so I recently got a 2003 350z on trade that needed put together. The guy had the motor but it needed put in, CLAIMED it runs. Soooooo I finally got all the stuff to put it in now I have a crank no start fuel pump kicks on, theres no spark, have power to the coil. Only code I have is for the driver side cam sensor which I replaced with a used one and still have the same code. Ive checked all my connectors, everything is plugged in. I even pulled the flywheel back off and it was on correctly. Any ideas?

 

It sounds as if the changes might have triggered NATS.

 

Is there a way I can test and see if that’s for sure my problem or not?

 

Sorry, the only way I know to definitively check NATS is to take it to a dealer with a CONSULT III and have them check the car. This usually involves an hour of shop time for diagnostic purposes.

 

But from what I’m readying the nats will throw a code correct?

 

NATS may throw a BCM code, but I've never had that problem, so I can't say for sure.

 

I may be wrong, but this should allow you to rule NATS out without going to the dealer. I also have not heard about the 15 minute 1 start thing... Worth a try...

http://www.carhelp.info/forums/attac...chmentid=26522

also fyi this just happened to me and I changed the crank sensor and put it on a 100 amp jump starter and it fired up. Try that after verifying it isn't NATS

I smelled fuel though, you're not getting fuel so something else is up.

 

what is that link saying for me to do? I also recently found out the injectors was not doing anything either if that makes a difference. I tried the leaving the key on counting for so long then turning it off redoing it like 3 times and it did not work. I don't guess Ive heard about the 15 minute thing

 

Piece together project car that "runs".

Never heard that one before

 

ehh all and all it isn't bad ive got right around $1300 in it right now lol

 

A lot of guys have talked about the NATS system and a quick way to verify if it is keeping the car from starting or not.

I'm not sure if its when the security light is flashing or if it stays solid that tells you NATS is enabled. I was looking for a post and found that link, but may be easiest to just find a post from someone who outlines it as there is a way to tell just by looking at it (unless all of them were wrong, haven't actually field tested it)

 

took the bolt out of the cam sensor I have a code for and it tried to start lol put the bolt back in nothing

 

...

 

If you have a code for it, change it with an OEM one

 

I'm fighting a similar issue. I had crank no spark. Removed the clutch and flywheel and they were installed right but I torqued them to factory spec. Tried to start the car and it fired but wouldn't hold idle and ran like crap for 3 sec and stalled out. (I didn't put in the crank sensor) reinstalled the crank sensor and crank no spark.. not sure why my car won't start and working on the issue... but I'm curious if yours will do the same. It only fires when I remove the crank sensor from the harness completely.

 

so I actually got it to start last night. well kinda turns out its my own dumbass fault lol. bank one is pass side I was thinking it was driver for some crazy reason. someone finally caught my mistake put the real bank one sensor in and it would run off a bottle with gas. gonna install a new fpr and the hardline that I am missing and see what it does then.