Hey STL350Z or any electrical guys,

Having issues but not cause of the write up it was great.

My issue is my car still overheats after installing the fans months later.

I spill free funnel burped the system, but the divers side fan doesn't turn on at all.

Only the passenger fan is operating either when it gets hot or when I turn on the AC.

I switched the connections assuming the drivers fan would work but once again the passenger side is the only one that works exactly the same way as I previously stated.

Even if gauge for temp goes above half way still no drivers fan.

Any clue why?

Wiring, bad fan, or bad relays?

I would assume wiring is good since swapping plugs didn't change anything...

 

Are you using the small fans that came with it? I had to get spal fans to keep my temps down.

 

The drivers side just refuses to kick on at all even if temp gauge rises above normal to almost max temps.

And it did it today and temps are 95 degrees outside today...it should have had both fans running since it was idling and overheating with AC on.

Could I have a bad temperature sensor and does the sensor actuate the second fan to come on could that be the issue I am having or am I way off about the temp sensor?

 

Either the fan motor is blown, of the fuse is blown...

check the fuses...there are 2 separate 40 amp fuses for each fan in the fuse box by the battery....

Also, as a shortcut, if you turn the AC on with the engine running both fans should turn on immediately no matter what the water temp is...

 

OMG YOU HAVE GOT TO BE ****ING KIDDING ME

In my previous complaints about the tabs on the shroud not allowing it to press up against the radiator flush (post#39), the rubber seal that you put around the shroud came off and got all wrapped around fan #2 and killed it.

I finally got so fed up last night after rewiring twice to verify I did it right and second guessing if I remember fan #2 ever working I pulled the shroud and found the rubber seal in there.

So at 2am I went to Amazon and ordered a new 12in fan overnight to swap out.

Thanks for all your help guys now I know the entire cooling system including electrical inside and out on this car cause of this LOL.

 

I give full marks to the wiring instructions. Worked right the first time. Thanks to the OP for posting.

 

I agree! after many hard track days this wiring method is proven to work!

 

So is there a diff shroud that works with the spals? I did some research a while ago and saw that forged used to offer a shroud with one 14" and one smaller.

Anyone knows what the latest and greatest May be?

Thanks

 

there is a misu or mizu shroud out there but that may have to be cut to accommodate larger fans as well.

 

screw MIZU. Horrible fitment. Fools out west must be to high to mount tabs right. Had to pay extra to get mine rewelded. Mizu never contacted me back about it months ago.

 

In the Z, I would only change the radiator and keep stock fans and shroud. People are pushing 500hp+ with just a bigger radiator and still running cool. Unless you have a space issue.

I made around 550whp with stock cooling system and never overheated. Even at 100-115F.

 

I changed the fan shroud to have a metal shroud (to powder coat) and the get rid of the bulky OEM.

 

Well.....I had a fan go out. Got pissed at stock shroud.......cut it where I thought wouldn't matter....but now something is off. Running a bit hotter than it was. Probably the AMazon fan motor I used (got it in two working days compare to week for OEM) Knew it was temporary.

Tearing into things this week and wanted to upgrade. Waiting for Z1 to respond to email....

 

I just installed the Mishimoto radiator and fan shroud, and the wiring diagram here worked perfectly.

 

what do you do with the wires that you did not solder? for example, the green and black wires for fan 2.

 

Tagging this on my to do list

 

So it looks like Mishimoto changed the wiring up for thier fans


Not sure if I should install them this way or use my own harness cut and splice

 

Hey all, I've got to dig up this thread to find some help. I haven't been able to drive my car for 2 weeks.

I have a fan setup like all the ones pictured with 2 SPAL fans wired the way described in this thread, but I'm having issues. Both fans are getting power, the driver side comes on with the AC, etc. So it seems to be working right. But the problem is my car is in "limp" mode or something. I can't drive over 2500 rpm above 35 mph.

What do I need to do to fix this? I've tried rechecking the wiring and swapping the driver and passenger plugs, tried disconnecting my battery, tried clearing codes (it didn't even throw one), and even reflashing my ECU with UpRev. I'm out of ideas and about to go back to the factory fans if I can't figure this out.

Thanks for any help guys.

 

SO you think the fan install has something to do with your car going into limp mode? Or was the limp mode there before the instal and you thought the fans would solve it?

Don't for get to search other areas of this sight for info on getting the car out of limp mode. FI might not be the best place to find that info. expand a bit.

good luck

 

The car was running just fine while driving it daily. I noticed the passenger fan wasn't turning on while the temps got up to 230, so I went ahead and threw these SPAL fans in that had been sitting around waiting.

I get them installed and changed my oil at the same time (didn't think about disconnecting the battery). Then I pull out onto the highway and can't drive over 2500rpm over 35mph in any gear.

Whatever happened was onset by something I did that day. I checked all the radiator fan fuses I could find. Not sure what's going on. I'll look into the limp mode threads, but I was hoping someone might know off the top of their head here.