Review: Tilton Twin Plate Carbon/Carbon Clutch & Flywheel
04-04-2005, 04:22 AM
#44
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Well, as it turned out, both of my plates were completely burnt out. Tilton's engineer asked why I hadn't changed to the other metal spacer plates, as the wear progressed. I told him the clutch had only been in the car for 2 weeks. He was pretty shocked, to say the least. The've smoothed the plates out and reground the whole assembly, so its now as good as new...but with only about 30% of its life left.
As it turned out, the whole thing had been setup wrongly. Distances were out and the clutch had been constantly wearing while the engine was running. The mechanic who installed it is no longer in the country, so I'm left with a half knackered clutch and a car that still doesn't run properly. Oooooooooooh well...you live and learn...
As it turned out, the whole thing had been setup wrongly. Distances were out and the clutch had been constantly wearing while the engine was running. The mechanic who installed it is no longer in the country, so I'm left with a half knackered clutch and a car that still doesn't run properly. Oooooooooooh well...you live and learn...
04-04-2005, 07:42 AM
#45
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I installed mine myself....whats do you mean the distances were out??? just want to make sure I did it right....I really dot have any problems besides the Clutch squealing sometimes........And when me and a friend did this install this was the first time I had done it.....
Does the Carbon setup squeal too???
Does the Carbon setup squeal too???
04-05-2005, 12:54 AM
#46
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Didn't really have the clutch in for long. No squealing as far as I remember but it used to make a helluva lot of noise at idle, when it warmed up. The term cement mixer has been used? It used to get a lot louder, when it warmed up, too...
The two suggestions we've had over my problems were that there was too much play on the cylinder, which meant that as it all warmed up, the cylinder pushed out and left the clutch partially engaged, all the time. It also kinda explained why the bite point used to move further up as it got hotter, until the pedal was rock hard.
Second suggestion was the distances/tolerances between the thrust bearing and the other bits (I'm so technical =/ ) was meant to be 0.02" according to the instructions and mine looked like it had been set to about 0.65", which again meant the clutch was permanently engaged, leading to rapid wear.
The two suggestions we've had over my problems were that there was too much play on the cylinder, which meant that as it all warmed up, the cylinder pushed out and left the clutch partially engaged, all the time. It also kinda explained why the bite point used to move further up as it got hotter, until the pedal was rock hard.
Second suggestion was the distances/tolerances between the thrust bearing and the other bits (I'm so technical =/ ) was meant to be 0.02" according to the instructions and mine looked like it had been set to about 0.65", which again meant the clutch was permanently engaged, leading to rapid wear.
04-05-2005, 05:18 AM
#47
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The tilton Carbon clutch is meant to be adjusted about every 3000 miles or the gaps between plates can be off and cause premature wear. One big reason I didn't go with thiat clutch.
04-05-2005, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by pyroteknix
$3569.95 + Shipping
04-05-2005, 11:01 PM
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It was only in for ~500 miles, though. Next time, I'll make sure its setup correctly, or someone else is going to be paying for it. Just got to collect the new Z and get it run in, before I start modding it.
04-06-2005, 05:19 AM
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The carbon is perfectly streetable if its setup correctly. Takes a couple of days to get used to, maybe even a week but after that, its fine to drive, every day.
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