daytona350zr

I paid $230 for the pulley/belts and $120 to have the pully installed and it's worth EVERY penny. IMO best bang for the buck for our Z's.

milner

man i cant wait to get mine

TheLex

OK, I read the faq, and I'm still a little confused. Since these things underdrive the accessories, has anyone noticed a decrease in air conditioning performance?

FLY BY Z

It doesn't underdrive that much. A lot of it is weight savings.

Z350Lover

iTrader: (2)

so which pulley is actually more important to be changed to gain HP? Only the Crank Pulley? I saw Performance Nissan is selling either a set of 3 or just a single UR crank pulley.... should I just get one or it is better off to get 3? need opinions here!

cheers and thanks in advance!

richie

mpol99

Just get the crank pulley for HP gains. The other stuff is just for show, not worth the $$$ in my opinion (because I'm not a "show" kind of guy)

FLY BY Z

the crank pulley is the one that provides gains. the others are for looks/show. If you just get the black pulley you don't have to worry about that. Besides, they aren't exactly readily visible.

Judge

Has the issue of harmful harmonic resonance been laid to rest with the UR pullies? Or do they now come with dampers?

Sins4u33

iTrader: (4)

i heard that to install the pulleys on a automatic its a bit harder and the installation is alot more expensive can one give me some feedback on this??

Ben

f r e z N Y

The the best of my knowledge, the engineers of the VQ did not design the crank pulley to give the crank harmonic resonance, so swapping the pulley should have no negative results.

ChrisMCagle

I got the 3 pulley set and rather than paying the $240.00 that Performance Nissan was asking to install them, I decided to do it myself. In hindsight... the $240.00 is not looking that bad. It was a BEEEOTCH to install! Well.... let me rephrase that. It was a beeeotch to do the removal. The UR directions said to remove the fan, well in order to do that, you have to pop off the radiator hose which of course makes a nice mess when all the coolant spills out all over the floor. Then trying to actually remove the crank pulley bolt resulted in snapping my Craftsman breaker bar at the base (thank God for lifetime warranties). Soooo... another hour, 5 miles roundtrip to Home Depot, and about 3 beers later... that damned crank pulley bolt finally gave up and decided to come off. Actually installing the new crank pulley as well as the other larger pulley was a piece of cake. I didn't install the alternator pulley because it was getting late and I didn't feel brave enough to remove the alternator and didn't really see how I would be able to get it off once I did so it stayed stock.. for now.
The fan went back fairly easily as did the radiator hose and the plastic pan underneath the front. I added about 75% of a bottle of Prestone and then read that you needed to mix it 50% with water (DOH!) Oh well, I guess I should have read it sooner.

Assuming I was done I dropped the card down and fired her up. She started up and ran fine, however the CEL was on. I let it run for a while, but the CEL didn't go out. I wasn't sure at this point whether it was due to the new Pulleys, or the radiator coolant mishap. I let it idle for about 15 minutes and the temperature stayed right where it usually always does (just below the halfway point). I took it for a spin around the block and it drove fine.

I went back home and let it cool off then checked the coolant level. It was a little low so I added water this time till it was full, then added water to the overflow container. I turned it back on and let it idle for about another 15 minutes and the temperature stayed the same and the CEL was still on.

I went ahead and reset the ECU using Technosquare's procedure and the CEL went out.
I drove it to work this morning and for about the first 20 to 30 seconds after I started the car, the belts squealed pretty loudly, but then got quiet. I called UR and they said that was due to the belts being a bit too loose. They said that they were going to update their instructions to include that you need to retighten the belts after you drive around for a day to fix the squeal.

I have not really noticed any difference since I just installed them last night and have only driven to work this morning. It is supposed to take about a week for the ECU to adjust for the lighter pulley so hopefully I'll notice a difference then. If anyone is considering doing this themselves.... DON'T!! Spend the money and have a shop do it. You will be doing yourself a favor!

-Chrismcagle

daytona350zr

Yes it is a bit harder to do an auto, my local speed shop charged me $120 to install the pulley.

JPizzle

Just ordered my pulley set w/belts =) (in silver)

Judge

This is why I was asking and is my main concern.

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....x+and+harmonic

f r e z N Y

I particularly loved the argument that UR makes when they say, "If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all." Hey, Pontiac also made a car called the Aztec… Not everything that comes straight from the factory is a matter of best engineering practice. You can apply that logic to both sides of the pulley debate.

It sounds as though the UR pulley is potentially giving the crank shaft undue fatigue, but I doubt that the level of fatigue given to a crank shaft is any more significant that the harmonic resonance stress given by the oscillating pistons. Better not rev your engine too quickly, or you could give the crank shaft too dramatic a frequency shift and break your crank…

snolden

I disagree with y'all. This is a good DIY mod. Even for autos. For an auto you either have to lock down the flexplate so it doesn't move (there is a small access cover on the bottom of the tranny) or use a good impact wrench.

For a MT, it is pretty cake, but like these guys have said, there are some things you need to think about ahead of time. Figure out how to adjust the belts and how to drain the coolant. Get some premixed new coolant (perhaps with water wetter) set aside, as well as an old cooler or tub for the coolant to drain.

And yes the pulley bolt is a ***** but no worse than working on rusted bolts on other cars. The AT guys are gonna have to work harder but they also don't have to shift while driving.

Remember the lever is your friend. Everyone should have a 6ft section of 2 inch pvc or pipe around the garage for jobs like this. Stick your 2 foot breaker bar on there, throw the pipe over it and push firm and steady, voila off comes the bolt.

ChrisMCagle

Snolden is correct. The only way your'e gonna get that little bastard bolt off is with either an air ratchet, or a breaker bar with a nice 2 or preferably 3 foot pipe on it. BUT be very careful because I snapped the head off the breaker bar when I first tried it. Luckily it was a Craftsman so I took that right back and got a replacement. The pulley bolt will give a lot too when you are pushing on the bar, but just keep on it and eventually it will give up and loosen.

I was able to easily fix the belt squeal by tightening the belt adjusters. I turned both bolts a good 2 1/2 turns tighter and no more squeal. The longest part was taking that plastic pan off the front.

-Chrismcagle

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

we got loads of these in stock guys and for locals, we do installs too

dougrace zs

iTrader: (2)

Did you guys get the torque spec on the pulley from the manufactor or did most of you just tighten it back down.