Pp/clutch/fw & rear main seal
Hey all, its my first time changing the pp/clutch/fw and i just wanted to ask a few questions.
When i drop the transmission, do i need to have drained the trans fluid beforehand?
For the rear main seal, do i need to have drained the engine oil beforehand?
Since my z is an 03 i will be changing out the stamped steel fork for the cast iron one. are all sides of the spring supposed to be sitting in the groove? or have the top tab part out? I know i will have to replace the taller pivot ball for the shorter one in order to use the new iron fork, but I have also watched a vid on someone snapping the old pivot ball. should using an impact to get the old one out eliminate the risk of snapping it?
When i drop the transmission, do i need to have drained the trans fluid beforehand?
For the rear main seal, do i need to have drained the engine oil beforehand?
Since my z is an 03 i will be changing out the stamped steel fork for the cast iron one. are all sides of the spring supposed to be sitting in the groove? or have the top tab part out? I know i will have to replace the taller pivot ball for the shorter one in order to use the new iron fork, but I have also watched a vid on someone snapping the old pivot ball. should using an impact to get the old one out eliminate the risk of snapping it?
For replacing the rear main seal, yes to draining the engine oil.
For dropping the transmission, I suppose you don't need to drain the fluid, but it's probably a good time to do so (and it will make it a little lighter).
I'm not sure about the steel fork installation since I didn't need to worry about that on my '05.
I think you'll be fine removing the pivot ball with an impact. Just don't get crazy on it and you should not shear it off.
For dropping the transmission, I suppose you don't need to drain the fluid, but it's probably a good time to do so (and it will make it a little lighter).
I'm not sure about the steel fork installation since I didn't need to worry about that on my '05.
I think you'll be fine removing the pivot ball with an impact. Just don't get crazy on it and you should not shear it off.
I reused my steel fork, I'm not sure why you would want cast iron over steel. Sounds like a gimmick. The swap to cast iron over steel was to save money as it is much cheaper to make a cast iron part vs steel.
I did not empty my transmission fluid.
I would think an impact would have a greater chance of snapping
I did not empty my transmission fluid.
I would think an impact would have a greater chance of snapping
The steel clutch fork was/is cheaper. It was made from stamped/folded sheet steel and is prone to flexing/fatigue when used for heavier duty clutches. Going for the cast iron replacement is a natural upgrade, it's solid/robust and does not flex, it can easily handle the forces exhibited with upgraded clutches (pressure plates). Upgrading the pivot ball is also highly recommended. Even Z32TT guys replace the stamped steel clutch fork with the cast iron unit.
Drain the transmission before removal. The fluid will flow out the tail shaft if you tip it back. This happened to me and a buddy once when we serviced the clutch on his 88 RX7. We were swimming in gear oil on our backs.
Cheers!
-Icer
Drain the transmission before removal. The fluid will flow out the tail shaft if you tip it back. This happened to me and a buddy once when we serviced the clutch on his 88 RX7. We were swimming in gear oil on our backs.

Cheers!
-Icer
Dude gear oil is the worst
OP, I've heard the rear main is a pita to line up correctly, good luck! Did you get new flywheel bolts? You'll also need a hand pump or something for the trans fluid refill. It's a pain but worth avoiding the other headache.
OP, I've heard the rear main is a pita to line up correctly, good luck! Did you get new flywheel bolts? You'll also need a hand pump or something for the trans fluid refill. It's a pain but worth avoiding the other headache.
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