View Poll Results: Have you modified the clutch pedal per my DIY?
Thinking about modifying the pedal.
33
76.74%
Thinks this is silly and likes the OEM pedal.
10
23.26%
Voters: 43. You may not vote on this poll
DIY: Repositioning Clutch Pedal
10-03-2011, 12:18 PM
#41
I marked where the tab was positioned axially, rotated the tab 15 degrees. Then welded it in place with my MIG welder. Tig welder would have made for prettier pictures though.
Last edited by ian99rt; 10-03-2011 at 12:19 PM.
10-11-2011, 05:36 PM
#42
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Thank you for your instructions. In the earlier days of my "Pedal War," I thought about re-angleing the arm, but had no idea what angle to use and I was afraid I might make it worse. Thank you for figuring out the angle.
I followed your instructions. I cut off and re-positioned the arm (please excuse the poor weld, it is still holding though). The arm length was shortened because the cut-off-wheel ground away some of the steel. The arm was no longer long enough to compress the big spring through the pedal movement, it only pushed far enough to compress the small spring housed in a cup on one end of the big spring. To fix, I placed 2 washers as spacers on one end of the big spring (the picture shows 1 washer installed, the second washer is lying flat on the big spring). The washers were size M20 from Ace hardware. The small spring in the cup was no longer being released at the end of pedal movement, so I removed it. With the washers installed (and the big spring compressed more during movement) the pedal feels lighter and more predictable. Now I will no longer suffer the indignity of being passed by Accords because it takes me a millennium to shift from 1 to 2.
Thanks again for sharing your fix.
10-11-2011, 05:55 PM
#43
Yeah i was very careful to minimize the kerf (material removed from cutting blade width). If you look at my "before" picture, my pedal had the tab only welded on one side (welded side not shown), I simply cut at the weld bead until the tab was loose. That left the full length of the tab untouched.
Sorry for my earlier reply i guess i should have gone into more detail, that would have avoided the spring issue.
Good job coming up with a solution though
Sorry for my earlier reply i guess i should have gone into more detail, that would have avoided the spring issue.
Good job coming up with a solution though
Last edited by ian99rt; 10-11-2011 at 06:04 PM.
10-11-2011, 06:04 PM
#44
I have to say that its been a long road getting the clutch / shifting system the way i want it but now its absolute heaven.
With the clutch pedal modification, TWM shifter, Forged weighted shift ****, and home-made 80A shore urethane transmission mount, my shifting is ultra precise.
My 1-2 shifts are practically instant as well.
With the clutch pedal modification, TWM shifter, Forged weighted shift ****, and home-made 80A shore urethane transmission mount, my shifting is ultra precise.
My 1-2 shifts are practically instant as well.
10-23-2011, 07:08 AM
#47
Any update on how its been working for you?
I'm curious how many people have actually gone thru with this modification and their reviews.
Please let me know
Thank you for your instructions. In the earlier days of my "Pedal War," I thought about re-angleing the arm, but had no idea what angle to use and I was afraid I might make it worse. Thank you for figuring out the angle.
I followed your instructions. I cut off and re-positioned the arm (please excuse the poor weld, it is still holding though). The arm length was shortened because the cut-off-wheel ground away some of the steel. The arm was no longer long enough to compress the big spring through the pedal movement, it only pushed far enough to compress the small spring housed in a cup on one end of the big spring. To fix, I placed 2 washers as spacers on one end of the big spring (the picture shows 1 washer installed, the second washer is lying flat on the big spring). The washers were size M20 from Ace hardware. The small spring in the cup was no longer being released at the end of pedal movement, so I removed it. With the washers installed (and the big spring compressed more during movement) the pedal feels lighter and more predictable. Now I will no longer suffer the indignity of being passed by Accords because it takes me a millennium to shift from 1 to 2.
Thanks again for sharing your fix.
I'm curious how many people have actually gone thru with this modification and their reviews.
Please let me know
Thank you for your instructions. In the earlier days of my "Pedal War," I thought about re-angleing the arm, but had no idea what angle to use and I was afraid I might make it worse. Thank you for figuring out the angle.
