300 RWHP no FI?
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300 RWHP no FI?
Ok had my car for a bit now and want to upgrade the engine. Im not really a fan of FI (bad memories ). Im fairly reasonable, I think 300 rwhp would be enough for me but can I do it??
Im open to change everything on the car (exhaust, intake, ecu ect..) but would like to stay away from CAMS if at all possible.
Anyone think this is possible, and what would I need to pull this off??
Im open to change everything on the car (exhaust, intake, ecu ect..) but would like to stay away from CAMS if at all possible.
Anyone think this is possible, and what would I need to pull this off??
#3
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I think you can do this however the cost of doing this would most likely be more then if you went FI in the first place. Mods would be intake, throtle body, pulley, plenum, cams, headers, high flow cats, exhaust, TS ecu and a grounding kit. Just my 2 cents.
Last edited by daytona350zr; 02-20-2004 at 12:40 PM.
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I am running Nismo camshafts, Nismo CA and exhaust, Helix test pipes, and grounding kit and the best I can get is 268 rwhp and 252 rwt. So to get 300 rwhp is probably not possible especially w/o camshafts.
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Well, guess cams are a must... And its not so much a cost issue as past problems Ive had with FI and the general dislike of Nitrous Oxide.
Im wondering how the heads on these things look. Some cars a nice port and polish makes all the diff in the world.
Im wondering how the heads on these things look. Some cars a nice port and polish makes all the diff in the world.
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ok, let me ask you this then Tim'sZ. With the power you have now after your mods, is there a noticable difference??
I see you dont have headers like PoWeRtRiP pointed out, Im wondering with that, a new intake and maybe some porting/polishing on the heads if that might put me there or close... hmm...
I see you dont have headers like PoWeRtRiP pointed out, Im wondering with that, a new intake and maybe some porting/polishing on the heads if that might put me there or close... hmm...
#9
Originally posted by Tim'sZ
I am running Nismo camshafts, Nismo CA and exhaust, Helix test pipes, and grounding kit and the best I can get is 268 rwhp and 252 rwt. So to get 300 rwhp is probably not possible especially w/o camshafts.
I am running Nismo camshafts, Nismo CA and exhaust, Helix test pipes, and grounding kit and the best I can get is 268 rwhp and 252 rwt. So to get 300 rwhp is probably not possible especially w/o camshafts.
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Originally posted by genieman17
Think of what you would have a with a good set of headers, a plenum and a lightened flywheel. That would put you close.
Think of what you would have a with a good set of headers, a plenum and a lightened flywheel. That would put you close.
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My goal is also 300+rwhp. I would like to have a VERY streetable/livable/reliable daily driver that runs 12's. Whether or not that is possible, we shall see.
Only problem I have with F/I is that its so easy to buy the other mods instead saving for so long to get an SC.
Only problem I have with F/I is that its so easy to buy the other mods instead saving for so long to get an SC.
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300 is definately possible N/A......alot of money but possible.......Im at 256rwhp with only Borla Dual Exhaust, Injen CAI, Pulleys and ground kit.....to much money for me to keep adding the expensive ****, I will just go with F/I and be done. Zex helps to.....
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It sounds like you need to just order an SC. Even with cams and every bolt-on, no one is hitting 300 RWHP. With Intake, Cams, Valve springs, Plenum, UDP set, Technosquare ECU, Xerd longtubes and a true dual exhaust you have already spent around $4000 just on parts without even looking at any cost for installation. $600-800 seems to be the going rate for cams and springs installation. It is still far slower than any of the SC kits bolted on without anything else. It would only take a small bump in compression to get the car over 300 rwhp at this point, but it will cost $1600 for a good set of pistons and rods and $3000+ for the install.
You will also find that driveability starts to degrade when you start going to big cams. I have the JWT 264 billets in my VQ30 Maxima and it lopes like a Mustang with a 292 cam. There is a dramatic loss in power everywhere below 3500 rpms, but it does now run to 7600 rpms smoothly. If you went FI instead, the car will drive just like a stock car whenever your not running WOT and the extra power is there whenever you put your foot down.
You will also find that driveability starts to degrade when you start going to big cams. I have the JWT 264 billets in my VQ30 Maxima and it lopes like a Mustang with a 292 cam. There is a dramatic loss in power everywhere below 3500 rpms, but it does now run to 7600 rpms smoothly. If you went FI instead, the car will drive just like a stock car whenever your not running WOT and the extra power is there whenever you put your foot down.
Originally posted by C5DEMON
My goal is also 300+rwhp. I would like to have a VERY streetable/livable/reliable daily driver that runs 12's. Whether or not that is possible, we shall see.
