Yes, it just started slipping and I had him park it before it caused any more damage. The car is quite drivable if you don't try to push it too hard.

Thanks for the reply.

 

^ you will be golden.........

I have since done tons of clutch installs.......pm me and if you need help we can chat..
-J

 

+1 on the DIY , I jus installed my ACT & JWT fly.. I read the thread a week ago jus to get a feel for it and prep myself for any hick-ups I might of encountered. I must say ur spot on .. And I cant lie mid install I referred to the thread for torque specs.. Thanks man for your DIY and thanks to this forum cause its really informative if u jus look around...

 

Got the clutch kit last night. They said it did not come with a throw-out bearing so I ordered the one they recommended. Well the kit did have a bearing and I also recieved the one i ordered. However they are of a different size. The one with the kit is smaller and has the "dog-ears" attached. The one I ordered appears to be the one that needs to be pressed on the carrier. Bythe way, I did get a new pressure plate, thrust bearing and pilot tool with the kit (no flywheel).

 

?? hard to say with out seeing pics? can you post any??

but I always installed the throw out bearing that came with the kit purchased......what clutch kit did you buy?? JWT, exeddy, etc???

-J

 

I fixed it already Jason. Thanks though. It was te pressure plate. The clutch disk I got I thought would work with mine instead of my friends buy was wronge so changed that out and everything is a go. Thanks any ways.

 

This is the kit I bought.

Daikin Clutch Kit Part Number: W0133-1795185Manufacturer Number: W0133-1795185 List Price: $477.43
Our Price: $285.95
You Save: $191.48 Quantity:
w/ cover, disc, & brg Fit Note: Production: -10/31/2006, The OE Service kit includes the pressure plate and clutch disc only. The release bearing is not included in this kit; order separately. The Exedy clutch kit includes the release bearing.
Fits the following 2006 Nissan 350Z submodels: 2006:All Submodels; All Engines;

What do you thnk?

 

okay, so its a oem replacement from like an online store like rockauto.com or something right? should be fine? but at this point with out pics no telling if which throw out will work?

At least you have them both and at install the correct one will present itself....

Do you have the pilot bushing? and slide hammer to remove the old one?


-J

 

Yes, there is a bushing. I am sure that the Randolph Craft Shop has a slide hammer. But, in my life, I have done many clutch replacments (30 years ago), and I have only seen one time that the pilot bushing needed replacement. Having said that, since they gave me one, I will probably replace it.

That one time was a 66 Mustang that just would not hold synchronizers. I got to the point that I could pull the Tranny, replace the syncrohnizers and have it back in the car in less than three hours. Of course there was nothing under the car but the tranny. Not like today.

Thanks for the advice

 

This is an update to step 18:
Using a "slide hammer puller" - google it:

^ due to the pilot bushings small size..i had to grind the tips of the slide hammer just a wee bit to get it to work.... just some FYI...

The attachement i used look like this and the little tips on the end at the bottom right of this pic i had to grind down to fit into the pilot bushing hole:

blended no more than .030 or so i would say...


-J

 

Well, all done! It took longer than I thought (due to a malfunctioning transmission jack), but the clutch job went well. The Flywheel looked fair. I think that it will have to be replaced at the next clutch job. Thanks for the advice and encouragement

 

^ awesome!!!

-J

 

Is this clutch changing DIY doable by a guy with enough hand tools and experience on all the car maintenance...in a ONE CAR garage? lol The space is pretty tight in my garage but i have a space to rest the tranny.

 

Might be inconvenient, but should be completely doable.

maybe if the lack of space is due to clutter, start early in the morning and move a bunch of stuff out of the garage to give yourself some more room. who knows, maybe you'll realize there's a bunch of stuff you don't need anymore and kill two birds with one stone.

 

This might be little bit of thread high jacking but..it has to do with clutch replacement lol
These are the pics of my garage. After removing the tranny, i guess i can just keep it under the car for more space in the garage lol

 

"Is this clutch changing DIY doable by a guy with enough hand tools and experience on all the car maintenance...in a ONE CAR garage? lol The space is pretty tight in my garage but i have a space to rest the tranny. "

After having done mine on a lift, I would not want to do it laying on my back under the car. Too many pieces, too little space!

 

not convenient but do-able...

remember to use larger jack stands up front, smaller ones in the rear...car should be sorta pointed upward (but not to much to spill tranny fluid out the back) and you can drop the tranny and leave it down there...

you will be surprised on the amount of room when the tranny is down and back.

remove the throw out bearing carrier, careful with the clip and clean the housing with brake clean,...change the pivot ball if you wish.

-J

 

Jason, I've got the 3rd gear grind and I'm trying to think through if I want to take on changing the transmission myself. Given you've done this a bunch, do you have a total parts list of what I should change out if I put in the new CD009 transmission into my 2003 Z. I track my car so I'd be interested in what you think I should do with the clutch, and other parts while I'm changing the transmission for the new one.

Thanks.

 

I just installed the AASCO flywheel and Exedy clutch combo that Fontana Nissan Race Shop sells. Is it normal to have to make a big adjustment to the clutch pedal rod with a aftermarket lightweight FW? My clutch now engages at about an inch and a half off the floor. I'm thinking that by going from the OEM dual mass FW that is thicker, to the new FW that is half the thickness is the reason why.Another thing that is odd is that this new clutch is suppose to have more clamping force than OEM but the amout of force it takes to push in the clutch pedal is quit a bit less.The first time I pushed in the pedal to start the car I was alarmed at how easy it was to depress I and I thought something was wrong but other than the pedal travel it all works fine.

 

hey i was just reading your post

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...voir-swap.html

My leg has been seriously damaged from this clutch kit and I am wondering what to do. I had it done at the nissan dealer since my used 03 had a bad tranny when i bought it from them. The clutch it stiff as **** and my gearhead friends agree with me (not always ie: your just being a *****[usually mustang ***s]). Anyway, if their not following the steps that you list.... Any suggestions? Finding your post was a great find for me because I am about to build a case against that shop. If your steps were not followed exactly, would the clutch be stiff as hell?

-Spencer