quickdiversion

So I finally had my swap to the point where I can try and start it

I hook up the battery, all is good, ACC on, all the lights come on, go. Crank, and 2 clicks of the solenoid and it all goes black.

So far is is what I have checked.

-12v at the battery, which is in the trunk.
-12v the the fuse block in the front that originally was on the battery. Here is
the thing, there is only 12v at that fuse block when I pull the 2 connectors
with 4g lines coming off.

both connectors with 4g wires disconnected and I disconnected W/R and W/L to pins other ends of lines which plug into IPDM, .03 ohm, and not shorted to ground.

Same W/R and W/L pulled from connectors and individualized connected to fuse block and 12v at each line about to plug into the IPDM.

If I plug the connector into the Ipdm and the check voltage at the main fuse block, i NOW HAVE 6V.

I pulled the secondary fuse block and body control module lines out of connector at the main fuse block. I pulled all fuses from secondary fuse block and read 12v at incoming lines. put the fuses back in and I drop down to 6v again

I remove the power line from the fuse block that feeds the BCM and with only that single line connected to the main fuse black I get 12v on W/B before going into the fuse panel If I plug it back in and than check voltage back at the main fuse block, it drops down to 6v

It seems every item I plug into, like how it should be draws out Voltage.

If I hook up everything normal like it should work and check voltage on the like coming from the battery, that I know had 12v before hooking it up, once hooked up, it drops to 3.5V

This is driving me made, it is a brand new yellow top, 12.5V at the battery. Not sure the amps currently cause my MM doesn't read that high, or there is Zero.

Tried hooking jumper cables up to my wife's batter with her car running and Directly ion the the lines that should be on the battery, no change.

there is 3.5V at the fuse for the interior lights, that should come on when the door is open. but no lights.


Please ask for clarify if I didn't make sense on something. I am beyond made at this.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Is this still that VK56 swap into a G? If so, get ready for the looney bin. As I've said before on most hybrid swap threads, the actual mechanical work pales in comparison with the electronic nightmarishs to be faced in swapping engines.

quickdiversion

Yes it is my swap. The harness was modified, at a heafty price and gaurteed, as of now though, its not the harness.

Initial key on and acc all was fine, or so appeared. It was not till I tried primimg the motor that I had the issue.

Now with everything connected normal, the lights dont even come on with the doors open and all fuse are good, literaly all were ohmed out.

quickdiversion

I am gonna take a long shot and grab the receipt for the battery cause it is a week old and go have the battery checked, and if its no good, replace it

quickdiversion

I just isolated 1 connector on the IPDM which is connected to the huge power drain, and one connector on the use block before the BCM which is doing the same thing.

Time to see if they collide.