DE Motor Questions
is it just me, or does it seem like there are 2 very different DE's out there?lol call me crazy but bare with me. i have just been noticing that the stock dyno numbers vary widely..with a range of 20-25 whp i have to think there is something i dont know about. can someone shed some light on this for me?
i was thinking that but a 25whp difference is pretty big man. ive seen also some Z's with full bolt ons(some type of true dual cat back, testpipes, headers, intake, intake spacer) and an Uprev put down 250-260..then others with the same recipe of parts put down 270-275whp...
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yea i agree! i do enjoy the ride, and for what its worth im sure my car is on the high side of this curve.lol. just wanting to see if there was something that i was unaware of and become more educated...what would you say is normal whp ratings?
my friend is a vtec fan boy, and he claims that the difference in Hondas is never more than 5hp. He works at a shop with a dyno, so he should see a lot and that's his criticism of Nissan.
I suppose you could argue that it's a sign of inconsistent qc... I'm not sure.
I suppose you could argue that it's a sign of inconsistent qc... I'm not sure.
I agree,different dynos will produce difference in readings.
From my experience,the list of bolts ons discussed usually
get readings in the 250-260 WHP range.In the 270 range
is questionable.
Don't think you are gonna "feel" that extra ten anywhere but in your mind.
From my experience,the list of bolts ons discussed usually
get readings in the 250-260 WHP range.In the 270 range
is questionable.
Don't think you are gonna "feel" that extra ten anywhere but in your mind.
Last edited by JCITY; Aug 10, 2012 at 04:42 AM.
Different conditions, different dynos, different dyno operators, different mods, and some variation across engines and transmissions. Even if you go back to the same dyno you might drop 20 whp with heat soak on a hot day. Just the way it is. For comparing on the Internet, a Dynojet with STD or SAE correction is the most reproducible mechanism for comparing power levels.
Last edited by rcdash; Aug 10, 2012 at 07:07 AM.
I was talking about same dyno with multiple stock 350Z's on it. Apparently there is a higher standard deviation from the average than some other vehicles.
This might be what the OP was talking about as well.
This might be what the OP was talking about as well.
as was i...the difference in hpon a nodded car can definitelty be attributed to the hardware, but it reAlly stuck out to me on stock cars..some guys get in the 220's and some get up to 235 - 240up. stock
Exact factory engines side by side can swing as much as 10-15% in power due to part fit and break in procedure.
That is with every car on the market. It's even worse on sportbikes that I have dynoed straight off the show room floor.
That is with every car on the market. It's even worse on sportbikes that I have dynoed straight off the show room floor.
He basically does multiple red line pulls on a bike that was in its box an hour earlier, whereas Kawasaki says don't exceed 6000rpm for the first thousand miles, or so. Which is a pain on a bike with a 16500rpm redline.
That reminds me. (Off-topic) You don't subscribe to that bike break-in procedure you see online where the guy just bags the shat out of it on a dyno with 0.1 miles on it, do you?
He basically does multiple red line pulls on a bike that was in its box an hour earlier, whereas Kawasaki says don't exceed 6000rpm for the first thousand miles, or so. Which is a pain on a bike with a 16500rpm redline.
He basically does multiple red line pulls on a bike that was in its box an hour earlier, whereas Kawasaki says don't exceed 6000rpm for the first thousand miles, or so. Which is a pain on a bike with a 16500rpm redline.
After I refresh a new race engine I warm it in the pits on first start then send my rider out for 3 50% pace laps. When they get back I swap out the oil and make sure everything is holding together then I send them back out for another 5 laps of 100% everything they have. After that I swap the oil again and it is ready for the race. For street engines I usually give them 20 miles of varying rpm with no limit to how high it goes except to keep it out of the red. After that I swap oil and it's ready do whatever they want. So far 13 years of this and I havent' had a failure yet. They tend to dyno on the high end of what they should produce as well.
manufacturer's havnt changed there break in procedures since they have released them. ill admit the z is the first "hard" break in procedure ive done but no issues. sure other things but not the engine, 5 pulls in each gear varying throttle from 50% for first up to 100% for last for about 20 seconds each pull then changed the oil at 50 miles and 500. third one will prob be end of next month for 1500 miles and ill keep it at 3k after that. car is running flawlessly and the theory actually makes sense on why to break it in like that.
^^ all about seating piston rings properly.. yes indeed...
i hear the hard break in is the way to go as well.. Id imagine very important for buit enignes w FI to reduce sealing issues and blow by etc etc..
i hear the hard break in is the way to go as well.. Id imagine very important for buit enignes w FI to reduce sealing issues and blow by etc etc..







