After reading tons of threads between this board and the FI sub-board, i'm still at a loss for deciding what internals I might want to go with.

- Starting with a stock block/head.
- I definitely want to increase the displacement
- I do not want to lose the upper part of the rpm range (i frequent the 6krpm range, but never really edge into the 7krpm territory)
- This is a daily driver vehicle, but I frequently drive it quite hard (slight drift around corners most of the time and lots of time at WOT is the best way to describe it. I'm getting ready to replace the brembos at only 10k mi. with zero track days.)
- My pockets are not limitless (even while i'm tax free in the sandbox, salaries aren't huge), but I will definitely put the required $ into making an engine bulletproof, no skimping.
- Goals for the car are to remain a daily driver, lighten the internals as much as feasible while maintaining strength. Even though I'm increasing displacement, I want to leave the option for FI open, but I really, really want to make the engine bombproof at any rpm-range up to redline.
- I'd be looking to do this / get it done professionally when the salt comes off the roads next spring (upstate NY... yeah, i'm moving right now).

A couple questions:
- Do titanium rods have any history of shearing/snapping when it is cold outside? I just remember a Ti. lax stick I had years ago that cleanly sheared (yeah, i was slashing someone, stfu ) when it was ~10F outside. Will I need a block warmer? Not that I plan on driving at all in the winter, but i'll need to start it up once in a while to make sure the fuel/oil doesn't settle or seperate.
- I know that removing mass from specific internals such as rods and pistons can help increase power in the engine, any specific benefits? Unless I go to a few driving schools, as much as I want it, I don't trust myself with over 450rwhp... i'd probably end up as a tree's bowtie one day. My buddy's 996TT is about the most power I've ever driven. But if I do decide to go with FI later on, you'll probably find me at school for a month or two
- What in the way of top-end internals (such as valvestems, injectors, fuel system, management, springs, longer duration cams, etc.)
- Oh, and a random Q... anyone know where i can get a surplus 1026-series HMMWV? I need a nice winter/mud truck

thanks in advance!

 

noone?

 

I believe titanium rods are over 4 grand for a set, so if your pockets are not limitless, you probably want forged aluminum rods.

 

Titanium also has a reputation of cracking over repeated cycles of heating and cooling, although I presume the Ti internals have been conditioned for this.

I would have more piece of mind going with Forged aluminum myself...

 

good points, both

looks like i'll be going with forged aluminum

maybe i should get more details on the AEBS stroker kit

 

"Forged Alumium" rods are for top fuel dragsters, were the long blocks are re-built regularly. They are not durable enough for extended boosted street/strip use. I think what you want are forged "chro-molly steel" rods, ie Pauter , Carillo, Eagle etc.


These are what nearly everybody is using on built and boosted VQ35s. I think epople get confused when the ysee "the word "billet" in the description. Billet does not imply Aluminum.

For example (the type of rod you want):

http://www.pauter.com/4340_rods.htm

Type of rod which costs too much and is huge over-kill fo your application.

http://www.pauter.com/titanium.htm

You "Do Not" want these:

http://www.bmeltd.com/rods.htm

 

sounds good, thanks!