04-bell-Z

"WOW ur lucky and should be gratefull ur dad bought u this car no matter if its an auto."

I think that i have already said that i pay for the payments... Did i not?

Speedracer... thanks for the advice and info

Road Warrior

iTrader: (16)

bellz,

you not only did you get out driven....but your car is freaky slow...and your only 18 so that accounts for the attitude

you should still be grateful that you don't have to pay insurance....thats got to be expensive given the car, your age, and the fact that your a male driver (albeit not a very good one)

sausage5000

do you really think the 5 speed auto shifts into 2nd sooner than the 6 speed manual? the gears seem extremely short, i can't see how a 5 speed auto could be anywhere close.

04-bell-Z

"you not only did you get out driven....but your car is freaky slow...and your only 18 so that accounts for the attitude"

Whats up with these Cali ppl? You must be a winner yourself talking $hit to an 18 yr old.

coachk

iTrader: (21)

04-bell-z,

Don't get discouraged about your 5AT,just keep saving your money for some good mods and practice your driving skills and before you know it you will be beating the manuals. not all manual drivers, but a good bunch of them don,t know how to launch their cars and usually sit their and spin their tires while your already half way down the road.

Amnbex

Put in a highstall TC. From then on any manual can bend over and kiss their *** goodbye. I hear a good TC is good for .5 secs off your 1/4.

coachk

iTrader: (21)

Edge TC with a stall around 3000, now thats a good mod.......

zzzya

iTrader: (2)

Um whatever

First off, from a roll you may have been at a disadvantage against the 6MT depending on which gear you were in and where your rpms were at since the 6MT gearing is more forgiving (closer gears, more aggressive final drive) of where you are at in the rpm range. Also, it doesn't take much of a reaction difference for someone to end up a car length ahead right off the bat while at a roll or from a stop. Its really only fair when there is some third party giving the signal to go!!

As for what Speedracer said, your mods are good for more than 6-7HP. Your peak HP might have increased 8-10hp but your AUC (area under the curve) should be much improved especially above 4k rpms to redline where you should be seeing a 15hp or more increase. You do not need cams to get a peak 40hp increase. In fact I would wait for cams until one at least has their intake and exhaust mods completed with a good set of headers included. Then adding cams will be a more noticable increase and you will not feel like the $1000 for cams + the extra $1000 for their installation was a waste. There is no doubt cams will make a difference, but I still do not have cams, no TQ converter, no Drag radials or slicks, and no change in the final drive. My car pulls like mad and I am running mid 13s with 19" street tires. I am going to put the stock 17s back on this weekend and hopefully hit low 13s. If the information about the TQ converter is true I am hoping for around 12.7s maybe even lower with some DRs.

04-bell-Z

Aright what do u think a good TC goes for and what brand makes the best?

Thanks alot for the help also

hfm

iTrader: (1)

Injen CAI
UR Crank Pulley
Crawford Plenum

My guess, injen contributes 1-2 hp. Crank pully 3-5 hp. Plenum 3-5 hp. Combined, maybe 6-10. Drive train loss between stock 5AT v. 6MT, probably 10-15 hp. Varriable difference between VQ motors, 5-8 hp. Add it up, and the loss is no surprise at all.

For a AT to beat a MT, I would think that mods of 20+ hp on the AT v a stock MT is necessary. And, it's not going to happen with just an intake, pulley and plenum.

bascelik

Doesn't high-stall TC make for an uncomfortable daily driver? Think about it: you wish to start slow, but the thing won't hook up until 3K RPM... *JERK*... and you chirp-start... I don't wish to contemplate how it switches between gears when upper gear drops RPM below 3K... another chirp?

04-bell-Z

good thought... i havent really looked into TC's let alone seen any for the Z

zzzya

iTrader: (2)

No, there are different definitions of stall and at what point the TC will start to lock thus turning the driveshaft. A TC can be built for street applications thus not hindering daily drivability. The main advantage of a good TC for daily drivers would be a more efficient TC. What this would translate to is less power loss from the crank through the transmission to the rear wheels. A good torque converter will make the 5AT more efficient than the 6MT.

Zmego1985

iTrader: (1)

I must say im lucky when i dynoed on the dynojet my z with just a Frankencar intake was getting 240 hp at the wheels and i am a auto. I know you manual guys are in my ball park. I later installed the underdrivepulley, grounding kit and injen daul exhaust so i must have more now.

Glen

Speedracer

I stand behind my claims about the numbers I have quoted. This is fairly highly tuned street engine to begin with. I do agree with your statement about "the area under the curve", but it still only represents a small increase in power. And...I never said anything about just buying cams without doing all the other appropriate stuff first. Cams are spec'd to give a 15-20 hp power boost....but that won't happen without a good set of headers, at the very least. In any case, if you can show me a dyno graph before/after of the same car on the same dyno with the same air temp, that demonstrates a 40hp NA gain without cams, I would love to see it. And...it needs to be an independant test, not one from a product manufacturer. Hey...I've been doing this tuning stuff for 20 years since I got my first Mustang 5.0 back in high school.

Aggro_Al

Not to flame. But, did you think that your buddy just drove better than you.

Don't blame the car. Your mods are pretty much insignificant when compared to a completely stock engine and the automatic and the manual have equal performance. Doesn't matter what tranny you got, the better driver will win stock for stock.

zzzya

iTrader: (2)

People simply put too much stock into "Peak" HP numbers. Its a combination of AUC and proper gearing to take advantage of that power that makes a difference, especially on the road. I could take a stock 5AT against a heavily modded 6MT, drop a 350EVO final drive in the 5AT and smoke the 6MT all day long with much less HP. Peak HP is a fun number but that is all. As far as being highly tuned stock, well sure it isn't too bad given the stock parts. I have decreased my 1/4 mile times by 0.7 seconds, which includes going from a 17" wheel setup to a 19" wheel setup, street tires. I added a couple new mods and will see just how well the car responds. Still no cams yet, just can't seem to find it in me to give someone $1,000 for the install.

04-bell-Z

Yeah i know he is a better driver than me... But seriously, how can u become a better driver when you have an auto... all u have to do is slap shift... how much better can u get at that?

JonsilvZ

Just look at my sig. Stock Z in manual mode running high 13s. I raced a guy who had a 6spd Z w CAI(ran 13.5). He got me by a 1/2 car to 100 about 1/4 mile. I wish I had the same axle ratio as the 6spd 3.35vs 3.55 manual. Oh he was powershifting.

eskimo

I hate it when people make up acronyms, it's called the integral. Not AUC, or whatever else you can make up. wtf mate