I followed your instructions. I cut off and re-positioned the arm (please excuse the poor weld, it is still holding though). The arm length was shortened because the cut-off-wheel ground away some of the steel. The arm was no longer long enough to compress the big spring through the pedal movement, it only pushed far enough to compress the small spring housed in a cup on one end of the big spring. To fix, I placed 2 washers as spacers on one end of the big spring (the picture shows 1 washer installed, the second washer is lying flat on the big spring). The washers were size M20 from Ace hardware. The small spring in the cup was no longer being released at the end of pedal movement, so I removed it. With the washers installed (and the big spring compressed more during movement) the pedal feels lighter and more predictable. Now I will no longer suffer the indignity of being passed by Accords because it takes me a millennium to shift from 1 to 2.
Thanks again for sharing your fix.
10-24-2011, 01:55 PM
#48
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Clutch is working well, my welding job is still holding. Now I'm trouble shooting another problem:
When releasing the clutch, whenever the pressure ring makes contact with the clutch disk (I think this is what it is), it makes an initial grab, then slips. Then as I release the clutch further, it properly and progressively grabs. It is highly annoying because during the initial grab, it induces a single "clunk" sound from the rear axle, and my car lurches slightly and my RPM dips. It makes for difficult to engage smoothly.
I can prevent this by releasing the clutch super slow, or by shifting at high RPM or high throttle. But I do not like driving that way.
The problem is not the clutch because the problem was there when I got the car new and continued even after I changed to aftermarket flywheel and clutch. I hear some BMWs have similar problems caused by bad flex disk (guibo). I posted on forums and some say its bad bushings of the differential mount.
Sorry to go off topic, but any ideas?
Thanks
When releasing the clutch, whenever the pressure ring makes contact with the clutch disk (I think this is what it is), it makes an initial grab, then slips. Then as I release the clutch further, it properly and progressively grabs. It is highly annoying because during the initial grab, it induces a single "clunk" sound from the rear axle, and my car lurches slightly and my RPM dips. It makes for difficult to engage smoothly.
I can prevent this by releasing the clutch super slow, or by shifting at high RPM or high throttle. But I do not like driving that way.
The problem is not the clutch because the problem was there when I got the car new and continued even after I changed to aftermarket flywheel and clutch. I hear some BMWs have similar problems caused by bad flex disk (guibo). I posted on forums and some say its bad bushings of the differential mount.
Sorry to go off topic, but any ideas?
Thanks
10-24-2011, 02:15 PM
#49
How many miles on the car?
Typical driving style?
I too would suggest check the differential bushings first. If all seems well there then i would suggest checking the u-joints and/or the differential itself.
Since this has happened since the car was absolutely brand new i'm kind of wondering if Nissan has a little bit too much play in the spider gears of the diff. I say the spider gears b/c if the ring and pinion were loose you'd probably have had the ring and pinion eat themselves by now.
Typical driving style?
I too would suggest check the differential bushings first. If all seems well there then i would suggest checking the u-joints and/or the differential itself.
Since this has happened since the car was absolutely brand new i'm kind of wondering if Nissan has a little bit too much play in the spider gears of the diff. I say the spider gears b/c if the ring and pinion were loose you'd probably have had the ring and pinion eat themselves by now.
Clutch is working well, my welding job is still holding. Now I'm trouble shooting another problem:
When releasing the clutch, whenever the pressure ring makes contact with the clutch disk (I think this is what it is), it makes an initial grab, then slips. Then as I release the clutch further, it properly and progressively grabs. It is highly annoying because during the initial grab, it induces a single "clunk" sound from the rear axle, and my car lurches slightly and my RPM dips. It makes for difficult to engage smoothly.
I can prevent this by releasing the clutch super slow, or by shifting at high RPM or high throttle. But I do not like driving that way.
The problem is not the clutch because the problem was there when I got the car new and continued even after I changed to aftermarket flywheel and clutch. I hear some BMWs have similar problems caused by bad flex disk (guibo). I posted on forums and some say its bad bushings of the differential mount.
Sorry to go off topic, but any ideas?
Thanks
When releasing the clutch, whenever the pressure ring makes contact with the clutch disk (I think this is what it is), it makes an initial grab, then slips. Then as I release the clutch further, it properly and progressively grabs. It is highly annoying because during the initial grab, it induces a single "clunk" sound from the rear axle, and my car lurches slightly and my RPM dips. It makes for difficult to engage smoothly.
