Engine over heats when pressing the gas pedal
Just drove the car about half a mile with no overheating issues (no heater or ac was on) as soon as I got closer to my house the car started to get hotter on the temp gauge. When I checked the reservoir, it went from the max line to being almost full.
There is a small bleeder valve in the engine bay just outside the heater core. I take it off completely and use a funnel to prime the heater core till no more air bubbles escape. Replace valve cap and continue bleeding the radiator as any other car. I haven't had problems after this strategy in years.
There is a small bleeder valve in the engine bay just outside the heater core. I take it off completely and use a funnel to prime the heater core till no more air bubbles escape. Replace valve cap and continue bleeding the radiator as any other car. I haven't had problems after this strategy in years.
Engine starts to over heat when I turn heater on full blast. I can drive a 1/4 then it starts to over heat as soon as the fans kick in. Fans work and thermostat is replaced. There’s so much pressure in the radiator hoses then when I bleed the coolant system the coolant is as cold as ***. Both hoses are nice and hot though. Please help.
coolant does go down so it’s sucking it up, the reservoir starts to over flow a bit. No heat in the cabin either. When I take the bleeder valve off the coolant comes out hot but it’s cold at the radiator and comes out cold from bottom of the radiator when draining.
ive bleed it at least 10 times and nothing is happening. I don’t think there is air in it still.
coolant does go down so it’s sucking it up, the reservoir starts to over flow a bit. No heat in the cabin either. When I take the bleeder valve off the coolant comes out hot but it’s cold at the radiator and comes out cold from bottom of the radiator when draining.
ive bleed it at least 10 times and nothing is happening. I don’t think there is air in it still.
Been burping the coolant line for days now. Today I rev’d it up to 6K rpm out of frustration and the cabin was blowing hot air... as soon as I took my foot off it went back to warm at most. Turned the car off to let it cool down because the fans were turning on. Went back to check the overflow tank and it was filled all the way up near the top.
should I keep burping the line?
Am I doing it the right way?
can someone give me a step by step for idiots for me because I’ve watched YouTube videos on it specifically for the Z and it’s just not cutting it.
should I keep burping the line?
Am I doing it the right way?
can someone give me a step by step for idiots for me because I’ve watched YouTube videos on it specifically for the Z and it’s just not cutting it.
It is recommended to jack the front of the car up a good distance, although I will admit that I have never done that. My driveway has a VERY slight incline and it is usually backed out of the garage into the driveway when I bleed. Ideally you want the radiator fill neck to be the highest point in the engine bay.
Stick your funnel into the fill neck and SLOWLY pour the coolant. Once the coolant is full and begins to enter the funnel, stop. Sometimes the coolant will bubble as air escapes and the level will go down. Just keep adding until it reaches the bottom of the funnel and stays there.
On the back heater hose next to the battery is a bleed valve. Carefully crack it and slowly add coolant until it begins to run over. Place the cap back on
Cap the radiator and enter the car. Start the car and rev it rev to 3k RPMs and hold it there for 10 seconds. Repeat that 3 times.
Turn the car off and allow the car to cool down enough that it is safe to open the radiator cap (large fans help). Add coolant until it reaches the small hole where the overflow tank line connects.
Cap the radiator and repeat the above 2 steps 3 more times for 4 rev cycles total.
On the 3rd and 4th rev cycle I turn on the heater and crank it full blast while I do the revs.
That is what works for me.
Stick your funnel into the fill neck and SLOWLY pour the coolant. Once the coolant is full and begins to enter the funnel, stop. Sometimes the coolant will bubble as air escapes and the level will go down. Just keep adding until it reaches the bottom of the funnel and stays there.
On the back heater hose next to the battery is a bleed valve. Carefully crack it and slowly add coolant until it begins to run over. Place the cap back on
Cap the radiator and enter the car. Start the car and rev it rev to 3k RPMs and hold it there for 10 seconds. Repeat that 3 times.
