Hd slave cylinder fail
05-15-2013, 09:31 PM
#1
Hd slave cylinder fail
Well, as I type this I am stranded yet again on my way from work. The HD slave cylinder I bought seems to be defected. I purchased a JWT clutch and flywheel kit along with a zspeed slave to take the added stress. After multiple times bleeding the car, the clutch pedal will not stay stiff for more than 15 minutes. I discovered the bleeder nipple for the slave which comes with SS lines was actually leaking fluid and sucking in air. Hence the car loosing clutch pressure. We did a quick fix to stop the nipple from bleeding but to no avail. The car still sucks in air which leads me think that somewhere on the slave there is a leak (heavy duty my ****). So now with less than a week to break in my clutch before a track event on the 26th, I sit on the side of the road stranded typing this thread. Some other threads say it could be the master cylinder having a buildup of gunk would be the cause of this. Some say the pedal isn't adjusted right. But before the install of the JWT clutch/flywheel and the slave my car was operating just fine. All work was done my a nissan gtr tech and the car is a 2007 350z with 39,000 miles. Someone please shed some light.
I contacted concept z performance about the issue, but there seems to be some red tape all the sudden for getting the part warranted. Great guys, good service when it's sales centered. I'm waiting to see what happens.
If anyone can help me out please do. I'll be so thankful
I contacted concept z performance about the issue, but there seems to be some red tape all the sudden for getting the part warranted. Great guys, good service when it's sales centered. I'm waiting to see what happens.
If anyone can help me out please do. I'll be so thankful
05-16-2013, 10:08 AM
#4
The bad part is I had to pay $50 to the tow truck guy and another $50 to parking enforcement since my car was parked on the cleaning side of the street today (had no choice). So I am already $100 in the hole over this slave.
05-16-2013, 10:36 AM
#5
Registered User
I would say its not bled and adjusted correctly, if there is a hole for air to leak through then you would also be leaking fluid as well. If youre not losing fluid then you don't have a leak.
But, definitely talk to Joe at Zspeed, the maker of HD slave and knows everything about it, but as you said he is at Zdays.
Same thing youre experiencing happened to me a few years ago, even have the bleeder lookin like its leaking a bit which really isn't it just looks that way for a bit , I just had to mess with the pedal adjustment ( turn clockwise bit by bit) and had to have someone hold the clutch pedal while I crack the bleeder open just once whenever the pedal started to drop a bit, after 2 -3 times of that she was good
A big thing that helped me recently and I recommend is buying the HD Master from Zspeed, bleeding takes literally less than 5 minutes and the lines don't have the stock check valves that make it such a pain to begin with.
But, definitely talk to Joe at Zspeed, the maker of HD slave and knows everything about it, but as you said he is at Zdays.
Same thing youre experiencing happened to me a few years ago, even have the bleeder lookin like its leaking a bit which really isn't it just looks that way for a bit , I just had to mess with the pedal adjustment ( turn clockwise bit by bit) and had to have someone hold the clutch pedal while I crack the bleeder open just once whenever the pedal started to drop a bit, after 2 -3 times of that she was good
A big thing that helped me recently and I recommend is buying the HD Master from Zspeed, bleeding takes literally less than 5 minutes and the lines don't have the stock check valves that make it such a pain to begin with.
05-16-2013, 10:43 AM
#6
I just recieved an email from coz at concept z.
He finally had a response from zspeed.
Got a response from ZSP,
"Standard 3/8" 24 thread brake bleeder screw can be had at any parts stores, I am at zdayz for the week. Normally not leaking just residual in the screw".
He finally had a response from zspeed.
Got a response from ZSP,
"Standard 3/8" 24 thread brake bleeder screw can be had at any parts stores, I am at zdayz for the week. Normally not leaking just residual in the screw".
05-16-2013, 10:46 AM
#7
Registered User
lol what I tried to say.
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05-16-2013, 10:53 AM
#8
However, we would actually clean out the bleeder nipple each time we the system was bleed and after pumping the clutch you would see fluid yet again. The process we used to bleed was aided by a bleeder machine that creates pressure in the system to flush everything out. Once we flushed it, the pedal was hard and very springy. Give it 15 minutes or a short drive around and it's began to get mushy all the sudden. The tech at nissan and my mechanic buddies all agree, there must be some where near the slave that is allowing for air to gradually be sucked in
05-16-2013, 11:16 AM
#9
Looked around on various forums and I found this in a g forum.
"Long story short, two separate but simultaneous problems were causing all of my clutch woes. First there was a leak in my clutch line. I suspect that it was very tiny at first, allowing air to seep into the line but not big enough to cause a noticeable leak. However after continual clutch bleeding and usage, it grew until I began to notice some fluid around the heat shield wrapping (or whatever it is) surrounding the line underneath the car. Eventually it affected the fluid level in the reservoir requiring me to refill every week or so. After replacing the line however, my pedal was still soft at the top, requiring me to pull it up with my foot after every shift. Then I noticed the second, less-obvious problem. The lock nut behind the adjustment rod had wiggled loose, causing the little rod to turn freely and drop my pedal (just like the clutch pedal adjustment mod ppl do to make the engagement point lower). So I adjusted it again by turning the rod the opposite direction and my pedal returned sharply to the top every time. A week later the pedal started getting soft again, so I went to adjust it and found the nut had wiggled loose again. A little blue loctite and my clutch pedal worries are gone for good!"
