Originally Posted by mx594

Mine is doing this as well, although not as badly as you describe. I notice that my engagement point keeps changing (getting closer to the floor) and so I keep adjusting the rod...now I am out of threads. But it seems to improve when the car warms up.

However this morning while driving to work, I decided to stick my foot under the clutch pedal and pull on it for 30 seconds or so. Viola, the freeplay at the top was gone and the engagement point was at least 1/2" or 3/4" higher up. It remained that way for the rest of the drive. Its almost too high now.

Is this the reason for the "helper spring" in the stock assembly? Because I was basically using my foot to perform the same function.

Originally Posted by RJM Performance

mx594 did you adjust the upper cruise switch each time to extended the clutch rod? If not the pedal would be against the upper switch stop and by threading the clutch rod out would start to depress the master cylinder to some degree all the time. The upper switch plate is intentionally designed NOT to be very stiff so that if one does over extend the clutch rod without adjusting the upper switch position the upper mount will simply flex upwards to stopping potentially destructive clutch damage.

All clutch rod adjustments should be made with the upper switch out or threaded in very shallow so it isn't holding the pedal down while setting the overall pedal height and friction point. There are still 3 main springs in the hydraulic system all working to return the pedal to fully up without need for a 4th. The clutch diaphram is the main force returning the pedal, followed by a return spring in the slave cylinder which pulls the throw out bearing off of the diaphram face when not depressing the clutch, and lastly there is a return spring inside the master cylinder itself trying to push the piston and clutch rod fully out again when not being depressed.

Now I think what is happening in your case is when you pulled the pedal up with your foot you were also flexing the upper switch mount upwards while doing so.

Now for why the pedal goes spungy. If the master cylinder rod isn't allowed to go all the way out to its fully extended position it doesn't uncover the fluid port inside that allows fluid to flow between the pressure side of the MC and the reservior. So what happens if this port is always held closed is that fluid can't move to or from the reservoir causing the friction point to rise higher as the car gets hot and fluid expands. Then in the morning when cold the fluid will have contracted overnight making the pedal spongy and the friction point very low until things warm up or as you discovered by forcing the pedal up against the upper switch that you opened the transfer port long enough to restore proper MC operation and the friction point immediately came up.

I would suggest going back to the install guide and reset the pedal height, get the friction point set back where you like it and then re-adjust both switches so that they just click plus a little more. However if adjusted properly neither switch should ever be depressed to the point where the white ruber bumper is hard up against the threaded body of the switch.

Hope that helps
Ryan