drewk

iTrader: (6)

Ian, good job man. Just a quick question, Ive adjusted my clutch pedal up and down a million times. And I have officially forgot where it should actually reside as per manufacturers specs. If I were to do this mod. Will it matter where the pedal is adjusted to? Does it give the freedom of having the clutch pedal anywhere?
It is definitely difficult to have the clutch pedal so far off the ground, especially when you have a 6 puck stage 3 act clutch.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

i knew it had been a long time since i had driven a standard, and thought that i just absolutely sucked at it now... but after reading this its not me. my major annoyance with the car was how far out i had to let the clutch out compared to other cars... now i need to find a friend that knows how to weld so i can get this don

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

The clutch pedal can be adjusted as far down to the point where the pin connecting the master cylinder fork to the pedal is loose and float between the holes (this is the neutral zone i talk about in the original posts). The pedal may reside anything higher as the pedal is trying to pull away from the cylinder and not applying hydraulic pressure.

With the modification I have done it pushes the "neutral zone" further down, allowing me to adjust the pedal further downward while still retaining the OEM requirements.

If I remember correctly when i did the modification and was playing around with pedal height... I was able to CORRECTLY adjust the pedal till it was only 3" off the floor, which wouldn't allow the clutch to engage (disconnect power between engine and transmission). I brought it to about 3.5" off the floor and it has been perfect ever sense.


If I didn't have my welders locked up in storage right now thanks to the move i'd seriously consider making a jig and modifying pedals for people.

AngelsVQ

iTrader: (4)

make me one

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

id buy one too.


See where this is heading?

Dave 90TT

iTrader: (4)

word

laze1

iTrader: (17)

What is the process? and how hard is it to remove the clutch pedal assembly from the car? I am changing out my Clutch Master and Slave cylinders this weekend...may just pull this out to better understand how the POS Nissan clutch spring thing works.

Looks like it would be a PITA!

REMOVAL
1. Remove kicking plate. Refer to EI-32, "Removal and Installation (for Roadster Models)" .
2. Remove footrest. Refer to EI-38, "Removal and Installation" .
3. Remove dash side finisher (LH). Refer to IP-11, "Removal and Installation" .
4. Remove instrument driver panel lower. Refer to IP-11, "Removal and Installation" .
5. Remove VDC/TCS/ABS control unit. (VDC/TCS/ABS model) Refer to BRC-147, "Removal and Installation"
.
6. Remove the clutch interlock switch and ASCD clutch switch connector and harness.
7. Remove the snap pin and clevis pin.
8. Remove the pedal bracket mounting bolt and nuts and then remove the clutch pedal assembly.
INSPECTION AFTER REMOVAL

Check clutch pedal for bend, damage, or a cracked weld. If bend, damage, or a cracked weld is found,
replace the clutch pedal assembly.

laze1

iTrader: (17)

I have a full time race car (NASA PTB)...that is only driven at the race track in competition.....can I just remove the entire spring gizmo and run without it?

Maybe just use a traditional "helper spring" to pull the pedal up so the throw-out bearing doesn't get an pressure on it?

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

I did not have to remove any paneling to get my pedal out. I just pulled the clevis pin, disconnected the clutch engagment switch, and removed the 3-4 bolts/nuts (can't remember how many) that held the pedal to the firewall. This took me about 5 mins to do.

I would not suggest removing the spring assembly, the hydraulic system would not have enough force to resist the weight of the pedal hanging on the cylinder. In other words the weight of the pedal will hold a little pressure in the clutch hydraulics, same bad situation as over adjusting the unmodified pedal.

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

Well until i buy a house and have a garage again someone else can modify the pedals per my instructions .....

Hopefully getting a house in the next 4 months so i'll let everyone know. Else i can't imagine an honest welding shop would charge more then $30 to do this, it literally took me 15 mins cutting off the tab, relocating it, tack welding it, checking it, then fully welding it.

laze1

iTrader: (17)

Agreed, I was thinking you might could use some kind of "helper spring" to lift
the pedal off the Master Cyl...again the is a race car...so clutch and throw out bearing wear is pretty high already...

Gonna pull mine off tomorrow and see if I can do your mod...I have a local Muffler shop that does lite welding for me for cheap...

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

Make sure they line up the tab axially down the tube. If not you'll have to take down material on the aluminum spring hat.

I thought i marked it up pretty good but when i went to reassemble it was off and used my belt sander to take down the spring hat.

laze1

iTrader: (17)

good point...thnx

JustForFun

Ian,
Great DIY! I'm about your height, a little taller and have been looking for a clutch pedal fix for a long time. Appreciate all the info, cant wait to get mine done. I'll more than likely use the same 3.5" height, thats right where I'd like it.

laze1

iTrader: (17)

So I pulled the clutch pedal assemble out yesterday...it was very difficult as I am 6' 1", and I have a full 6 point roll cage with various plates welded in the driver's side floor to hard mount the seat and belts...and I only have one elbow on each arm.

Anyway, pulled the clutch pedal assembly out, replace the Clutch master and slave cylinders, and then removed the massive return spring completely...reinstalled everything and adjusted the clutch...and it feels completely "normal"...

The clutch pedal returns to the normal location due to hydraulic pressure and gravity...not sure that a custom return spring is required, but i will put one on today to assure that there is no pressure on the throw out bearing, and the master cylinder can return to the max-return position.

I didn't drive the car due to other parts begin removed for R & R...so I will report back next weekend when the car is ready for a test drive.

BTW: I am working on an "adjustable Slave Cylinder"...more to follow

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

Definitely let me know how the light return spring feels. The light spring may limit how fast the pedal returns, aka you let off the pedal and it doesn't move as fast as your foot.

If a lighter spring gets the job done being able to very quickly actuated the pedal then I'll be pulling mine out soon.

laze1

iTrader: (17)

I have not removed the "orifice" yet...from what I have read, that also has some control over the clutch release

laze1

iTrader: (17)

So, I removed the entire spring Assembly completely from my race care with a Carbonetics 2-plate clutch and PP...I ran a full race weekend and had ZERO ISSUES with the clutch.

The pedal 'feel" was like OEM, no slipping or noise...worked fine!

BTW: I also replace the Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders, and gravity bleed and pump bleed the system with ATE Blue racing brake fluid.

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

Good to hear, I think i'll have to go hunting for an appropriate sized spring that is much weaker then the OEM.

graymetalicsilv

Can you give more details on the process, such as how you cut off the arm, and what technique used for welding?

Thank You