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Rear main / upper pan issue

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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 06:23 PM
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Z-speed33's Avatar
Z-speed33
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Default Rear main / upper pan issue

Anyone else had any issues with the rear main or upper pan seal leaking after replacement. I built the engine the winter of 12/13 and used brand new OEM seals. Started leaking through the weep hole of the bell housing about 1700kms after the rebuild. So pulled the trans and the upper pan, replaced them both with OEM seals again. Now this year pulled it out from its winter sleep and have put about 500kms on this year, about 1500km since I replaced the seals, and it seems to be pissing out oil again.

Any input would be greatful. I am sure I checked the crank to be sure there were not burrs or edges that could damage the seal. I'm sure the OEM are pretty good but is there any AM that might be better?
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Old May 1, 2014 | 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Z-speed33
Anyone else had any issues with the rear main or upper pan seal leaking after replacement. I built the engine the winter of 12/13 and used brand new OEM seals. Started leaking through the weep hole of the bell housing about 1700kms after the rebuild. So pulled the trans and the upper pan, replaced them both with OEM seals again. Now this year pulled it out from its winter sleep and have put about 500kms on this year, about 1500km since I replaced the seals, and it seems to be pissing out oil again.

Any input would be greatful. I am sure I checked the crank to be sure there were not burrs or edges that could damage the seal. I'm sure the OEM are pretty good but is there any AM that might be better?
I was anticipating needing to replace my clutch this year and was looking into everything that is unique to the Z and see if there are any surprises. The rear main seal has got me worried because at 220,000 miles mine's got to be "worn"/dried out, something that would make me want to replace it.

I've noticed at least two other threads on here pertaining to the seal. The advice seems to be put gray RTV on the bottom half when installing and the other advice is to only attempt to do it with the whole engine out because of how hard it is to get the top portion in straight even after removing the oil pan. That's great advice but not practical for most of us just replacing a clutch or seal only.

Hope some one adds in some good advice for you. This is not an easy thing on this car.

Where is it leaking exactly? Around the shaft or out the bottom by the case??? That will be a clue to someone else what may have gone wrong on yours. RTV will only help with certain leaks.
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Old May 1, 2014 | 06:35 AM
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Z-speed33
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Yeah I would say if its not leaking then dont bother, I have the DE so you have to lower the upper oil pan to do the rear main, not the best job I have ever done.

I should have also mentioned I am single turbo. I am wondering if there is too much crankcase pressure. The vent to atmosphere on the rear of the drivers side valve cover I just have a little k&n filter on, I feel like I could route it pre-turbo on the intake pipe. Anyone have any input on this, I don't know if that would cause that much excessive pressure, enough to leak atleast.
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Old May 1, 2014 | 09:25 AM
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i recently just finished my motor and drove and it around NA for a short while. After I decided what to go for, I purchased a single turbo kit and went for a tune, sure enough oil started leaking... I took it to a local tuner shop and he saw the rear main seal was busted.

Theory may be it was an improper install and/or high pressure. After doing a few simple checks, we noticed the oil pressure and crank ventilation was okay, but a dowel pin was missing so the seal never sat center.

Currently in the shop being fixed, should get it back today/tomorrow

Last edited by steven350; May 1, 2014 at 09:26 AM.
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