STFU, Chris. Talk to Doan offline. He'll give you the ****ing story.

 

Jesus ****ing Christ. **** this. Closing.

 

HAPPY?!? There is no third run in the third set. I gave up. I mean, I must be ****ing crazy to complain about being that far off, especially after putting 23K miles on the engine. I just don't know what I was thinking because engines just keep losing power like a ****ing battery, right? Hell, I should be down to 200RWHP by the time I hit 50K miles.

For those of you who CANNOT READ, I have oil consumption issues and I'm just getting started working on this with the dealer. This IS going to be an engine issue.

 

Temper temper...

Whatever it is... it will be taken care of.

 

Actually, I don't think that it will. I'm getting, "yeah, that's great. We'll get back to you..."

 

I was gonna say that Kuhmo's are heavy freakin tires and you are running diff sized tires/wheels as well (the wt does NOT tell the overall picture), also, I bet your bigger rotors are heavier as well (rotational wt). I guess you might get pissed at me for saying these things, and it doesn't explain the oil issues, but something to think about. I did a lot of scientific research when I got my graduate degree, and one thing you ALWAYS have to beware of is variables (even if you DON'T think it will make a difference, basically the research in invalid if you change 1 variable without accounting for it in an objective way).

 

Thats what I said on the first page...but no one wanted to listen to me

 

Look at you first set of runs it took 6 runs to get your high # that was oil temp you can loose as much as 6 to 10 hp because your oil temp is not up. The other problem with this dyno run are the tires, we saw a 7 hp loss with the big tires versus the stock tires never mind the weight of the wheel does not seem to matter that much, the problem with the wider tires is there is more tire scrubbing the dyno rollers and slowing the rotation down. You absolutely have to run the same size tires with the same air pressure each time you go.

 

Keep the wheel theories coming, guys. Not buying it.

Just one example

 

Well, after reading the above and looking at your charts, I think your power loss is probably caused by one of two things. Either the dyno needs recalibration or your oil consumption problem is causing you a loss of power. If it's not either of these theories, then your power loss is due to something that hasn't been considered.

I have a new engine due to oil consumption. Honesty, I don't recall any significant power loss issues with the old engine. If anything, the old engine was stronger than my new engine. But, the fact you're burning oil obviously tells you you're having some problems that could be causing you the power loss. Ultimately, I would say you have bad piston rings causing you to burn oil and causing you to lose power.

My suggestion, find a better dealership. And, good luck.

 

I use to have a 2002 3.5 se and let me tell you I know how you feel I had a similar problem and I didnt know what it was took it too the dealer hundreds of times and told them that something was wrong they would tell me the car was perfectly fine, but I was the one that had been driving since it had 23 miles and the car was a lot slower then it use to be the car had no acceleration at all, if you drove it like a normal person the car felt fine but when you hit it it just didnt move like before. I remember racing a rsx not a type S and stock and he pulled on me in 2nd gear pretty imbarassing. My problem started around 24000 miles I ended up selling the car.

 

Guys, brake kits don't affect the dyno if they are on the front wheels on a rear drive vehicle.

I agree that it would be worthwhile to do some runs on your stock rear wheels on a warmer day just to equalize things. I don't doubt that you lost power though. Good luck and maybe try some of VQ35Kompressor's suggestions!

 

droideka: I'm not trying to convince you that your problem doesn't exist or anything or that it is due to wheels only. I was just giving a suggestion that it could be sometihng else. As far as the link you attahed, one guy lost 3 HP from bigger wheels is not conclusive proof that wheels wouldnt account for any more than that. As far as brake-kits, I didn't notice that it was a front-only kit...so yea that wouldnt do anything. In regards to the quartermile effect of aftermarket wheels mentioned in that article, the loss of hp due to bigger wheels and tires is offset by the added traction at the line...so times shouldn't change much anyway.

I say go to ur dealer...have him do a thorough inspection of the car. If he refuses tell him that you are sick of coming back all the time and being ignored and told that your car is fine., and if they don't do a conclusive test and give you the results printed-out, that you will be forced to contact the better business beauroaouzx (don't think I got that one). and don't be afraid to throw in the word "lawyer" into any conversations.

 

just do a compression test yourself...its easy. you could probably rent a compression gauge from a auto parts store.

 

Unfortunately, Nissan dealers won't recognize losses on a dyno done by an independant shop.

The fact that you changed the wheels only gives Nissan an excuse. If you were really concerned about the problem and wanted Nissan to do something, you'd absolutely have to dyno the car under the exact same conditions as the "baseline". Otherwise you have absolutely no case with Nissan. Even if it only accounted for a 3whp change on some other car, you are not using the same wheel/tire combo as that person, and that is only 1 result.

I'm not saying the wheels are your problem, but your dynos are not comparable as they stand. Oh, you are also comparing the lowest result to the highest result.

Dan

 

We should start a Bottom 10 Dyno List.

All kidding aside if you want it fixed don't show them Dyno's they will blame it on anything they can including Dyno Stress.

Your car is not VIN specific, just take it to a good dealer and tell them it's burning oil and you want it fixed. They will do whatever tests they need to determine the cause. If it is rings or something let them fix it, but don't bring dyno's as evidence and don't take no for an answer. I hate Dyno's. My car makes 600rwhp on a Dyno Jet, see how easy that was? Prove me wrong lol. You are either in front of me or behind me when you rev on me all dynos aside (almost always in my rear view.)


Seriuosly though good luck.

 

Funny post of the day... start with Droids and HFMs car!

 

Agreed. Here's a dyno overlay of a stock touring Z vs. a stock enthusiast (just JWT intake) with 19" volk gt-c's.

Same day, same dyno ... but different cars.

Not a great example, but considering all the variables of a dyno, different wheels do make a difference.

 

what tires was the Enthusiest running???

 

Switching your car to tank tracks wouldn't rob this much power. There's no way of knowing how much of this difference is due to the volks/tires. I don't buy the wheel thing either, droideka lost too much power for that. Maybe it's the dyno, but it's definitely a red flag.