Mr.

iTrader: (3)

I'm going to replace everything on mine for the peace of mind that every "wear item" is brand new.

djwatts

iTrader: (4)

True, Id rather just be on the safe side as well, appreciate your help and info man. Hopefully nothing else occurs for a while lol

jcleary47

My Serpentine belt broke and came off last Thursday. Car has 26K miles on it.

Nissan Dealership called me Friday and said the belt tensioner broke, and that they didn't have the tensioner or the belt in stock and they should have the car ready today.

Apparently my warranty covers the tensioner, but it doesn't cover the belt because it was "consequential damage" so I have to pay some $68 for the belt replacement, but nothing for the tensioner replacement.

I guess I should be happy the tensioner is covered, but the belt broke because the tensioner was defective but maybe I'm just being picky.

I'm glad I didn't lose the belt and my power steering while driving through one of the three roundabouts I go through on my way home.

srsairbags

will the Stillen pullies and belt be of help ? ?

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...SAN&model=350Z

EdsZ

THANKS! That's a great instruction set. I used that for my G35. And all from the top, no need to get on the floor. Awesome.

My FX35 was similar but no auto-tensioner and you had to do it from the bottom. Its still only a 15 minute job. Don't get caught paying the dealer $170.

FenixL1P

speaking on behalf of my brother-in-law, his tensioner pulley assembly(not the pulley, the main mounting sleeve that is near the engine face) is cracked at the 11 o'clock position (viewed from front). We have to replace the whole assembly which sucks big time....

uhmaz1ng1

I just wanted to reply and say "Thank you". This thread was awesome and the pics were most helpful. It took me 25 minutes for serpentine belt and A/C compressor belt. Thanks again.

dcains

iTrader: (15)

I just changed the original belt on my '08 with 42K miles, and I was surprised at how good it still looked. No wear along the edges and no cracks at all on the ribbed side. I replaced it with a Gates belt.

FWIW, my breaker bar must be a little thicker than the OP's, and I wasn't able to fit it into the tensioner. But, I found that I could remove the two plastic fasteners which hold the top of the radiator in place, and that got me the extra clearance I needed.

Finally, if you've never worked with a serp belt before, the new ones are very stiff and can be difficult to work with. Get the belt seated on all the pulleys with raised edges first, and slip it over the idler pulley last.

Thanks to the OP for starting this thread, as I may not have replaced my belt otherwise.

turtleboy

Thanks everyone who appreciated the install guide. I have not had any problems since the install. My car runs great! :-)

BlazinNissan350

Great write up!

I tried to follow it but noticed my auto tensioner doesn't match up with the one in your image. I can't pull it back far enough to lock it! Is my tensioner bad? Is there a way to adjust it so i can pull it back far enough to lock it and swap in my belt?? Or do i need to buy a new tensioner. If so, how hard is that thing to replace???

rmadden5925

thats not on a Z maybe another nissan not a Z

Johnnys024

The Guide above is for DE motors '03 - '06 only.

This guide is for '07 - '08 motors only.

RMichael

clarification

bryk750z

great write up! spent more time arguing with my buddy that it is a 1/2'' breaker bar and not a 3/8'' breaker bar.

kingraj55

Thanks for the step by step.

06Luke350z

Great DIY. Just rolled my Z up on a few ramps and did it myself with no problems!! Big thanks saved me $80++ for a mechanic todo it.

sickZ31/Z33

I'm removing my belt on my 350Z Nismo because I'm installing a lightweight Stillen crank pulley I bought. In the picture in "Step 2", do I need to loosen that bolt first to be able to turn the tensioner counter clockwise?? I'm trying to turn it but it's not budging. I also don't want to give it TOO much pressure because I don't want to break something either. Any help?

sickZ31/Z33

Anyone know? I'm at work for the night but would like to know asap so I can take it off correctly tomorrow morning.

Edit: I figured it out. No you don't have to loosen that screw in case anyone ever wonders if they do as well. I just used a bigger 1/2" ratchet and a pipe at the end and was able to rotate the tensioner. I turned the black upper radiator securing points and unlocked and removed them, then I had just enough room to push the radiator back a little and fit the bigger ratchet.

Nismo909

just wanted to mention, I am at 103,000 and still the oem belt on my 2007 z minor cracks so I am replacing it today

Changiz Gaskin

THANK YOU TURTLEBOY ,
I put my 350Z in to Nissan for a check up and to replace belt at the same time. They failed to do the check up and decided to try and get me to OK the replacement of the belt, the actuator and power steering module! The quote back to me was £589.00p. The said the actuator was seized and the power steering module was worn out.

I did some investigating and found you DIY fitting instruction and a whole bunch of other useful stuff.

I bought the belt for £36.00p from Nissan (I think I was had on this price). Cut a long story short, I followed your instructions in their car park with a small complement of tools. I borrowed the torque wrench from one of their friendly mechanics, while charging the battery with their power (the least they could do).

Started the car and let it idle for a few mins and then just drove off took it easy so the belt could settle then did all the tightening off when I got home. Power steering work flawlessly the whole way home.

Thus you saved me a bill of £500.00p+ and all the faffing about with having no car.

Thank you again

Giz

Ps to fix a seized actuator - use the basic jack from another car (the one which has a screw bolt to open) , insert the nodules in between the underside of the jack top and above the jack base. Wind the actuator till it moves and nearly closes. Get some thick oil / wd40 and apply to the actuator. Repeat the process till the actuator springs away from the jack (look out for this, it move fast for first 5cm). When done put it back in, its ready. Took me 10 mins more.