion piece. I will find out Monday and expect to have the cooling system finshed then.
I am currently on the fence about the battery relocation. Its ~$200 and I'm not sure if I want the extra work invoved in that project. I was only considering it because I already have the entire rear hatch and passenger side ripped apart from removing the meth kit and the harness.
I am currently on the fence about the battery relocation. Its ~$200 and I'm not sure if I want the extra work invoved in that project. I was only considering it because I already have the entire rear hatch and passenger side ripped apart from removing the meth kit and the harness.
got the driver side header on last night. what a pain in the ***. wrapped my turbo piping, and getting majority of everything situated today. i also am trying to source switched power and ground off the ecu for my fuel pump.
i have an sp triple, and the power/ground off each pump goes to a relay, with the relay sending 3 power wires straight to the battery. the 3 grounds go to a wire which was connected to my old fcon (ground off ecu) and then 3 other wires go to switched power off the ecu. now i prefer to run it off switched power, and qwamen brought up a good point to me the other day about the fuel system priming upon acc start up. if i dont connect it to switched power it will just keep pumping, and the last thing i want is a washed out cylinder, so i am on a quest to find the switched power and ground off the ecu wiring for this, as well as my other accessories.
i have an sp triple, and the power/ground off each pump goes to a relay, with the relay sending 3 power wires straight to the battery. the 3 grounds go to a wire which was connected to my old fcon (ground off ecu) and then 3 other wires go to switched power off the ecu. now i prefer to run it off switched power, and qwamen brought up a good point to me the other day about the fuel system priming upon acc start up. if i dont connect it to switched power it will just keep pumping, and the last thing i want is a washed out cylinder, so i am on a quest to find the switched power and ground off the ecu wiring for this, as well as my other accessories.
Please do your research and see that BRAILLE does not make batteries. They just slap their name on there and mark it up 200%. Please research into DEKA, and Odyssey who actually make batteries and sell them to braille so they can use marketing and make money of you.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1453475
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1453475
Does the starter need a negative connection to it? Mine has the purple thin wire and the heavy duty positive, then a small jumper from the solenoid to the starter itself. Not sure if I have to connect a ground










