VQ Header Swap Tricks?
05-31-2013, 02:49 PM
#22
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
am I f'd up in saying that the only way to take the headers off (without removing the block) is with the front end coming off??
Last edited by bealljk; 05-31-2013 at 03:20 PM.
05-31-2013, 08:55 PM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Bethlehem
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Glad I could amuse you with my thought. Your photo amused me as well. That looks like a ton of unnecessary work. Kudos for effort though.
05-31-2013, 10:19 PM
#25
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
turbo install, call it a labor of love - it's not a daily so I don't have to have it done over a weekend…I've got a thread going somewhere here...
Last edited by bealljk; 05-31-2013 at 10:30 PM.
06-01-2013, 04:40 AM
#26
I haven't really done anything mechanical with a 350z in about 2 years, right about now is when I finished my NA build... Anyway, you need to remove your intake,you need to drain your coolant, you need to remove the coolant hard lines on both sides of the motor, the passenger side one has an Oring seal and a bolt holding it on in the back, jack the front end up as high as you feel safe with, remove the heat shields on the manifolds, remove the 2 bolts on each pipe connecting the cat back to the cat pipes, remove the 3 nuts on each cat pipe connecting to the manifold, twist and pull the cat out on each side, make sure to disconnect the O2 sensors, then remove the 12 nuts on each side holding the manifolds on, I was able to do it by using a deep well socket whatever size it was, pull out the manifolds and take a breath of fresh air being half way done. Now it I am giving this DIY on a long tube installation since it is way harder. The reason why I say to lift the front end as high as you feel safe with is because it will help ALOT! When trying to maneuver them in. Go from the bottom and slowly work them in and pay attention to where you are hanging up on. A helpful shove has helped push them past the steering shaft. Reinstall your sensors (I say do this after they are in so you don't damage them. Also, if you are doing long tubes, then you will need to make slack in your harness to make the rear O2 sensors reach. Bolt it all back up and let her rip, I drove my 350z without a tune for a few months and please don't make my mistake, I got lucky but I was running very lean.
I am sure this isn't as descriptive as you are looking for, but unless I was there to help or get paid to do it, I can't really remember off hand what else
I am sure this isn't as descriptive as you are looking for, but unless I was there to help or get paid to do it, I can't really remember off hand what else
06-01-2013, 07:10 PM
#29
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
nope, didnt search cause I didnt care…no way in hell I was going to remove my stillen headers and install the turbs without pulling the block or taking the front end off…seeing that I am revamping my front end it only made logical sense to take the front end off…
if the OP and Classy want to install headers from leaning over the engine and jacking the car up and doing the work from the underside than more power to them…
if the OP and Classy want to install headers from leaning over the engine and jacking the car up and doing the work from the underside than more power to them…
Last edited by bealljk; 06-01-2013 at 07:13 PM.
06-02-2013, 07:29 AM
#33
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
revamped front end…post #53
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...n-build-2.html
Last edited by bealljk; 06-02-2013 at 07:33 AM.
06-05-2013, 08:25 AM
#36
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Midwest
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the tip.
The used 370's were dirt cheap (I didn't buy from Z1, just quoting them as a reference); test pipes, whether DE or HR are cheap and are actually designed for my motor?; modification is moving 4 studs total. Spending maybe $200 total versus between $700-1000 for new pieces which will probably yield similar results sounds reasonable to me.
The used 370's were dirt cheap (I didn't buy from Z1, just quoting them as a reference); test pipes, whether DE or HR are cheap and are actually designed for my motor?; modification is moving 4 studs total. Spending maybe $200 total versus between $700-1000 for new pieces which will probably yield similar results sounds reasonable to me.
$250 - New OEM HR Headers (no shields)
$200 - New Res TPs
$230 - Swain Coat headers
$135 - Swain Coat TPs
$175 - HR mani gaskets, Z1 flange gasket, xtra lock nuts and studs
$450 - 4-5hr shop labor.
06-05-2013, 05:00 PM
#38
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Midwest
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I respectfully disagree. I have yet to see any dyno proof that lth perform any better than shorties+tps on non-rev 238i/240e stock cam profile. Sgm lth only put out 11whp NA on nonrev DE. Shorties with cat deletes will perform similar. HR, VHR, Revup....yeah different story. Also Swain coating much much better than jethot. I can actually touch the headers at idle after running. For nonrev this is the most cost effective route aside from not doing headers and keeps the option to meet emissions if necessary. I only did headers for improved exhaust volume dump on nitrous. If NA stock engine only I wouldn't bother.
Last edited by Old Rice; 06-05-2013 at 05:48 PM.
06-07-2013, 04:55 AM
#40
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm halfway done and I have a great tip: don't do it!
I expected it to take a while, but there are a lot of snags that get me so pissed off, wasting hours on stupid sh*t. Hopefully get the passenger side off soon...
I expected it to take a while, but there are a lot of snags that get me so pissed off, wasting hours on stupid sh*t. Hopefully get the passenger side off soon...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SpartanZ32
Zs & Gs For Sale
4
10-22-2015 09:36 AM
