Built Shortblock Assembly Questions
07-22-2012, 05:13 PM
#1
Built Shortblock Assembly Questions
OK I am a noob when it comes to engine building, and I have some basic questions. I bought a built shortblock from IPP. I have the old engine fully disassembled, and the heads are off. The heads are coming off a perfectly good ~40K mile engine and I have no reason to believe they aren't flat. I am basically ready to start re-assembling with the new block. So here come the questions:
1. I assume it is standard practice to get the heads cleaned, checked for flatness and checked for leaks, is that true? I know I can check the flatness myself, but it seems like the cleaning would need to be done in a hot tank, which I do not have, and I certainly don't have any way to check the valves for leaks. Can any engine shop do this? What does it cost typically?
2. When I go to re-assemble the lifters and cams and whatnot, is there some type of assembly lube I should use, or just coat everything in regular engine oil?
3. Is there anything else I should do before I start putting it back together? I have L19's and HR headgaskets, a revup oil pump and an ATI fluidamper.
Thanks!
1. I assume it is standard practice to get the heads cleaned, checked for flatness and checked for leaks, is that true? I know I can check the flatness myself, but it seems like the cleaning would need to be done in a hot tank, which I do not have, and I certainly don't have any way to check the valves for leaks. Can any engine shop do this? What does it cost typically?
2. When I go to re-assemble the lifters and cams and whatnot, is there some type of assembly lube I should use, or just coat everything in regular engine oil?
3. Is there anything else I should do before I start putting it back together? I have L19's and HR headgaskets, a revup oil pump and an ATI fluidamper.
Thanks!
07-22-2012, 05:49 PM
#2
I would do a lot more research or just have someone build the motor for you since it seems like you are unsure on a lot of things. It's costing me $2200 for assembly and machine work for my block. Probably cost little less for you since my work is probably much more involved than what you're looking for.
07-22-2012, 10:05 PM
#3
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1) u dont have to...but your gonna run into problems. Take the heads apart and havr them machined and decked. Any machine shop should be able to do this. Shouldnt be any more than 100 per head for what your asking.
2) there are assembly lubes u can buy. You can use regular oil if you want.
3) is the block machined for the hr head gaskets? (If its not an hr engine)
2) there are assembly lubes u can buy. You can use regular oil if you want.
3) is the block machined for the hr head gaskets? (If its not an hr engine)
07-23-2012, 06:50 AM
#4
1) u dont have to...but your gonna run into problems. Take the heads apart and havr them machined and decked. Any machine shop should be able to do this. Shouldnt be any more than 100 per head for what your asking.
2) there are assembly lubes u can buy. You can use regular oil if you want.
3) is the block machined for the hr head gaskets? (If its not an hr engine)
2) there are assembly lubes u can buy. You can use regular oil if you want.
3) is the block machined for the hr head gaskets? (If its not an hr engine)
So those assembly lubes are OK to use on lifters, cams etc? I figured they would be fine but I just wanted to make sure.
The block is from IPP and Kyle said that he machined it for the HR headgaskets.
07-23-2012, 07:11 AM
#5
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I always checked if my valves are sealing up by filling the runners with washer fluid . If it leaked out then I know the valves are not sealing, i always lap all my valves anyway after cleaning the heads.
Also you should check valve lash if you going to use aftermarket cams or any time you take the head apart. Everything is in the FSM. It's nothing hard
Also you should check valve lash if you going to use aftermarket cams or any time you take the head apart. Everything is in the FSM. It's nothing hard
07-23-2012, 07:52 AM
#6
I called a local shop today (www.c-techperformance.com) and they are going to clean, vacuum test, and resurface the heads for $170 for the pair.
I'm keeping all the stock valvetrain but I will check the valve lash per the FSM. Thanks for the heads up.
I'm keeping all the stock valvetrain but I will check the valve lash per the FSM. Thanks for the heads up.
07-23-2012, 12:11 PM
#7
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I am going to call some shops today and see what they can do. If they are flat, can they be cleaned without pulling all the valves? Or should I just pull all the valves and replace the seals anyway?
So those assembly lubes are OK to use on lifters, cams etc? I figured they would be fine but I just wanted to make sure.
The block is from IPP and Kyle said that he machined it for the HR headgaskets.
So those assembly lubes are OK to use on lifters, cams etc? I figured they would be fine but I just wanted to make sure.
The block is from IPP and Kyle said that he machined it for the HR headgaskets.
Yes u can use assembly lube on the journals of the cams for install or oil you need to cover the whole cam not sure what you mean by lifter.
Did u ask ipp if the head needs to be machines for the hr gasket to? Im not sure if they do or not
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07-23-2012, 12:56 PM
#8
07-23-2012, 09:05 PM
#11
after you do the lash and its good then coat it in a good assembly lube, personally i use comp cams, redline or any other manufacturer is good too its just thick white lithium even the house brand at autozone will work. cover the lobes though as well as journals. (journals before you bolt em in, lobes after checking lash) make sure you have the caps indexed for both location and direction or your going have issues(mine if put on backwards had nasty lips those things are definitely not bored on center.)
DO NOT use just regular oil it might work for some but its asking for problems, our cams might be overhead cam but they are a identical action to a solid flat tappet, which are notorious for destroying themselves if not used with proper lube on start up, just ask engine builders who built engines in the late 90's with flat tappet cams when everything moved to roller tappet.
DO NOT use just regular oil it might work for some but its asking for problems, our cams might be overhead cam but they are a identical action to a solid flat tappet, which are notorious for destroying themselves if not used with proper lube on start up, just ask engine builders who built engines in the late 90's with flat tappet cams when everything moved to roller tappet.
07-23-2012, 10:05 PM
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after you do the lash and its good then coat it in a good assembly lube, personally i use comp cams, redline or any other manufacturer is good too its just thick white lithium even the house brand at autozone will work. cover the lobes though as well as journals. (journals before you bolt em in, lobes after checking lash) make sure you have the caps indexed for both location and direction or your going have issues(mine if put on backwards had nasty lips those things are definitely not bored on center.)
DO NOT use just regular oil it might work for some but its asking for problems, our cams might be overhead cam but they are a identical action to a solid flat tappet, which are notorious for destroying themselves if not used with proper lube on start up, just ask engine builders who built engines in the late 90's with flat tappet cams when everything moved to roller tappet.
DO NOT use just regular oil it might work for some but its asking for problems, our cams might be overhead cam but they are a identical action to a solid flat tappet, which are notorious for destroying themselves if not used with proper lube on start up, just ask engine builders who built engines in the late 90's with flat tappet cams when everything moved to roller tappet.
07-25-2012, 06:07 AM
#16
It is not rocket science, you are correct. But asking simple questions as you stated shows some people that you may not have knowledge to be doing this and last thing most people want to see, is something going wrong from lack of knowledge. That is all, don't get too offended from it.
07-25-2012, 10:25 AM
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It is not rocket science, you are correct. But asking simple questions as you stated shows some people that you may not have knowledge to be doing this and last thing most people want to see, is something going wrong from lack of knowledge. That is all, don't get too offended from it.
i would take it as advice to help keep you from losing money. were just tryin to help
07-29-2012, 09:19 PM
#19
sorry been messing with my POS just experience, modern motor oil is a rather poor lubricant due to emissions requirements. our cams are essentially flat tappets which had issues in the 90's due to reducing anti friction materials. its gotten better by using harder metals, and sorta ok anti friction materials now but still no reason for excess abuse, plus the modern additives arnt close to as good hence why any racing team still uses the older formulations.
Last edited by jerryd87; 07-29-2012 at 09:20 PM.
