Well I hate to tell you guys but if you are using the fitting that came with it then you are NOT FLOWING ANY FUEL....Look at the picture...Then look at my set up..Notice the Blue 3 an fitting from Holly/NOS....Here is a test if you have the fitting it came with take off the fuel line comming from it and going to the Fuel selenoid and start the car...no fuel should come out at all...

 

YES, must replace fitting, 4AN-1/8NPT adapter. At least that is the case for my universal NOS wet kit which uses 4AN sizes for everything.

 

ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTIONS BELOW:
1. I GOT THE O-RINGS FROM THE NISSAN DEALERSHIP. THEY WERE LIKE $1.XX PER O-RING. JUST TELL THE PARTS GUY YOU WANT A FEW O-RINGS THAT ARE ON THE FUEL DAMPER (LOOKS LIKE A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR). HE SHOULD BE ABLE TO ASSIST. I WILL SEE IF i HAVE THE WRAPPERS FOR THE O-RINGS TOMORROW TO GET THE PART NUMBER.

2. I GOT THE SPACERS AND NEW BOLTS FOR THE FUEL ADAPTER AT HOME DEPOT IN THE HARDWARE SECTION. THERE ARE ALUMINUM AND PLASTIC SPACERS. I GOT THE PLASTIC ONES. YOU CAN GET THE RIGHT BOLT BY TAKING ONE OFF THE FUEL DAMPER (USE ANOTHER CAR TO GET TO HOME DEPOT) AND HOME DEPOT HAS A GUAGE ON THE WALL WHERE YOU CAN TRY SCREWING IN YOUR BOLT INTO DIFFERENT SIZE HOLES SO YOU CAN FIND OUT WHICH ONE YOURS IS. ONCE YOU GET THE DIAMETER, YOU'LL NEED TO GET 2 BOLTS THAT ARE AT LEAST 30MM. I USED 40MM. THEN IN THE SAME SECTION, THERE WILL BE SPACERS. THEY DIDN'T HAVE THE EXACT SIZE I NEEDED SO I GOT 1/2" OR 3/4" SPACERS (I FORGET). I HAD TO CUT ONE SPACER IN HALF WITH A HACK SAW AND USED 2 AND 1/2 SPACERS PER BOLT. I TAPED THE SPACERS TOGETHER WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE TO MAKE IT EASIER FOR THEM TO BE PUT ON. IF NOT, IT'S A PAIN TRYING TO GET THEM ON TO THE BOLTS.

3. I WAS LUCKY ENOUGH TO GET A ZEX NITROUS KIT AND IT CAME WITH THE NECESSARY FITTING. YOU CAN GO TO AN REGULAR AUTOPARTS STORE AND GO TO THE BRASS FITTING SECTION. YOU'LL NEED A -4AN to 1/8 NPT 90 Degree fitting and some thread sealant to seal the adapter to the SPX adapter. PLease be aware that my Zex kit required the -4AN fitting, but I heard NOS uses -6AN, so you may want to buy one of each just in case.

AND YES, AS I MENTIONED, THE FITTING THAT DOES COME WITH THE SPX will not spray fuel. I tested it before I shot it. That's how I knew. Lucky, i didn't spray without testing -> kaboom.

Call me with any questions, 954.557.3943, i'd be glad to help.

 

Also, if anyone is interested in some nice *** digital nitrous pressure guages, digital a/f guages, or digital aegt guages, let me know. I'll post some pics of my setup.

Also, there are automatic bottle warmers that adjust temp based on bottle pressure. usual bottle warmers only adjust based on temp. Another kewl gismo, there are a/f switches whereby if you are lean or rich it'll switch of the nitrous so you don't go kaboom.

let me know if anyone is interested in pics or more info.

 

NOS uses 6-AN ZEX used 4-AN thus the reason NOS makes the 6-AN to 4-AN Adapters FYI. I still don't understand the need for this peice though.

 

When I ordered the SPX-adapter it came with a specific brass fitting. This fitting leaked like crazy so I put some thread sealant on it. The leaking stopped. Then when i finished the nitrous kit install. I went to test the nitrous and fuel flow to make sure they were working as intended. The nitrous worked, but the fuel did not spray. I undid the spx and noticed that the brass fitting had a pin that required pressing to get fuel to flow. the steel braided lines that connect to it don't have the ability to press that pin to make the fuel flow and it didn't. So i had to get the brass fitting that just was open and didn't have a pin to press. Lucky the Zex kit came with one. Now I have no leaks and tons of available fuel.

