Built Shortblock Assembly Questions
#22
It runs! I fired it up Tuesday night and let it run for a few minutes. Sounds good, no leaks, no problems at all.
Now its time to break it in. I'm going to follow IPP's reccomendation and change the oil after 50 miles and 3000 miles, no boost for the first ~750 miles.
Now its time to break it in. I'm going to follow IPP's reccomendation and change the oil after 50 miles and 3000 miles, no boost for the first ~750 miles.
#26
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How did you see the rear seal was leaking? was it leaking that much that it drained out of the transmission joint already?
I've done 3 different engines from re-freshing in my car and a few others (and hundreds of bike engines but those are different) and never had a new rear main leak.
I've done 3 different engines from re-freshing in my car and a few others (and hundreds of bike engines but those are different) and never had a new rear main leak.
#27
There is oil coming from between the engine and trans. So I am petty sure its the rear main.
based on the numerous others that have had the same problems (https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...seal-woes.html) there is a high probability that I effed up the installation. I was careful when I put the seal in, but I didn't practice 10 times like others have suggested. I didn't know people referred to it as "the devil seal" or I would have payed closer attention to it.
based on the numerous others that have had the same problems (https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...seal-woes.html) there is a high probability that I effed up the installation. I was careful when I put the seal in, but I didn't practice 10 times like others have suggested. I didn't know people referred to it as "the devil seal" or I would have payed closer attention to it.
#29
Sounds like you got lucky!
I got the engine back out and pulled took off the trans/clutch/flywheel. It looks like the seal is leaking but it's a little hard to tell exactly where, there is a thin film of oil everywhere because it was getting on the back side of the flywheel and slinging on everything. Which also leads me to believe that it is the seal against the crank that it leaking and not the crescent moon shape oil pan deal, otherwise it would just run down and never get on the flywheel. Honestly the seal looks perfect from the outside, I don't see anything obvious like a folded lip or anything. I'm going to pull the pan off tonight and investigate further.
I got the engine back out and pulled took off the trans/clutch/flywheel. It looks like the seal is leaking but it's a little hard to tell exactly where, there is a thin film of oil everywhere because it was getting on the back side of the flywheel and slinging on everything. Which also leads me to believe that it is the seal against the crank that it leaking and not the crescent moon shape oil pan deal, otherwise it would just run down and never get on the flywheel. Honestly the seal looks perfect from the outside, I don't see anything obvious like a folded lip or anything. I'm going to pull the pan off tonight and investigate further.
Last edited by mx594; 08-27-2012 at 08:59 AM.
#32
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Are you sure you bought a nissan one? The nissan rear main comes already pressed into the aluminum housing so you shouldn't need to press the seal into the housing and risk damaging it.
Iirc all the rear mains I have ordered from nissan were black as well but I would have to check the extras I have in the garage to confirm this.
Iirc all the rear mains I have ordered from nissan were black as well but I would have to check the extras I have in the garage to confirm this.
#33
Are you sure you bought a nissan one? The nissan rear main comes already pressed into the aluminum housing so you shouldn't need to press the seal into the housing and risk damaging it.
Iirc all the rear mains I have ordered from nissan were black as well but I would have to check the extras I have in the garage to confirm this.
Iirc all the rear mains I have ordered from nissan were black as well but I would have to check the extras I have in the garage to confirm this.
#34
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With it already pressed in that's a strange area to fail. I think you are the one to get lucky with that thing! It would have had to snagged something just right to fold over like that during install. Glad you got it figured out but it sucks to go through all that work again.
#35
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My oem one and the new oem seal were both brown. The photo above is exactly what mine looked like when I removed it. I still believe the lip rolled when it was installed.
Makes me wish i had a HR as apparently you do not need to remove the upper oil pan to replace the rear main seal from what i have been told
Makes me wish i had a HR as apparently you do not need to remove the upper oil pan to replace the rear main seal from what i have been told
#37
With it already pressed in that's a strange area to fail. I think you are the one to get lucky with that thing! It would have had to snagged something just right to fold over like that during install. Glad you got it figured out but it sucks to go through all that work again.
#38
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My oem one and the new oem seal were both brown. The photo above is exactly what mine looked like when I removed it. I still believe the lip rolled when it was installed.
Makes me wish i had a HR as apparently you do not need to remove the upper oil pan to replace the rear main seal from what i have been told
Makes me wish i had a HR as apparently you do not need to remove the upper oil pan to replace the rear main seal from what i have been told
I've done all mine on the engine stand. It gets a little tricky with the stand in the way but I didn't feel it was the hardest thing I have dealt with on a car.