Over heating issues ... 660hp - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion



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Old 02-07-2017, 03:01 PM   #1
R6n350GT
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Default Over heating issues ... 660hp

In 86 degree F ambient temp, my car sits at <200 F on the highway when moving. When car is sitting in traffic bumper to bumper temps can creep above 200. * All with AC on. When pushing car through the mountains i turn AC off but temps very quickly go 220F+ and yesterday it was 89F ambient and temps went to 230F and i had to turn the heater on to get temps lower during mountain run..

Car has pathfinder mod done which was leaking after pressure test so i took it off, got the pipe bead rolled and re pressure tested, holds at least 14psi of pressure.

Had head gasket check for leak and no leak.

Also has HR head block mod done (using L19 head studs and Comtec gasket).

Also running a swirl pot which friend suggested could cause issues so ill try to take it off for now.

Radiator is Koyo 53mm with fan shroud and 2x Spal 12" fans.
Using a 1.4P Koyo radiator cap on the swirl pot and by pass cap on the radiator.
(i used the weather stripping between the AC condenser and rad and shroud)

Using ARC FMIC, dual row 34 Mishimoto oil cooler getting direct air side of bumper. Also have radiator cooling plate.

Both fans come on at 180F and 184F.

Used Redline water wetter and Penrite version both pure distilled water only.

Even have vented bonnet..

Used the yellow Liese spill free funnel and bled the system


What can i do next? Electric water pump, new radiator (PWR?), new 14" High performance Spal fans ???
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Old 02-07-2017, 03:56 PM   #2
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have you diagnosed your thermostat? and/or your waterpump?

Seeing how easy and less expensive a new thermo and pump are I'd do that before you re-vamp your cooling system.

Last edited by bealljk; 02-07-2017 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 02-07-2017, 04:11 PM   #3
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It was happening with oem thermostat which was new, so replaced with 68C one, same issue. new water pump also when engine was put together 2000km ago.
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Old 02-07-2017, 04:32 PM   #4
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taking your engine to 230 degrees is out of its normal range - you may have cooked your seals on your water pump and it's not pumping like it should.
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Old 02-07-2017, 05:05 PM   #5
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230 F not C.
And only for a few mins as i then put heater on to get temps down.
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Old 02-07-2017, 06:20 PM   #6
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In for info, I sort of have similar issues. I have a build APS TT and it only overheats on track.

I have seen 245F as the highest coolant temp its ever seen.
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Old 02-08-2017, 01:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djtimodj View Post
In for info, I sort of have similar issues. I have a build APS TT and it only overheats on track.

I have seen 245F as the highest coolant temp its ever seen.
Only things i can do is
Remove Swirl pot then Re bleed radiator rather than swirl pot (but its fine in cool days, doesnt go above 180 at night)...

im thinking either going back to stock fan shroud and fans (better than slim line ones?)

Change the thermostat (but bottom hose gets hot so it does open...) and is new

New Radiator incase its blocked (not sure how to tell...)

Electric water pump (should not be needed but in slow bumper to bumper traffic i guess it would)..

Ah i hate this hot engine...
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Old 02-08-2017, 03:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R6n350GT View Post
230 F not C.
And only for a few mins as i then put heater on to get temps down.
yeah, 230 C is 440 F ... if someone can take their engine to 440* F without it it seizing up - than you've got me!

remember that if your reading 230* F, that measurement is coming from the rear coolant pipe where the temp sensor is...the temperature (especially if your pump is dysfunctional) isnt homogeneous throughout the engine. Meaning the coolant near the sensor is 230* but the coolant inside the block could be significantly higher than that.
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Old 02-08-2017, 03:35 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bealljk View Post
yeah, 230 C is 440 F ... if someone can take their engine to 440* F without it it seizing up - than you've got me!

remember that if your reading 230* F, that measurement is coming from the rear coolant pipe where the temp sensor is...the temperature (especially if your pump is dysfunctional) isnt homogeneous throughout the engine. Meaning the coolant near the sensor is 230* but the coolant inside the block could be significantly higher than that.
That 230F reading is on lower radiator hose.

Should i remove my swirl pot ?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/D1-SPEC-U...-/201150144400
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Old 02-08-2017, 04:08 PM   #10
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thats even worse! The lower radiator hose is going to be the coolest coolant in the system. So if your lowest temp was 230degrees who knows how hot the rest of your system was!

I'd remove the swirl pot until you get the issues worked out...

Assuming you've bleed the system and the thermostat is functioning like it should I would have to think your water pump isnt working 100%...
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Old 02-10-2017, 12:18 PM   #11
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At 230f the stock oem water temp gauge starts to move from the middle setting but i never let it get high as i get it back down to 220 quickly using the heater.

Water pump is new, and they are huge pain to get to. I have a feeling b4 last rebuild it was also running hitnlike this . Thats why I did pathfinder cooling mod. It initally leaked and overheated worse but since fixing that it was all good, didnt go above 200 F with non Mountain driving..

Ill.take swirl pot off. Get radiator flow checked but is it worth switching back to stock thermostat ?
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Old 02-10-2017, 07:17 PM   #12
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I disagree ...

but it's your car, let us know how it turns out...
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Old 02-20-2017, 02:44 AM   #13
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Updates


So went to radiator shop, he tested radiator, no blockages (tested with infra red heat gun). Bottom to top, inlet to outlet.

he found that the outlet hose was 100 F difference from heater pipe to hose. like 15cm away... so he believed radiant heat.

So i took pipe off, wrapped it (initially with header wrap, then replaced with heat wrap) , wrapped turbo side header, twin scroll manifold and made a heat shroud. That has made a difference so far but only one drive test to work (hour) in 80 F heat.. not a big test yet.

I also swapped to stock thermostat and no swirl pot.

Things to do:
Turbo blanket
Heat wrap other header side
gold heat tape the charge pipe
use another heat shield to replace the skinny section of shield (see pics)
install the new bumper i brought
install the under body shroud

P.S i hooked up exhaust temp, pitty i didnt have it before. What is it supposed to be? runs from 500 to 650 F i think..




I ended up unwrapping the heater hose and using heat proof wrap so it stops heat not keeps it in.



Made a heat shield to stop the radiant heat



blown out gaskets i need to replace..



wrapped the oil cooler water line



turbo side done but not other side yet



the charge pipe i also wrapped a bit you see with the heat proof wrap, but waiting on my gold heat tape to do entire charge piping.



to stop the floor from getting hot !



heat shield needs to be wider but thats all i had left..



bracket up, no sure how close it needs to be to the pipe to be effective ???



first time on a 80 F highway drive that water was less that oil... mostly it stayed within 10 F more than oil



thats the hottest it got as traffic slowed. Generally water sat around 180-195 F
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Old 02-20-2017, 02:50 AM   #14
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Also anyone use stainless mesh filters? My current one got burnt from being so close..
http://vpw.com.au/Category/Index/11258?Brand=Proflow


Thanks !



Last edited by R6n350GT; 02-20-2017 at 02:51 AM.
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