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Clutch Pedal Not Returning - Already replaced Master/Slave/Bled

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Old Sep 5, 2019 | 09:53 AM
  #1  
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Default Clutch Pedal Not Returning - Already replaced Master/Slave/Bled

I'd been having a steadily progressing issue where the pedal wasn't returning all the way up. For the past several years, it would droop as the car sat for a long period of time, but a few pumps and lift of the foot and it would recover. I finally figured it was time to address it so went out and bought a new slave and master. Put them both on, and couldn't get fluid from the reservoir to the slave. In fact, it wouldn't even come out the master. Long story short, it the pedal wasn't coming out far enough to apparently let the fluid in, corrected that, bled it, and the pedal now stops about half way back up. Thought it might be a defective master, so put the old one back on, and same thing. I've bled this thing until I'm blue in the face, no air is coming out the screw. A couple of symptoms:

1) If I pull the pedal off the floor, it has steadily increasing force until it get's close to the top, then snaps to the top of the stroke. If I push down on it, it snaps back down to a level about 2-3" off the floor.
2) Pushing the pedal basically causes the slave cylinder to do almost nothing. The piston/fork are moving maybe 1/8" total, probably less.
3) Before I bled, the pedal was dead on the floor give or take 1/2". After bleeding, it's maybe 2-3" off the floor.

Bleed procedure is two person - cycle pedal from floor to stop multiple times, push to floor. Crack bleeder, close bleeder, wait a few seconds. Repeat pump.

Video attached showing the slave cylinder end..

I'm at a complete loss of what direction to take. Bad master? Bad Slave? Still air trapped somewhere in Narnia?

TIA!
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Old Sep 5, 2019 | 11:42 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by HokieZ
I'd been having a steadily progressing issue where the pedal wasn't returning all the way up. For the past several years, it would droop as the car sat for a long period of time, but a few pumps and lift of the foot and it would recover. I finally figured it was time to address it so went out and bought a new slave and master. Put them both on, and couldn't get fluid from the reservoir to the slave. In fact, it wouldn't even come out the master. Long story short, it the pedal wasn't coming out far enough to apparently let the fluid in, corrected that, bled it, and the pedal now stops about half way back up. Thought it might be a defective master, so put the old one back on, and same thing. I've bled this thing until I'm blue in the face, no air is coming out the screw. A couple of symptoms:

1) If I pull the pedal off the floor, it has steadily increasing force until it get's close to the top, then snaps to the top of the stroke. If I push down on it, it snaps back down to a level about 2-3" off the floor.
2) Pushing the pedal basically causes the slave cylinder to do almost nothing. The piston/fork are moving maybe 1/8" total, probably less.
3) Before I bled, the pedal was dead on the floor give or take 1/2". After bleeding, it's maybe 2-3" off the floor.

Bleed procedure is two person - cycle pedal from floor to stop multiple times, push to floor. Crack bleeder, close bleeder, wait a few seconds. Repeat pump.

Video attached showing the slave cylinder end..

I'm at a complete loss of what direction to take. Bad master? Bad Slave? Still air trapped somewhere in Narnia?

TIA!
Z's are notorious for trapping air in ALL of their hydraulic systems. Use a power bleeder. Works on both brakes and clutch systems.

https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...-prong-bleeder
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Old Sep 10, 2019 | 12:09 PM
  #3  
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In case anyone wonder why is so difficult to bleed clutch on 350Z, this is a reason:

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