"Long story short, two separate but simultaneous problems were causing all of my clutch woes. First there was a leak in my clutch line. I suspect that it was very tiny at first, allowing air to seep into the line but not big enough to cause a noticeable leak. However after continual clutch bleeding and usage, it grew until I began to notice some fluid around the heat shield wrapping (or whatever it is) surrounding the line underneath the car. Eventually it affected the fluid level in the reservoir requiring me to refill every week or so. After replacing the line however, my pedal was still soft at the top, requiring me to pull it up with my foot after every shift. Then I noticed the second, less-obvious problem. The lock nut behind the adjustment rod had wiggled loose, causing the little rod to turn freely and drop my pedal (just like the clutch pedal adjustment mod ppl do to make the engagement point lower). So I adjusted it again by turning the rod the opposite direction and my pedal returned sharply to the top every time. A week later the pedal started getting soft again, so I went to adjust it and found the nut had wiggled loose again. A little blue loctite and my clutch pedal worries are gone for good!"
05-27-2013, 08:23 AM
#11
Glad you got it figured out, Did you read this part on the instruction sheet included with the HD Slave kit "A new clutch master cylinder is recommended"
Air was being introduced by a old worn/dirty master cylinder.
There is also a very simple bleeding procedure, also in the instructions. At the end of the sheet it also says "if pedal does not return fully" a new master cylinder will be needed.
Frankly we get A LOT of calls on the slave cylinders due to poor installs and people that do not know what they are doing during the installs, Instructions are included which it seems is a waste as most do not read them.
The reason Coz was hesitant to warranty the part is simple, 99.9999% of the time when there is an issue after a new install people instantly think the slave cylinder is the issue and 99.9999999% of the time it is not, These are very good units and we have VERY few issues out of them.
Air was being introduced by a old worn/dirty master cylinder.
There is also a very simple bleeding procedure, also in the instructions. At the end of the sheet it also says "if pedal does not return fully" a new master cylinder will be needed.
Frankly we get A LOT of calls on the slave cylinders due to poor installs and people that do not know what they are doing during the installs, Instructions are included which it seems is a waste as most do not read them.
The reason Coz was hesitant to warranty the part is simple, 99.9999% of the time when there is an issue after a new install people instantly think the slave cylinder is the issue and 99.9999999% of the time it is not, These are very good units and we have VERY few issues out of them.
05-27-2013, 02:14 PM
#12
Well now, this past weekend I ran her at streets of willow. The vehicle's clutch line was bleed multiple times. However at the track when I would shift quickly, the pedal would still drop. So I had to pop her up each time. Hopefully there is still some air in the line, because it only occurred when I was 2-3 laps in the session when everything (started warming up). If it isn't that, it must be one of te units. But I will update the post on that matter.
05-29-2013, 06:35 AM
#13
If the pedal is still dropping and you have replaced the master you need to check the adjustment at the master cylinder, Also make sure the nut on the adjustment rod is tight, If it was not tightened during the install the adjustment will loosen up and cause the pedal to drop again. It has to be adjusted correctly, too much free play and it will drop when hot...
Last edited by ZSpeedPerformance; 05-29-2013 at 06:36 AM.
06-01-2013, 04:41 PM
#15
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This happened to me on my Altima SE-R, for some reason Nissan's master/slave suck ***. I was also stranded but luckily I had some electrical tape and a bottle of water, so I taped the sh*t out of the slave tube connecting to the cylinder and put water in the brake fluid. I pumped it a little bit and it had good enough pressure for me to drive home, even though I did have to pick the pedal up off the floor from time to time.
I would replace both man. I did and I ran it for a year or so before selling my SE-R. Just make sure you don't buy cheap parts for it like Beck/Arnley, they fail just as bad, also maybe try a differnet DOT brake fluid
I would replace both man. I did and I ran it for a year or so before selling my SE-R. Just make sure you don't buy cheap parts for it like Beck/Arnley, they fail just as bad, also maybe try a differnet DOT brake fluid
06-18-2013, 08:44 PM
#19
so i took the z through her paces a couple of times on a nice stretch of road and ive noticed the clutch has lost its firm feeling that it had prior to giving her some WOT. Now the clutch is engaging super early, about an inch off the floor. Is this normal? keep in mind the car JUST put 1000 miles on the clutch.
06-19-2013, 10:59 AM
#20
What have you checked so far?
Is it staying that way or changing back to normal? If it is changing you may have an adjustment issue or air in the lines still. If it is staying that way you may have damaged the clutch in some way.
Is the nut tight on the pedal clevis? If it was not tightened the adjustment will back off and could be a cause of your problem. The adjustment may also be too tight causing pressure to build in the system when fully warmed up.
I would say take it to a reputable shop and have them diagnose the problem and adjust the master cylinder adjustment correctly.
Is it staying that way or changing back to normal? If it is changing you may have an adjustment issue or air in the lines still. If it is staying that way you may have damaged the clutch in some way.
Is the nut tight on the pedal clevis? If it was not tightened the adjustment will back off and could be a cause of your problem. The adjustment may also be too tight causing pressure to build in the system when fully warmed up.
I would say take it to a reputable shop and have them diagnose the problem and adjust the master cylinder adjustment correctly.