The dealer has nothing to do with warranty! They are just getting paid or not from Nissan for doing any work.

They do have an obligation to inform Nissan of anything abnormal they find...............but it's up to Nissan what they will pay for.

Dealers don't like to get charged back for warranty work that was not authorized. Up to owner to deal with regional Nissan Zone employees to dispute dealer findings and persuade them [Nissan]to pay for work.


Important to understand exactly how these things work!
The service department is just where the dealer sold parts get installed.........sold to you or resold to Nissan.

Dealer and dealer techs don't like warranty work because the number of paid hours is lower for the exact same job since Nissan as the service department's largest individual customer gets an hourly discount........fewer paid hours.

Many times in special circumstances Nissan sends the parts so the dealership doesn't get its normal 100% markup..........hate warranty work you can starve to death without a balance of customer paid work.

 

this is SO beyond being true its not funny - the marketing guys are doing a number on you

 

the law is called the magnusson-moss act i believe. i have had my pulleys on for about 6-7 months with no problems whatsoever. i have not done any oil analysis but my car runs better and better every day!

 

Yep, the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act: http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/...#Magnuson-Moss

 

Wow...I almost fell out of my chair on that one. NISMO hasnt engineering anything that I am aware of....they outsource all of it...other companies make the products for them, and Nismo slaps their badge on it. Nissan wants you buy expensive Nismo stuff under the guise of "warranty protection". Whatever...thats a bunch of crap in my book...very lame.

 

I've had pulleys on several of my cars which I owned "for the long haul". So did a lot of people with mustangs/camaros/lightnings/etc. I have never heard of any internal damage due to a pulley system and I could probably think of 30 people I know who used them "for the long haul" just like me. Pulleys have been available for at least 15 years for many many cars. That in itself, should tell you something............ tried and true reliability.

Nitrous/TT/superchargers have also been around forever, and they are also well known timebombs "for the long haul". Many many many a person has blown their motor forcing extra HP. (I'm not saying always, but it is proven to greatly increase the chance). The same would be widely known about pulleys, if it were the case.

In my other cars, I installed them solely for the performance. In the Z, I installed them to correct the rough idle and sputtering accelleration that the car was cursed with at the factory. The few extra ponies were just a bonus.

 

the pulley is so easy to install and uninstall. Just yank it out if something goes wrong. a nissan mechanic won't even know it is an aftermarket pulley unless you tell him or you purchase a non black one.

Just don't put the UR stickers on your car and don't be flashy. It takes about two hours to install a pulley (assuming working on your back)

it takes a little more determination with the auto trannies but not much.

 

Anybody had any experience dealing with a dealer in regards to this act? I have. Put it this way, they have more money and power than you do and you need to pick your fights wisely.

I had a CV boot go out at 15K miles on a car that I lowered(2001 Dogde Stratus coupe R/T). Part was $15+ about and hour of labor to replace it. Dealer refused to fix it, or even look at it, which meant taking the wheel off even after I presented them with Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act. They told me my car was lowered and wouldn't touch it. I ended up replacing it after they told me they would void my entire warranty based on the aftermarket parts I had on the car (headers, exhaust, and intake). When replacing it, I found it was an assembly error as the clamp was installed incorrectly and pinched the boot and caused the tear.

To continue, at 32K miles, my flex plate in my tranny broke and destroyed the tranny, put a hole in the cast oil pan of the motor, and cracked the CV joint. At this time I had the following parts on the car - headers, intake, full exhaust with testpipe, underdrive crank pulley, bored throttlebody, stiffened motormounts, and super-AFR. Took my car, actually towed it, to another dealership (obviously didn't want to take the car to the dealer that refused the CV boot repair). They said they would look at it, but if the damage was caused by an aftermarket part in the tranny - they thought I might have put in a higher stall torque converter or ne flex plate, that I would be responsible for the the 4.5 hours of tear down of the car. Long story short they brought in a person from chrysler to examine the flex plate and he determined that the flex plate was a manufacturer defect and should NEVER break regardless of increased horsepower due to aftermarket parts. (my car was putting about an additional 40hp to the crank - dyno proven). Dealership ended up replacing everything under warranty. I saw the repair sheet and parts alone exceeded $6K.

What have I learned? Each dealership is different and you need to be smart about where you bring your car to. The Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act really doesn't have much weight. Read your warranty carefully as most address the issue of modifcations and aftermarket parts. I am modding my Z, but will be cautious and smart about where I bring the car for warranty work if it needs it.

 

I have a question for all the lightened, underdrive pully "doubters" out there.

Why don't you guys ever worry about lightened flywheels?? They do basically the same thing that a lightened crank pully does. The only difference is they are on the other end of the crankshaft. If pullys are suspected to hurt the motor, shouldn't lightened flywheels be suspected too?????

 

I think so. I think Jason from performane nissan said that the Z's motor is balanced without the the clutch or flywheel attached and as a reslut, the crank pulley shouldn't have an affect on it.

 

Besides, theoretically if the pulley or the flywheel is perfectly balanced, it shouldn't hurt it for any reason that I can think of. Now, if it isn't balanced perfectly, that is another reason.

You know, you would think that not only these things add power, but they also help fuel economy etc since the engine doesn't have to work so hard. Same with ligther clutch, wheels, tires and everything else that has a rotational mass attached to the engine directly. But then again, this is all in theory.

 

Mods that reduce the drag on the motor have nothing but benefits, better performance, economy, and less strain on the motor, im ordering me up a set as soon as a finish my exhaust

 

Exactly correct on the flywheel - I ahve said this so many times it hurts

 

Same thoughts here. If the larger diameter flywheel is lightened by 10-14 pounds, isn't that quite a bit more weight difference and possible imbalance than just a smaller diameter and lighter OEM pulley?

 

Yes...but people just LOVE to obsess over stupid little things like a crank pully.

 

Ok... maybe a stupid question, but doesn't a set of those pullies weakens the electrical system?(perhaps air coditioning)!

 

There is no such thing as a stupid question, we're all in the learning process

That would be the "underdrive" accessory pulliy(ies) that you are talking about. The one we are specifically talking about here is a light weight crank pully.

 

Can anyone post some or all of that article on the pulley test?

 

Actually, the unorthodox crank pulley is light weight as well as underdrives. It was my impression that ASP racing was working on a lightened, stock size crank pulley.

In regards to the question about the electrical system and AC, you should only worry about the electrial side of things if you have a large stereo, and in that case, you would most likely have capacitors that would solve any potential problems. In regards to the AC, you shouldn't notice any difference.

 

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