Turn the car off and allow the car to cool down enough that it is safe to open the radiator cap (large fans help). Add coolant until it reaches the small hole where the overflow tank line connects.
Cap the radiator and repeat the above 2 steps 3 more times for 4 rev cycles total.
On the 3rd and 4th rev cycle I turn on the heater and crank it full blast while I do the revs.
That is what works for me.
It is recommended to jack the front of the car up a good distance, although I will admit that I have never done that. My driveway has a VERY slight incline and it is usually backed out of the garage into the driveway when I bleed. Ideally you want the radiator fill neck to be the highest point in the engine bay.
Stick your funnel into the fill neck and SLOWLY pour the coolant. Once the coolant is full and begins to enter the funnel, stop. Sometimes the coolant will bubble as air escapes and the level will go down. Just keep adding until it reaches the bottom of the funnel and stays there.
On the back heater hose next to the battery is a bleed valve. Carefully crack it and slowly add coolant until it begins to run over. Place the cap back on
Cap the radiator and enter the car. Start the car and rev it rev to 3k RPMs and hold it there for 10 seconds. Repeat that 3 times.
Turn the car off and allow the car to cool down enough that it is safe to open the radiator cap (large fans help). Add coolant until it reaches the small hole where the overflow tank line connects.
Cap the radiator and repeat the above 2 steps 3 more times for 4 rev cycles total.
On the 3rd and 4th rev cycle I turn on the heater and crank it full blast while I do the revs.
That is what works for me.
Stick your funnel into the fill neck and SLOWLY pour the coolant. Once the coolant is full and begins to enter the funnel, stop. Sometimes the coolant will bubble as air escapes and the level will go down. Just keep adding until it reaches the bottom of the funnel and stays there.
On the back heater hose next to the battery is a bleed valve. Carefully crack it and slowly add coolant until it begins to run over. Place the cap back on
Cap the radiator and enter the car. Start the car and rev it rev to 3k RPMs and hold it there for 10 seconds. Repeat that 3 times.
Turn the car off and allow the car to cool down enough that it is safe to open the radiator cap (large fans help). Add coolant until it reaches the small hole where the overflow tank line connects.
Cap the radiator and repeat the above 2 steps 3 more times for 4 rev cycles total.
On the 3rd and 4th rev cycle I turn on the heater and crank it full blast while I do the revs.
That is what works for me.
So I followed your steps exactly the way you typed it and I blasted the heater on the 3rd cycle (my car is on rhino ramps so it’s pretty angled) and I only got heat when revving up to 3K rpm. So I kept the cycle going and after the 5th rev cycle I took it for a test drive after letting it cool down. My reservoir over filled and I over heated 50 ft away from my house still with no heat.
maybe my radiator is clogged ?
maybe do I need a new water pump?
Or should I just keep burping it non stop?
maybe my radiator is clogged ?
maybe do I need a new water pump?
Or should I just keep burping it non stop?
Is the bottom radiator hose getting hot? If so, the chances of a clogged radiator are very minimal.
Check on the block on the driver's side behind the ac compressor. That is the location for the weep hole for the water pump. If you see any dried "crust" then that would be a sign that the water pump is failing or has failed.
Check on the block on the driver's side behind the ac compressor. That is the location for the weep hole for the water pump. If you see any dried "crust" then that would be a sign that the water pump is failing or has failed.
Is the bottom radiator hose getting hot? If so, the chances of a clogged radiator are very minimal.
Check on the block on the driver's side behind the ac compressor. That is the location for the weep hole for the water pump. If you see any dried "crust" then that would be a sign that the water pump is failing or has failed.
Check on the block on the driver's side behind the ac compressor. That is the location for the weep hole for the water pump. If you see any dried "crust" then that would be a sign that the water pump is failing or has failed.
I was working on the car when it was about 60 degrees outside and the car wasn’t putting out thicc white smoke but the exhaust is leaking.
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chue350z
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Dec 25, 2014 11:16 PM




