Fresh VQ35DE, break in oil/additives/soft VS hard?
#1
Fresh VQ35DE, break in oil/additives/soft VS hard?
I asked SOHO's shop owner, and engine builder about their recomendation for how I should break in the engine. They built my short block. This is their method:
I wasn't able to get redline engine oil break in additive since it's not sold here locally. I found some Lucas engine oil break in additive, will that suffice? I'm planning on following this procedure tomorrow:
1. Fill with Castrol Edge Mineral Oil 5w30 + Lucas Engine Oil break-in additive.
2. Idle until oil pressure comes down/stabilizes.
3. Drive 40 miles with slight acceleration up to 4000rpm, engine break gently to decelerate. I'll avoid WOT & stay below 4k RPM until 500 miles.
4. At 500 miles - Oil change - new Castrol Edge Synthetic 5w30, begin driving normally.
5. At 1,000 miles - Oil change - new Castrol Edge Synthetic 5w30, and proceed to run the car hard WOT to 7500 redline at will?
Also, at 1,000 miles, I plan to send a sample of oil off for analysis to select the most ideal oil for my engine. I might do this again at 3,000 miles, and/or 6,000 miles depending on how much they charge for the service. Never done this before, just want to make sure I give this engine a strong fighting chance this time (although I feel poor quality piston rings were my Achilles heel last time).
Just curious about different techniques/recommendations and what-not? I read this http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm and found it pretty convincing too. I'm just hoping for the John McClane of motors this time around.
For any motor that we build and break in, for the first 500 miles we use castrol 5w30 motor oil with the redline engine oil break in additive (part #:81403), and we usually do around 40 miles or so of nothing but slight acceleration up to 4000 rpm and then decelerate on the dyno. Decelerating allows everything to seal and set and is the standard procedure that we do after we have built a motor. Once everything is together, start it up and let it idle for a little and let everything stabilize and check to see that there are no leaks and all of the coolant has been bleed properly. After the 500 miles, we use full synthetic 5w30 oil, and perform an oil change after 1000 miles
1. Fill with Castrol Edge Mineral Oil 5w30 + Lucas Engine Oil break-in additive.
2. Idle until oil pressure comes down/stabilizes.
3. Drive 40 miles with slight acceleration up to 4000rpm, engine break gently to decelerate. I'll avoid WOT & stay below 4k RPM until 500 miles.
4. At 500 miles - Oil change - new Castrol Edge Synthetic 5w30, begin driving normally.
5. At 1,000 miles - Oil change - new Castrol Edge Synthetic 5w30, and proceed to run the car hard WOT to 7500 redline at will?
Also, at 1,000 miles, I plan to send a sample of oil off for analysis to select the most ideal oil for my engine. I might do this again at 3,000 miles, and/or 6,000 miles depending on how much they charge for the service. Never done this before, just want to make sure I give this engine a strong fighting chance this time (although I feel poor quality piston rings were my Achilles heel last time).
Just curious about different techniques/recommendations and what-not? I read this http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm and found it pretty convincing too. I'm just hoping for the John McClane of motors this time around.
Last edited by mcarther101; 10-12-2013 at 05:37 PM.
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
personally the way i do it is i drive the car hard, not beat on it but drive it hard using all rpm ranges and even go into boost on boosted cars i do limit it to about 75-80% throttle though and boost to under 10 psi.
for my first oil change i use the cheapest 10w30 i can find with a bottle of GM EOS(break in additive) or comp cams break in additive, first oil change at 25-50 miles(most engine break in happens during first 10 miles), then myself i did another at 100, 150, 250, 500, and then normal oil changes of 2500 miles. honestly though its a bit excessive and 25-50, 250, then 1000 would probably be all thats needed.
for my first oil change i use the cheapest 10w30 i can find with a bottle of GM EOS(break in additive) or comp cams break in additive, first oil change at 25-50 miles(most engine break in happens during first 10 miles), then myself i did another at 100, 150, 250, 500, and then normal oil changes of 2500 miles. honestly though its a bit excessive and 25-50, 250, then 1000 would probably be all thats needed.
#3
New Member
iTrader: (7)
I did about 10 miles on the first set of oil and It was cheap 5w30, used a motul break in oil for 20 more miles and then I did another cheap 5w30 to 500 miles and put in
Synthetic, ran like a champ.
I drove it soft and no higher then 3500 rpm for the first 500 miles. Afte that I drove it like a raped ape
Synthetic, ran like a champ.
I drove it soft and no higher then 3500 rpm for the first 500 miles. Afte that I drove it like a raped ape
#4
Jerry's method seems similar to the reading I've been doing. I'm definitely leaning towards somewhere around varying acceleration between 50-75% to 4,000 to 5,625RPM (53% to 75% of 7500rpm redline) for the first 40 miles, and following that with engine breaking to idle RPM (1000rpm).
Some more reading/links:
http://www.examiner.com/article/how-...k-a-new-engine
http://amsperformance.com/attachment...structions.pdf
Some more reading/links:
http://www.examiner.com/article/how-...k-a-new-engine
http://amsperformance.com/attachment...structions.pdf
#6
Ya, I got that. I did the first oil change today at ~60 miles. Wow, I was surprised how black it was that quickly. Glad I am doing this properly getting the engine break in oil additive,assembly lube, RTV, and whatever else out quickly. I put some more engine break in oil additive in the second batch of oil, and will run this to 500 miles.
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