If yours works then great, but you should make sure it really is before you go kaboom.

 

haha, I wish I still had N20 brother, if you only knew.

I'm just saying that why the adapter? I ran my ZEX kit into mid 12's with just a T Tap into the rubber fuel line and never dropped a single drop of fuel. Ran great.

 

just for one reason, so I can remove it when i go to the dealer. I have a pretty good where i can remove the zex kit in about 20 minutes and have it back in in another 30 minutes.

If the T Tap can do the same, then I would say to use that. I have just heard 2 things about the tap,
1) someone bursted the fuel line with a tap (i guess they didn't know how to install it righ).
2) I heard that using the adapter gives consistent flow because the damper ensures the correct pressure. If you tap behind the fuel damper i.e. T-Tap, then the pressure is inconsistent high pressure and low pressure fluxuations.

 

Good point about the fuel damper!!Max is just a MAD MAN!!!

 

Yea man, post some pictures, and prices too. Is there any way to how much nitrous is left in the bottle?

 

Ahhh, I always womdered, now someone honest enough to answer. Bursted line, no way not even with 125HP Jets.

I heard a friend of a friend of a baby's daddy said this or that ya know?

AnywayZ I just alwaya womdered and was voided warranty after about 1300 miles is all.

If you really want to study N20 though belerin let me educate you.

Did you know it leaves traces in your oil and they take samples from suspected "racers" during services just in case.

Where are your switches?

If you ever need engine work you better flush your oil real good, that's my tip of the day.

So this special adapter everyone has leaking all over the place is the ticket eh? Didn't know that, I just tapped and drove.

I am glad to finnnaly get an answer though because they were back ordered forever last year and no one would say why they were waiting , meanwhile I was going throught Nitto's and DR's etc at the track on the bottle

 

When the guage hits about 300 it's air (from experience)

 

Just to clarify, the pressure in the bottle goes down with every spray right. And the optimum pressure is like 900 psi right? Let's say I have a little nitrous left and its around 500psi without using the heater. The heater should bring the psi back up to 900 and when I turn off the heater, it should go back down to 500 right?

 

With a heater in 80-90 degrees each run will drop it from 900 to 700. When it drops to 500 with the heater on after a run stop purging, you have about 1.5 runs left

 

oh sorry I missed a part. When you turn off the system after racing turn off the heater and purge you line! It should read ZERO when not in use!

If you are low on N20 it will never go back to 900 with heater it will drop to around 300 and then just purge air, you're done till refill.

 

Didn't know about the oil thing, if they, in fact, actually do that. The people at my infiniti dealer can hardly change my windshield wiper blades without messin something up so I doubt they'll know (or think) to perform an oil analysis. However, it is something I'll do just in case. I'll change the oil if I bring it in.

My switches (bottle warmer, remote opener, guages, and nitrous activiation switch) are all togehter on a single unit :

http://dynotune.org/store/Scripts/pr...p?idproduct=88

It may be ugly, but it works. I attached a connecter so I can detach this switch. The dealer will see the empty connector.

The stealth install is so when I do to the dealer for maintenance, i.e. brake warranty fix, to get TSB/TSA's fixed, etc... they usually don't go snooping around for other things if I am there for something specific. Unless they really look and tear some things up, they won't be able to easily see my nitrous kit. Even the bottle is hidden. I leave the bottle in when I go to the dealer ship for TSB/TSA's. No problems yet and I am there everytime a new TSA is released.

If I were to blow something, I would obviously remove the kit and the I mounted everything will leave no traces. I didn't even mount the bottle brackets to the chassis (no drilling), I didn't run the nitrous lines outside the car, which means i didn't have to drill a whole to get the lines outside the car, I didn't even screw the Zex unit into the sheet metal as well. I made no permanent alterations to the car.

 

Sounds like a pretty unsafe and illegal track setup hehe.

Street Racer?

As long as you are happy that is all that matters but to me safety would be more important like mounted brackets and N20 venting to atmosphere.

Why go through all the trouble, just wait until the warranty is up. N20 is illegal except for at the track and your setup would not pass any type of NHRA tech in.

I am not trying to crap on your parade but this post is for others considering adding N20. Run the lines outside of the car, mount the bottle with solid brackets (2) and use a NHRA certified blow down tube.

Don't flame me k?

 

Bracket welded in suspension

 

final look, fug the dealers.

 

*protected* arming switch.