I can prevent this by releasing the clutch super slow, or by shifting at high RPM or high throttle. But I do not like driving that way.
The problem is not the clutch because the problem was there when I got the car new and continued even after I changed to aftermarket flywheel and clutch. I hear some BMWs have similar problems caused by bad flex disk (guibo). I posted on forums and some say its bad bushings of the differential mount.
Sorry to go off topic, but any ideas?
Thanks
10-24-2011, 06:07 PM
#50
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almost 30k, usually driven conservatively but occasionally harsh.
This problem was barely noticeable when the car was first purchased, but after I driven it hard several times, it got worse. Now it seems to have plateaued.
This problem was barely noticeable when the car was first purchased, but after I driven it hard several times, it got worse. Now it seems to have plateaued.
11-06-2011, 09:54 PM
#52
Don't really understand this mod (because I skimmed and did not read too much).
I need to put a, clutch, flywheel, brake pads, oil, various fluids, and tire my Z
come spring so I will likely, read, and do it then.
Thanks for the write up, I have an '08 Z and my friend's '03 seems to travel A LOT less.
BTW I'm 6'7" I am very comfortable in the car (kinda) except for sleeping (HOT & sucks
***) Curious what the issues is? I will say the clutch travel is annoying but not for my
height.
I need to put a, clutch, flywheel, brake pads, oil, various fluids, and tire my Z
come spring so I will likely, read, and do it then.
Thanks for the write up, I have an '08 Z and my friend's '03 seems to travel A LOT less.
BTW I'm 6'7" I am very comfortable in the car (kinda) except for sleeping (HOT & sucks
***) Curious what the issues is? I will say the clutch travel is annoying but not for my
height.
Last edited by Earmuffs; 11-06-2011 at 09:56 PM.
11-13-2011, 02:00 PM
#56
Tell you what,
If you can live without your car for a week or two (involving shipping your pedal assembly to FL) I'll modify it for you. I'm lucky enough to have access to a TIG welder at work for one off projects.
You could also buy a second assembly off ebay, just make sure its close in years and was from same model trim. TYBOY seemed to have a bit different assembly on his 04' touring then my 07' base but modification was the same.
I'll do it this one time
for free just to help out, you'll have to pay return shipping of course.
Shoot me a PM if interested....
If you can live without your car for a week or two (involving shipping your pedal assembly to FL) I'll modify it for you. I'm lucky enough to have access to a TIG welder at work for one off projects.
You could also buy a second assembly off ebay, just make sure its close in years and was from same model trim. TYBOY seemed to have a bit different assembly on his 04' touring then my 07' base but modification was the same.
I'll do it this one time
for free just to help out, you'll have to pay return shipping of course.Shoot me a PM if interested....
02-22-2012, 09:43 AM
#59
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jUST READ THIS WRITE UP
Wanted to say the OP is awesome for writing this up #1
#2 just being a nice guy and offering to do it for another person. I had always thought it was just my z that had that long clutch . Im 6'5" and it sucks. OP should really consider Purchasing these in junkyards and selling them on here. Could start your own company real quick. Especially with all the g35 drivers out there also. Out of curiosity where in FL are you?
#2 just being a nice guy and offering to do it for another person. I had always thought it was just my z that had that long clutch . Im 6'5" and it sucks. OP should really consider Purchasing these in junkyards and selling them on here. Could start your own company real quick. Especially with all the g35 drivers out there also. Out of curiosity where in FL are you?
02-22-2012, 05:24 PM
#60
Wanted to say the OP is awesome for writing this up #1
#2 just being a nice guy and offering to do it for another person. I had always thought it was just my z that had that long clutch . Im 6'5" and it sucks. OP should really consider Purchasing these in junkyards and selling them on here. Could start your own company real quick. Especially with all the g35 drivers out there also. Out of curiosity where in FL are you?
#2 just being a nice guy and offering to do it for another person. I had always thought it was just my z that had that long clutch . Im 6'5" and it sucks. OP should really consider Purchasing these in junkyards and selling them on here. Could start your own company real quick. Especially with all the g35 drivers out there also. Out of curiosity where in FL are you?
Even though making fiberglass gauge pods for rx7s paid for the engagement ring....
I'm down in Naples, fl