Only problem I have with F/I is that its so easy to buy the other mods instead saving for so long to get an SC.
My goal is also 300+rwhp. I would like to have a VERY streetable/livable/reliable daily driver that runs 12's. Whether or not that is possible, we shall see.
Only problem I have with F/I is that its so easy to buy the other mods instead saving for so long to get an SC.
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Originally posted by C5DEMON
Only problem I have with F/I is that its so easy to buy the other mods instead saving for so long to get an SC.
Only problem I have with F/I is that its so easy to buy the other mods instead saving for so long to get an SC.
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Open a seperate checking account... Setup direct deposit to divert a small amount to it every pay period. If she asks, tell her you changed your 401k(403b) contribution to save money on your income taxes.
*disclaimer - do this only if you are willing to sacrifice your genitalia in order to buy mods. If she finds out, it will either be removed forcefully or eventually fall off from lack of use.*
*disclaimer - do this only if you are willing to sacrifice your genitalia in order to buy mods. If she finds out, it will either be removed forcefully or eventually fall off from lack of use.*
#18
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Hahhah!
quote: Thats another problem I have with FI, easier to spend 5k in bits (easier to hide from HER) then in one lump sum lol
quote: *disclaimer - do this only if you are willing to sacrifice your genitalia in order to buy mods. If she finds out, it will either be removed forcefully or eventually fall off from lack of use.*
That's hella funny! Anyhow, yes, it's possible to get 300 rwhp w/o FI. How much cash do you have to play? Up the compression. Port and polish the head. Best headers on the market and straight pipe. And best flowing exhaust. Then remap your ecu. Best intake available. And you have to go CAMS! I don't think theres going around it. Most N/A guys here making close to 300 "are" running cams. I'm still doing research myself. For the past 10 years, I've studied and have experience with running fast N/A and FI (Turbo) cars; namely Hondas and Acuras. Probably a whole different ballgame, but some still go hand-in-hand. Since my G is my daily driver and somewhat my weekend pimpin-the-ladies car, I'm researching to see what's reliable and maybe N/A is the way to go. Then budget to play might be something to think about. So keep doing your research and if I come through with either set up, I'll keep you guys posted too. Good luck Abomination!
quote: Thats another problem I have with FI, easier to spend 5k in bits (easier to hide from HER) then in one lump sum lol
quote: *disclaimer - do this only if you are willing to sacrifice your genitalia in order to buy mods. If she finds out, it will either be removed forcefully or eventually fall off from lack of use.*
That's hella funny! Anyhow, yes, it's possible to get 300 rwhp w/o FI. How much cash do you have to play? Up the compression. Port and polish the head. Best headers on the market and straight pipe. And best flowing exhaust. Then remap your ecu. Best intake available. And you have to go CAMS! I don't think theres going around it. Most N/A guys here making close to 300 "are" running cams. I'm still doing research myself. For the past 10 years, I've studied and have experience with running fast N/A and FI (Turbo) cars; namely Hondas and Acuras. Probably a whole different ballgame, but some still go hand-in-hand. Since my G is my daily driver and somewhat my weekend pimpin-the-ladies car, I'm researching to see what's reliable and maybe N/A is the way to go. Then budget to play might be something to think about. So keep doing your research and if I come through with either set up, I'll keep you guys posted too. Good luck Abomination!
#19
This isn't being said toward anyone particular, but: It bothers me when someone is asking about various NA mods and people say stuff like "yo don't bother just get FI." I mean look, if you do all the NA mods and THEN ALSO get FI the benefit will be ridiculous. It bothers me when people keep mentioning like its a choice. If someone got intake, throttle body, plenum, cams, flywheel, pulleys, headers, straightpipes/cats, and a good exhaust it would cost around 5-7 grand with installation and you would have around (close to) 300hp. If you spent 5-7 grand on FI yes you would have about 400hp. Yes FI alone would give you more than NA mods alone, but if you got both it is not impossible to have a car with 450+ HP with BOTH, don't view them as independent choices, combine both!!! Get even more HP!!! Then if you go further and reduce the weight slightly...can you say low 11s!!!
#20
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Originally posted by Loren04G35
It sounds like you need to just order an SC. Even with cams and every bolt-on, no one is hitting 300 RWHP.
It sounds like you need to just order an SC. Even with cams and every bolt-on, no one is hitting 300 RWHP.
One of the Zs in the club (mjedens) is hitting 304 rwhp. Tomei 268s... stock compression ratio.
Before you post... have ALL your facts right.