im wondering how a clutch kit has managed to damage your leg. care to explain any further?

 

DOoke

sorry for my crappy post I just wanted some feedback fast. I got the kit off of import parts pro and ever since I got it installed I pretty much developed a "condition" in my left leg sorrounding my knee. The pedal seems like it should be for a 1000hp car, not a barely over 300hp car. If you check out that link here in my post you will see a step by step for installing a new resivoir ect.. Did you have this done? Advice/problems with your clutch kit ect? Idk what else to really say but be careful if you buy it, or my mech just screwed it up. And it honestly feels like i deveolped arthritis in my leg from this. my quad and knee area are constantly having muscle tantrums but it never seems to strengthen up heal and get better. I do drive a stick sentra as well and am going to have to sell it soon if this leg keeps up and get a auto. thanks for the reply ttyl





I love the chattering sound and do not understand why people complain about a cool loud engine/flywheel. My post kinda sucked so sorry for that. My problem is with the clutch, it is so stiff and my leg is bothering me right now and I havent driven it for the whole winter. I was hoping that the physical therapy would help me but it like it jusdt never has time to heal becuase I am always driving to skoo or work or somewhere. Idk what the hell is with the clutch, i am taking her straight to the dealer to have the old pressure plate put back in as soon as the weather gets better. and,

bjjbadboy

WHere did you have yours done? Did you do it yourself? Maybe your mech can call mine and tell him he is missing a step, a la

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drive...voir-swap.html


did you have your resivoir swapped out or whatever? How long have you had your lutch too ect. I dont even have 10k on my car with the jwt combo. Did you get the ss clutch line as well too? I did

Your clutch makes noise?lol

 

someone screwed up somewhere man. i have never heard of a clutch being so stiff that it gave someone problems with the leg/knee. you might want to ask your mechanic what he did.

 

hey sorry havent been on this thread in a while its easier if you pm me I forget where and what I post lol.

i did my clutch myself. no did not change the resovior do not see why to unless its cracked?? its not gonna make the pedal any softer..imo..

I did change to a ss line and little foggy but the reason was to give it a stiffer more stock feel otherwise could feel a little mushy(I could be backwards on this not 100%)

yeah there is some chatter when the car is first turned on then mostly gone after like 2 mins not even fully warm, then sounds really close to stock. but its always going to be a little bit loud bc stock is the 2 piece flywheel jwt 1 and lighter=chatter..

overall is not nearly as bad as others made it seem to me which makes me happy i always except the worst then when its ok im stoked.

worst part of the install was bleeding the sob clutch!!!!

 

so for all of these clutches that chatter like crazy, you're saying the sound goes away once the car is warmed up?

are there any lightweight flywheels that dont chatter? or do they all since they are one piece vs. the stock 2 piece design? what exactly is it that's making this "chatter" noise?

 

Great write up!

 

Great write up brother, just used it as a guide to do mine. Def wasn't a easy job, but all in all wasn't too bad either.

 

Mine is opposite. Chatter gets worse as trans oil warms up (and thins out), which makes more sense. the chatter is actually gear lash not the flywheel itself. That's why it goes away with the clutch depressed.

 

I am in the process of replacing my stock clutch and flywheel with the JWT setup. Two questions I have are: Is it absolutely neccessary to replace the original pilot bushing if there is not much wear visible and also, my clutch kit came with a nismo pilot needle bearing to replace the stock pilot bushing. But after test fitting it on the input shaft on the trans, there seems to be excessive play as if the bearing diameter is slightly larger than it should be. This leads me to believe it is best to leave the original copper bushing or replace it with a new copper factory bushing.

Any thoughts or comments are greatly appreciated
Thanks

 

Just registered to give my thanks to everyone who worked on this write-up! Good stuff! Was my first time ever changing a clutch and other than seized exhaust bolts, everything went very smooth. Did mine on jack stands in the driveway and had zero problems, even with little room to work laying down. Me being a n00b to the 350Z and sports cars in general (I've always been a truck guy and have an overhauled H2 SUT), I did not know the Z had a dual mass flywheel that couldn't be resurfaced. So my install was delayed a bit having to order the JWT flywheel and wait for it to come in; which brings me to my next point, the guys at Concept Z Performance were awesome and helped out a lot with my questions and fixed me up when I ordered the wrong size pivot ball for my Z. I will definitely be making future purchases from CZP. Thanks again guys! Was a great learning experience and if you have the tools and the knowledge readily available on this thread, I highly recommend tackling this project on your own!

 

Just finished swapping out my brocken flywheel. Before this the hardest thing I have done to my Z was swapping springs so that should tell you I'm no expert mechanic. I would have never done this myself if it wasn't for this thread.

Also, to answer some questions. Yes its very possible to do this on jackstands in a cramped garage. And no you dont need to be an expert mechanic to do this as long as you follow these steps.

Thanks for the great thread man

 

thanks jason and jg, i used this diy to install my clutch and flywheel.it was spot on.

 

I was told that if a flywheel in out of timing, sometimes the car will still start and NOT throw any codes and run only in open loop. Anyone experience that? I am seeing that with my car since I did the install but I have a few other things to check before the flywheel. The flywheel had a dowel pin hole and I did put it on to match the crankshaft dowel, I even have a picture I took. It is a F1 Racing flywheel which a lot of other people install. I have no issues with it as far as driving.

My car did run in closed loop a few times after install so I would guess it would not if it was off.

 

finished my jwt clutch/flywheel + cd009 trans install this weekend (first time doing anything like this). couple notes i'd give

1) don't spend time using the grease method to remove the pilot bushing. Rent a blind-hole puller from your local autozone/advanced autoparts/pepboys/etc.. This will take 2 seconds to get the pilot bushing out, and not leave a greasy mess.

2) i was concerned with getting the flywheel properly aligned and thought I may have some trouble with it since it wasn't completely clear to be. turns out it is incredibly simple. On the rear of the flywheel there is one small hole inbetween the holes for the flywheel bolts. this lines up with a very obvious spot on the crank side. a pin sort of thing in between where the flywheel bolts bolt in.

3) no press needed to get the new throw-out bearing on. can't claim it's a smart practice, but we did it using a couple wood blocks and a hammer (use your discretion when a hammer is involved).

also, not sure if this is normal or not, but my kit did not come with a clutch alignment tool. fortunately my buddy had one for the clutch install on his car. it was slightly smaller so we wrapped some masking tape around the part that held the pilot bushing and the part of the splines (testing fit with the old pilot bushing and clutch). got a nice snug fit and it worked perfectly.

these were my only concerns before i got started with the install, and the pilot bushing was the only thing that slowed me down since i was trying the grease method first. everything else is pretty simple.

thanks for the diy write-up. really helped with this install. no more 5th gear grind!

 

glad i found this!

 

Took me 2 days to do this but I'm glad there's a DIY.

 

So my friend a while back followed this 90ft lb then 93ft lb when torquing the fly bolts and broke the bolt in crank.

Went back to the service manual and found out its only 62-68 ft lb!

 

I just did my jwt kit after thanksgiving. The paper I got with mine clearly states 70-75ft lbs.

 

Now im a pretty good at diy and I do all the work for my car but I was wondering what would the time frame be to do this? I dont have a life but I have all other tools e.g. sockets, impact wrench, all other air tools jack and jack stand and so forth besides the bearing puller which any auto part store has them. But what would we say the time frame is on this to do it?

 

Great write up and added info. It made the job way easier for a noob. Completed mine yesterday