ECU problems??????
I have come to this side of the pond hoping that you guys can advise me.
Seems to be far more knowledge here about the Z than in the UK.
I have had to reset my ECU 7 times yesterday (yes seven).
So come on all you experts give me some clues as to why.
If I give the car plenty of stick the check engine light comes on.
Did my first track day on Sunday and had to reset the thing after almost every run. (I was actually crap at it but that's another story)
I am going to take the Z back to my dealer ASAP for them to look at it even though I have no faith in them.
In the mean time I would like opinions off some of you with knowledge in this department.
A fix would be nice other than that help or advice would be appreciated.
Steve
Seems to be far more knowledge here about the Z than in the UK.
I have had to reset my ECU 7 times yesterday (yes seven).
So come on all you experts give me some clues as to why.
If I give the car plenty of stick the check engine light comes on.
Did my first track day on Sunday and had to reset the thing after almost every run. (I was actually crap at it but that's another story)
I am going to take the Z back to my dealer ASAP for them to look at it even though I have no faith in them.
In the mean time I would like opinions off some of you with knowledge in this department.
A fix would be nice other than that help or advice would be appreciated.
Steve
Make sure the light is on when you take your car in. Say you drive it into the bay and it is on dont turn the cr off, make them check it while the light is on.
If the car feels fine power wise, I would bet its the wheel sensor on your car that is bad. It happened on our brick Z.
If the car feels fine power wise, I would bet its the wheel sensor on your car that is bad. It happened on our brick Z.
We dont have the wheel sensors on the UK spec cars so that rules that one out.
The mods have all been fitted in the past couple of months and the car was starting to feel quicker all the time.
Not now though since I did the reset
The mods have all been fitted in the past couple of months and the car was starting to feel quicker all the time.
Not now though since I did the reset
I believe there's a known problem with certain ECU for the Z. It has to do with the Throttle Position Sensor, if I recalled correctly. Technosquare has a fix for this. Do a search. I believe Chebosto had a discussion about this.
what version ECU/ when did you get the car?
the earlier ECUs had a problem with lateral G forces and the throttle position.., it would basically send the car into limp mode, and it happened to some cars that were on the track... your dealer should know about this problem- and reflash you to the latest factory version of the software-
this is what i wrote back in July of 03
"Also a few members might have expereienced some crap out of the ECU when taking the Z on the track and taking high speed turns.. if you experienced this, this might be the cause of the throttle body sensor failing and sending the ECU to goto fail safe mode and rev no higher than 3k.. this is due to the repetitive vibration on the tb sensor, and in the CD000, and CD0001 ECUs, this will auto trip the fail sensor codes in the ECU... it only needs to sense this bad vibration once and it will go to limp mode... the G forces of the vibrations are telling the ECU that the TB is failing.. the CD002 version ECU has implimented a new code that senses the vibrations ,but will only trip the ECU for a TB fail if the vibrations are severe and look for multiple occurances instead of just a 1 time deal before sending the ECU to fail safe."
ask your dealer to check which version ECU you have-
the earlier ECUs had a problem with lateral G forces and the throttle position.., it would basically send the car into limp mode, and it happened to some cars that were on the track... your dealer should know about this problem- and reflash you to the latest factory version of the software-
this is what i wrote back in July of 03
"Also a few members might have expereienced some crap out of the ECU when taking the Z on the track and taking high speed turns.. if you experienced this, this might be the cause of the throttle body sensor failing and sending the ECU to goto fail safe mode and rev no higher than 3k.. this is due to the repetitive vibration on the tb sensor, and in the CD000, and CD0001 ECUs, this will auto trip the fail sensor codes in the ECU... it only needs to sense this bad vibration once and it will go to limp mode... the G forces of the vibrations are telling the ECU that the TB is failing.. the CD002 version ECU has implimented a new code that senses the vibrations ,but will only trip the ECU for a TB fail if the vibrations are severe and look for multiple occurances instead of just a 1 time deal before sending the ECU to fail safe."
ask your dealer to check which version ECU you have-
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I had a crappy ECU problem.
It would work fine for the first 2 month of the car, then all the sudden the ECU crap out.
The engine will not rev pass 2500 RPM.
Everytime I try, it seem like it's joking and bog down really bad.
No check engine lights though.
It turn out the ECU was sending signal out correctly, but not receiving signal. So it was forcing the engine to run super Rich.
Anyhow.. to make things worse, they did not have an ECU anywhere in US, and cannot take one of another new car since there are 26 version of the ECU.
I waited 28 days to get a new ECU from factory of Japans.
Talking about maintainability.
It would work fine for the first 2 month of the car, then all the sudden the ECU crap out.
The engine will not rev pass 2500 RPM.
Everytime I try, it seem like it's joking and bog down really bad.
No check engine lights though.
It turn out the ECU was sending signal out correctly, but not receiving signal. So it was forcing the engine to run super Rich.
Anyhow.. to make things worse, they did not have an ECU anywhere in US, and cannot take one of another new car since there are 26 version of the ECU.
I waited 28 days to get a new ECU from factory of Japans.
Talking about maintainability.
If the ECU error code you get is a 0605, then have the dealer check the coolant temp sensor and replace if faulty. It's a fairly easy sensor to replace and shouldn't take more than 30 mins (IIRC).
Droideka had his ECU replaced twice. By luck, he was able to reproduce the problem while a Z tech was w/ him and logging data w/ CONSULT-II. Turned out that the coolant temp sensor would fluctuate from "normal" temp to an abnormally low temp and that threw the ECU into limp mode.
Good luck.
Michael.
Droideka had his ECU replaced twice. By luck, he was able to reproduce the problem while a Z tech was w/ him and logging data w/ CONSULT-II. Turned out that the coolant temp sensor would fluctuate from "normal" temp to an abnormally low temp and that threw the ECU into limp mode.
Good luck.
Michael.
Thanks for all the info so far.
The car is not going into limp mode as it wil rev all the way to the limiter.
When the CEL comes on and you do a reset does that put the ecu back to its original settings?????
Techno square inform me that the US ecu is different to the UK one.
I was going to get them to upgrade mine to suit my mods but it looks like the idea has gone **** up
The car is not going into limp mode as it wil rev all the way to the limiter.
When the CEL comes on and you do a reset does that put the ecu back to its original settings?????
Techno square inform me that the US ecu is different to the UK one.
I was going to get them to upgrade mine to suit my mods but it looks like the idea has gone **** up
Thanks for all those who have tried to give me reasons for the CEL coming on.
Had the thing checked out by my dealer today and they found the problem. Which they charged me for.
Can not or wont post on here yet what the problem is untill I have had a reply from a vendor I have mailed.
Had the thing checked out by my dealer today and they found the problem. Which they charged me for.
Can not or wont post on here yet what the problem is untill I have had a reply from a vendor I have mailed.
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