ARP Rod bolts out for the VQ35
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The engine does not need to come apart to change the bolts. They can be accessed via removal of the bottom cover. I ahve already mentioned that several Maxima owners have missed shifts and zinged these things past 9000rpm and none have tossed a rod. Even the TS ECU test Maxima revved to 7500 on the stock bolts/rods.
SR20DEN - if you get a chance, send one of the stock rods to your machinist friend and have him look it over. Any engine builder worth his salt will tell if it's worth upgrading them or whether race prepping and lightening will work out. I for one am curious to know, as I am sure others are!
I know on my othe Z (280ZX turbo), I spared no expense during its engine build - it literally has the best of everything, and nearly the entire head was a custom affair to get hte cfm's we were looking for. However, our engine builder, who has been building Nissan motors for 25 years now, told me with confidence that there was no need for forged rods....I took his advice (not being one to spend $$ without merit), and am glad I did - saved a good amount of money and the rods have been terrific to date !
Not sure how the VQ stacks up in comparison, but it will be great to hear an expert opinion
adam
I know on my othe Z (280ZX turbo), I spared no expense during its engine build - it literally has the best of everything, and nearly the entire head was a custom affair to get hte cfm's we were looking for. However, our engine builder, who has been building Nissan motors for 25 years now, told me with confidence that there was no need for forged rods....I took his advice (not being one to spend $$ without merit), and am glad I did - saved a good amount of money and the rods have been terrific to date !
Not sure how the VQ stacks up in comparison, but it will be great to hear an expert opinion
adam
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It could be. But the question is was it the rods or the rod bolts that snapped. A year ago they were telling me that they got their info from other people and not doing their own testing on that.
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And I just got this email in from Eagle when I inquired about them making rods for the VQ35.
"Matthew,
They are in development. Expect to see them available early next year.
Retail price should be about $600 per set.
Thanks."
"Matthew,
They are in development. Expect to see them available early next year.
Retail price should be about $600 per set.
Thanks."
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Well they released the info today. The next revision of the VQ35 for the 350Z will have stronger rods and bolts.
"- Horsepower, when equipped with the manual transmission, is 300 – exactly double that of the original Z
- Torque is 260 lb-ft, versus 148 on the 240Z
- The engine is the new higher performance version of the standard 350Z VQ engine
- Modifications made to achieve 300 horsepower include:
- strengthened connecting rods and bolts
- double-mass crank pulley
- revised shape of the piston head
- new camshaft profile, remapped ECM and more"
"- Horsepower, when equipped with the manual transmission, is 300 – exactly double that of the original Z
- Torque is 260 lb-ft, versus 148 on the 240Z
- The engine is the new higher performance version of the standard 350Z VQ engine
- Modifications made to achieve 300 horsepower include:
- strengthened connecting rods and bolts
- double-mass crank pulley
- revised shape of the piston head
- new camshaft profile, remapped ECM and more"
I think I'm getting ready to tear mine apart to replace the rings. I wonder when the new nissan parts will be out. We can get stock pistons for about 50 each and rods for about 120, IIRC, perhaps the new ones will be about the same price.
SR20DEN:
As you mentioned, we don't need to tear the engine apart to change the rods... does that mean that we don't need to take the engine out of the engine bay as well? Or you reckon it will be better to take the engine out?!
And how long do you reckon it will take to just change the bolts for a pro. shop? Thanks!
cheers,
richie
As you mentioned, we don't need to tear the engine apart to change the rods... does that mean that we don't need to take the engine out of the engine bay as well? Or you reckon it will be better to take the engine out?!
And how long do you reckon it will take to just change the bolts for a pro. shop? Thanks!
cheers,
richie
Originally posted by SR20DEN
If you tear it down you should install some lower compression pistons. Why do all that work for just the rings?
If you tear it down you should install some lower compression pistons. Why do all that work for just the rings?
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Originally posted by Z350Lover
SR20DEN:
As you mentioned, we don't need to tear the engine apart to change the rods... does that mean that we don't need to take the engine out of the engine bay as well? Or you reckon it will be better to take the engine out?!
And how long do you reckon it will take to just change the bolts for a pro. shop? Thanks!
cheers,
richie
SR20DEN:
As you mentioned, we don't need to tear the engine apart to change the rods... does that mean that we don't need to take the engine out of the engine bay as well? Or you reckon it will be better to take the engine out?!
And how long do you reckon it will take to just change the bolts for a pro. shop? Thanks!
cheers,
richie
$200 bucks seems like cheap insurance even if you don't regularly rev over 7000. I recently hit 7800 in my Z on a bad downshift at Road America. Came in around 135mph down shifted for the corner and did not slow down enough before I let the clutch out. The throttle blip did almost nothing as I saw the tach zoom up over 7500!!
Is there any risks of installing the ARP bolts?
BTW, SR20 nice time on the Maxima! You've got more e.t. in there with a trap speed of 107 too.
Is there any risks of installing the ARP bolts?
BTW, SR20 nice time on the Maxima! You've got more e.t. in there with a trap speed of 107 too.
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Originally posted by zillinois
$200 bucks seems like cheap insurance even if you don't regularly rev over 7000. I recently hit 7800 in my Z on a bad downshift at Road America. Came in around 135mph down shifted for the corner and did not slow down enough before I let the clutch out. The throttle blip did almost nothing as I saw the tach zoom up over 7500!!
Is there any risks of installing the ARP bolts?
BTW, SR20 nice time on the Maxima! You've got more e.t. in there with a trap speed of 107 too.
$200 bucks seems like cheap insurance even if you don't regularly rev over 7000. I recently hit 7800 in my Z on a bad downshift at Road America. Came in around 135mph down shifted for the corner and did not slow down enough before I let the clutch out. The throttle blip did almost nothing as I saw the tach zoom up over 7500!!
Is there any risks of installing the ARP bolts?
BTW, SR20 nice time on the Maxima! You've got more e.t. in there with a trap speed of 107 too.
Originally posted by SR20DEN
Thanks!! The car is faster now than it was last March when I ran that time/trap. Im working on a few more tweaks before I go back to hopefully get a 12.99 NA.
Thanks!! The car is faster now than it was last March when I ran that time/trap. Im working on a few more tweaks before I go back to hopefully get a 12.99 NA.




