Visited Specialty Z today in SoCal, to get the UpRev Osiris tune.
First off, the guys who work there, especialy Sebastian are great guys. Very friendly and helped me understand a lot more about the HR. I highly recommended their work for anything… they really know everything there is to know about any Z

We did 8 runs on the dyno.

Before tuned I was at: Max Power 289.58/ Max Torque 251.14

After the reflash with the Osiris, We were able to squeez out around 4-5 whp
.
After tune I was at: Max Power 293.68/ Max Torque 253 around 4.7k rpms

Also fixed the cel and raised my redline to 8.2k rpms


Here are some of my mods:

Injen dual CAI
AAM test and y pipe
Greddy Single


Youtube link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RoHXdajMsyI



**** was loud .
Shot with my iphone...

Mad props to SZ
http://www.specialtyz.com/

 

It sounds great man

 

All you could get is 5 hp with a tune?????

 

Sadly yes... I was told my HR was running pretty good (a little lean) before the tune.
Adjusted the fuel and air
DE's have greater numbers with a tune 15-20+ or so whp.
Some HR's gain between 5-12 whp
I could run w/ octane booster but that has little gains with NA builds

 

Isn't 8,200 rpms kinda high for stock valve springs?

 

So the net gain is a 1.4 percent increase in peak horsepower? With respect this is hardly "Oh Boy!"

 

Yeah, 8,200 is high, but its like saying there is no rev limiter... until 8.2k... i doubt this car will ever see pass 8 if that

 

dyno sheet?

8.2k sounds like the average .4-.6 rpm bump most people do...

 

i was expecting better results after the tune and worse numbers before the tune.

 

huh... i'd say quit while you're "ahead" - absolutely no on headers.

post the dyno sheet before and after.

 

8200 is a bit too high. I wouldn't go over 7750 max on stock erything.

 

Dyno sheet posted.

 

yeah with that curve 8.2k redline is almost pointless

 

I think you should have just gone with 8,000 since this is only 500 rpm above the factory redline. Of course I did go with 7,200 rpm on my 03' with no problem so you should be okay.

I think your numbers are good for just 3 bolt ons and a tune. You really didn't change that much from the OEM setup which is why you didn't see that much on the tune. Cams would have put your over 300whp and that is probably the best thing you can do N/A. I think a lot of people expect to much N/A from our cars in terms of performance over OEM standards. The best I have seen on a DE is 277whp, so you making 20 more makes sense.

Just goes to show you, if you are going to try for over 300whp you have to accept the fact that FI is the only way to get there or extreme N/A mods like a head build or cams. Or nitrous if you want to go the cheap way. Simple bolt ons won't generally get you there.

Also, don't get a tune unless you severly alter the car such as forced induction or a complete head build. As you can see, the oem cpu is totally capable of handling bolt ons.

 

^+1 agreed. I think you should have done better but what octane gas were you using? jw

 

By the way, your dyno is nice and smooth. But as you can see, raising your redline really didn't benefit the car any. It peaks out at about 6700 rpm. So raising the redline to over 8,000 rpm doesn't increase the power just the possible shifting point. The good thing is that when you shift at the new redline it should put you close to the optimum hp level on the rpm drop. This will help in drag racing with cars with shorter gear ratio's like WRX and the like. Raising the redline would be more beneficial for a higher final ratio that shorten the gears at the trade off of acceleration.

I am sacrificing top speed for overall acceleration with the 4.083 final drive.

Overall I would be happy with the outcome of your car. I don't think the tune was necessary though with so few modification.

By the way, don't go headers on the HR motor. The price for the consistent 5hp gain throughout the powerband isn't worth it.

There are other way of increasing speed without increasing horsepower.

 

car sounds great, and impressive power for minimal bolt ons. i say keep it as it is and enjoy it

 

Nice...

Hopefully your driving doesn't allow you to break your car! I set my tach to 7400rpm. I shift within in the next second when pushing it. So around 7500-7800rpm is ideal.

 

Since my car is the base model, What are your guys' thoughts on finding a used LSD diff and picking up 4.08 gears and swapping that in??

 

Terrible advice.