DIY homemade urethane transmission mount
So my $0.02 on the bushing has a few other factors. The bushing was installed at the same time I had a nismo flywheel, SPL compression bushings, rest of the front end bushings, diif bushings and subframe bushings replaced with Whitelines. Here's what I noticed, the car is nice and solid now compared to before. My shifter actually seems to vibrate less, not dancing at idle or at speed. The shifter doesn't wander when going thru the gears going straight or in a turn now. Finding the gears seems easier. The overall noise and vibration is not extreme at all, rather minimal, overruled by the way it feels. Yes the overall sound has changed drawing attention to the fact this is actually a fun sporty car, not some cush car or cheap attempt at a 2door. The flywheel has its own documented NVH, but the driveline just seems natural I just hear the motor a little more now. This was just out of my first 30 miles, I can only say I wish I would have done this all sooner and can't wait to get enough coin to finish the rear suspension now
So my $0.02 on the bushing has a few other factors. The bushing was installed at the same time I had a nismo flywheel, SPL compression bushings, rest of the front end bushings, diif bushings and subframe bushings replaced with Whitelines. Here's what I noticed, the car is nice and solid now compared to before. My shifter actually seems to vibrate less, not dancing at idle or at speed. The shifter doesn't wander when going thru the gears going straight or in a turn now. Finding the gears seems easier. The overall noise and vibration is not extreme at all, rather minimal, overruled by the way it feels. Yes the overall sound has changed drawing attention to the fact this is actually a fun sporty car, not some cush car or cheap attempt at a 2door. The flywheel has its own documented NVH, but the driveline just seems natural I just hear the motor a little more now. This was just out of my first 30 miles, I can only say I wish I would have done this all sooner and can't wait to get enough coin to finish the rear suspension now 
What durometer rubber did you use?
The kit started as an 80 durometer, I then added some Flexane which was a softening agent and brought that down to somewhere between 65-70. Im sure given time things my loosen or settle in some, but it was obvious after the mount dried how little the sleeve moved inside the mount now, even if it was just checking by hand.
Can I send you a stock one as well (if I can locate one)?
Just now checked this thread; didn't realize you mentioned me
.
I'm not complaining at all about the NVH that the mount added, but it took me a little bit to get used to. It feels a lot different than having poly mounts on FWD cars I've owned. It only shakes the car at certain RPMs, but it definitely tightens things up. Based on people's complaints about the billet/full poly mounts, I highly recommend this route.
.I'm not complaining at all about the NVH that the mount added, but it took me a little bit to get used to. It feels a lot different than having poly mounts on FWD cars I've owned. It only shakes the car at certain RPMs, but it definitely tightens things up. Based on people's complaints about the billet/full poly mounts, I highly recommend this route.
Just now checked this thread; didn't realize you mentioned me
.
I'm not complaining at all about the NVH that the mount added, but it took me a little bit to get used to. It feels a lot different than having poly mounts on FWD cars I've owned. It only shakes the car at certain RPMs, but it definitely tightens things up. Based on people's complaints about the billet/full poly mounts, I highly recommend this route.
.I'm not complaining at all about the NVH that the mount added, but it took me a little bit to get used to. It feels a lot different than having poly mounts on FWD cars I've owned. It only shakes the car at certain RPMs, but it definitely tightens things up. Based on people's complaints about the billet/full poly mounts, I highly recommend this route.
My wife on the other hand doesn't want to ride in my car at all
Ian, maybe you can help with this being an ME. I posted in the diff bushing thread, but haven't gotten any replies. I installed the Whiteline kit today and noticed that the ear bushings don't torque down, at all. They just keep compressing and compressing, doesn't look right. I've looked at Whiteline's install pics as well as another member's, and their bushings were not all smashed down, so clearly not tightened to all hell. It wouldn't even come close to factory torque specs (~75 lbs-ft). I even tried 55 lbs-ft and it just kept tightening and tightening. I ended up loosening them until they didn't look smashed, but were still tight with a normal wrench.
Last edited by bmyles; Dec 22, 2012 at 03:50 PM.
Looks like I just had to take a breather and re-attack. I loosened the rear bushing, loosened the ear bushings, then tried retorquing. I think I was hesitant my first time because I was afraid of snapping the bolt or stripping threads.
The front ear bolts actual thread into floating nut plates that are on the inside of the hollow subframe. Nut plates are very good at self alignment and avoiding cross threading.
I wasn't worried about cross threading so much as I was worried about over-tightening and potentially damaging the threads. I suppose with a bolt that large, you would have to apply some serious torque, but like I said in the other thread, I've had some bad car luck in my life, I tend to play it safer than sorry. Luckily, with the car 100% buttoned up, I still had full access to all the bushing bolts, so it was a very quick fix.
If there are 2 other guys that would be interested in splitting a 60a durometer bag of urethane with me and have IAN99RT modify our trans mounts, pm me. I really want to have my mount done but its a waste of material if only one mount is done



