man, i have no traction. 2nd spins just like a washin machine. should i go and get an f'n sti or what? is it tires; is my open diff? i just don't know, and it sucks. i want a street car, too. no track queen; slicks r not an option. i realize i won't b doin any hardcore launchin on the street with rwd, but i atleast want my 2nd to stick. what should i do, guys? need help; i'm depressed. thanks.

 

it's all finesse...some spin on 1-2 shift can keep rpms right briefly for launch to next gear...it's called practice

 

How about some of these..
http://www.hopupracing.com/jicmaretrrod.html

 

Probably shouldn't have bought a base model. There are lots of things you can do, but it depends on how much money you want to spend.

 

i'm definitely not pissed about gettin a base. aftermarket parts will always b better than factory. let's get back to the subject though. at this point, i think moddin for traction is the way to go. no use in spendin on more power, if i can't handle what i got now. traction rods...new to me. sound good.

 

I dont know what base has to do with anything. I have a Touring model and it spins so violently when shifting into second even with VDC on so it just cuts power and is like stepping into wet concrete.

 

Well, the base model has an open diff, while the rest of the models have a limited slip.

So, one option is to get a clutch type limited slip (Nismo, Cusco, KAAZ, etc) and set it @ around 60% for street use.

Should be better than both the open and the viscous limited slip.

Might be more expensive than you want though.

-D'oh!

 

This will fix it!!! http://www.performancenissanparts.co...products_id=59 Also if you end up buying a diff... make sure it's complete with the end shafts, brgs and seals... like the Nismo unit!! I love mine...

 

the enthusiast is without, also. if it's gonna help, i'll probly do it though.

 

Have you ever weighed your Base model? Not what it says on the door but w/o driver on a scale? I heard they were the lightest and have always wondered. If not no biggie. Thanks.

 

Sorry, the base model is the only one with an open diff. I've got an enthusiast. The diff D'oh mentioned will definitely fix your spinning problem.

 

Enthusiast has factory LSD
ZZ

 

yeah, u're right. it's been awhile since i cared. so an lsd should b the 1st thing for traction then? thanks.

 

I have a Touring model and it doesnt do squat for me. I still spin like crazy.

 

the stock lsd is not like an aftermarket one though.

 

But if both wheels are spinning, what good does it do? The LSD helps shift power from one wheel to the other right? Great for turns but not as much on the straights...

Try replacing your wheels and put some 285's in the rear with some better rubber (Toyo/etc).

Also, not to be asking stupid things but are you rev matching for your shifts as best you can?

or maybe blame the grounding kit

 

yeah, some people say an lsd won't help that much, but i don't know. worth a shot, i guess. rev matchin my upshifts? didn't know that was possible.

 

the LSD will make the tires spin at the same speed; or atleast try to get near there. they dont want one to spin without the other. this means without it; only one has to break loose. not ideal. not to say 2 cant break too.

as for easy solution; let the revs drop between shifts... maybe Im wrong; but if you doing 5000RPM in 2nd gear and floor it; your not gonna spin anything; right? you need to let the revs drop a bit more; and let the clutch out real smooth so theres no jolts to the wheels. your probably trying to powershift by slipping the clutch during shifts; that is more power than 235 all season tread in the winter will handle.

above all I wouldnt blame the car as it stands... sports cars were almost all rwd for the past 40 years; and no one ever had a problem running way faster than the Z with it; and on tires way thinner and less advanced than even the shitty stock tread.

 

Thing is that the LSD + install is pretty expensive I'd imagine.

Well you just need to know that you need to let the rpms drop about 1000rpm before engaging the clutch into 2nd. If you do it real quick, you'll get the rear spinning since the engine is moving faster than the trans so you get the sudden surge which will break it loose. If you time it right you probably won't spin lest it's wet. Course it will slow your drag times down but most of the time who cares On 3->4/etc it don't matter much.
I think a flywheel might help that since it's supposed to quicken the rev drop.

 

A less expensive fix (than a LSD) is probably just going to wider, stickier tires.

With the open diff, only one wheel needs to break loose for you to loose traction. With a viscous limited slip (like the stock Z's) one wheel needs to break loose, but as soon as it starts to slip the diff will begin to lock and transfer torque to the second wheel. This will then hopefully get the spinning wheel back under control as well. With a clutch limited slip, as soon as you start applying torque to the diff, it will start to lock the wheels together. In this case you will need to break both tires loose at the same time.

However, even with a limited slip diff you can still break the tires loose by shocking the drivetrain with rough shifts and aggressive throttle. Therefore, the cheapest fix of all is to modify your driving style and instead of shifting real quick and slamming back on the throttle, just roll back into the throttle and let the clutch out quickly but smoothly. If you can make a quick, smooth shift you will be much less likely to break the tires loose.

-D'oh!