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I have a 350Z from 2004 with a Vortech which develops 460hp.
A year ago my OEM radiator exploded (the plastic above) while I was driving quietly. I deduced that it was old and brittle.
I replaced it with a radiator and Mishimoto fans, new OEM thermostat but since then I have always had problems with coolant backflow when I push hard until 6600rpm, the 2nd, 3rd, 4th ...
My mechanic did the test of the cylinder head gasket with the reagent but nothing to report
For other reasons I had not driven for a long time, I purged for a long time with an anti-spill funnel. I don't seem to have any air, but I didn't push too hard on the car.
Yesterday I found myself in heavy traffic for 30 minutes,The gauge in the car is just below half, normal. Here are the temperatures recorded with an infrared thermometer and on the mishimoto cap fitted with a temperature gauge :
I measured 88 ° C / 190 ° F on the top of the radiator (the plug gauge does not seem precise)
I think that cap is not accurate. I have a dual pass radiator and mishi thermo and I get 178 while idle in traffic with stock fans.
I originally ran into the issue where I could not bleed out the air well enough and my temps were going 190 200 idle. I got the front wheels up, and rebled the system. Finally I got the temps to go down, took me about 3-4 bleeds.
DO NOT go off the gauge on the radiator. If you want to know exactly what your car is doing get an OBD2 reader that can display live data and watch your coolant temps. The gauge in the car is fairly accurate, remember you want your engine to run ~200* this burns out the condensation in your oil. My G35 runs just under the half way tick as well, I would only be concerned if the needle is 1/4" or move above the half way tick.