The Official LS Swap Info/Questions Thread
02-25-2014, 10:26 AM
#1441
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Guys, lets get this cleared up. If u use a program such as hp tuners to control the gm motor you still keep everything but traction control and cruise control. And you have to get an aftermarket tach.
Its way cheaper, any good ls expert can tune it, and you get to run the cheaper cable driven setup.
I was going to fork out the extra 3.5k that it would have taken to do drive by wire, but i didnt feel confidence on the program and the availability of tuner, and harness for the more complicated setup, so i decided to just run 305 performance rears, and re-do the gauges.
For wiring the best feedback are for psi conversions and current performance. I was going to go with psi but since current is only 2 hours away, i feel more confident in case i want to tweak it later on.
Its way cheaper, any good ls expert can tune it, and you get to run the cheaper cable driven setup.
I was going to fork out the extra 3.5k that it would have taken to do drive by wire, but i didnt feel confidence on the program and the availability of tuner, and harness for the more complicated setup, so i decided to just run 305 performance rears, and re-do the gauges.
For wiring the best feedback are for psi conversions and current performance. I was going to go with psi but since current is only 2 hours away, i feel more confident in case i want to tweak it later on.
Last edited by ConradoR; 02-25-2014 at 11:44 AM.
02-25-2014, 10:29 AM
#1442
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Your running a turbo with the fueled kit? Are you using truck manifolds or custom? I am planning to turbo mine as well and fueled did not know if truck manifolds will have clearance.
02-25-2014, 12:46 PM
#1443
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Yes i am. Its a BW 80mm billet unit.
I am using the truck manifolds but i did a lot of work to mine because i wanted them up and forward. Im sure you know that both sides of those manifolds are different, and at the very end they curve up and out. They will fit depending on how you want to route them.
If they are down and forward then you will have to cut them before that turn and go with a v-band. This way you cant run AC because it points right in where the AC compressor would be.
The other way , and in my opinion the best on our chassis, considering you are going single not twins, is to get 2 passenger side manifolds. The one mounted on the passenger side will be mounted normally towards the back of the car (down and back) and it would still have to be cut and v-banded because it will hit the frame rail. Make a crossover around the tranny and merge with the one on the drivers side which will be pointed down and forward , again also cut and v-banded. Perfect placement for a turbo in the stock air filter box location.
As far as downpipe let your imagination run wild lol
I am using the truck manifolds but i did a lot of work to mine because i wanted them up and forward. Im sure you know that both sides of those manifolds are different, and at the very end they curve up and out. They will fit depending on how you want to route them.
If they are down and forward then you will have to cut them before that turn and go with a v-band. This way you cant run AC because it points right in where the AC compressor would be.
The other way , and in my opinion the best on our chassis, considering you are going single not twins, is to get 2 passenger side manifolds. The one mounted on the passenger side will be mounted normally towards the back of the car (down and back) and it would still have to be cut and v-banded because it will hit the frame rail. Make a crossover around the tranny and merge with the one on the drivers side which will be pointed down and forward , again also cut and v-banded. Perfect placement for a turbo in the stock air filter box location.
As far as downpipe let your imagination run wild lol
02-25-2014, 12:49 PM
#1444
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I have played every scenario possible in this engine bay with these manifolds. I worked on mine to have them up and forward because i wanted to do an outlaw front facing style setup , but i couldnt make it fit with the radiator i already had.
02-25-2014, 01:24 PM
#1445
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Nice, so you're running your manifolds both pointing forward and up? What have you had to change to make that work? Seems like it would create more clearance problems with the accessorie drive. I was planning to run mine both forward and down but haven't been able to test fit because I haven't bought a swap kit yet. I won't be using ac so I'm not concerned about that.
02-25-2014, 01:31 PM
#1446
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Alot of massaging and reshaping, but i was really happy with the outcome. Im running a gmpp accessory drive and they will clear with some adjustments, also touched the primary firewall. Like i said, alot of massaging lol i have a few bad phone pics but you get the idea. Im keeping AC btw.
02-28-2014, 03:19 AM
#1448
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^^ I'm starting my swap in June-ish so I'm still in the parts stockpiling phase. I picked up the tucked dual pass from Chase Bays. Checked it out a few weeks ago while I was home and it looked like a nicely built piece.
02-28-2014, 04:45 PM
#1451
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Car is not running yet so i cant tell you. Its the biggest core i found. Enthropy uses the same core on their radiators for 1000hp+ NA big block cars. Naturally Aspirated motors are usually very high in compression making tons of heat. My motor is a low compression turbo lsx on e85, we estimate it 1150 to 1200 rwhp. Enthropyrad.com , give them a call if you want something fairly large. Good guys and quality seems top notch.
02-28-2014, 06:10 PM
#1454
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You bet. If you plan on going front mount forced induction than make sure you account for the fans. push style will limit your intercooler size (assuming its air to air) and pullers will limit you on the inside where your hot parts will most likely run. Mine measures at a whopping 7inches at the deepest point with the fans. It was a very tight fit fitting all this stuff in there, im working on a tubular front end to accomodate everything.
03-03-2014, 11:16 PM
#1455
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Okay so finally I'm in the process of getting a LS3 C6 lump, low miles and a good price shipped to the UK. There's already a guy here in the UK who's almost complete his build and using a UK custom Engine Management System, but then he's using the car purely for drifting.
My question is for those of you who've done the swap, and wanted to continue using oem items such as Air Con, Gauges etc, what solution did you head down the Engine Management System route?
Syvecs and Motec is an option, but wanted to see what else was out there from the Stateside?
Cheers
My question is for those of you who've done the swap, and wanted to continue using oem items such as Air Con, Gauges etc, what solution did you head down the Engine Management System route?
Syvecs and Motec is an option, but wanted to see what else was out there from the Stateside?
Cheers
03-12-2014, 09:00 AM
#1458
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As anyone with a Sikky kits knows the LS is a massive producer of blow by causing high crank case pressure. I've had issue at the track with filling my catch can in only a few laps, partially due to having to modify my valve cover baffles to accommodate my massive rocker arms. So over the winter my friend and I built a air oil separator that hopefully will allow me to recapture some of the oil while still expelling blow by.
Internal baffle
installed on the firewall
This vents both heads to the canister as well as the PVC to the lower section and the upper hose goes to a separate catch can that vents to the atmosphere.
The lower hose on the right allow oil to drain back into the head when there is low load on the engine specially when there is a hard right hand corner. I wish it was slightly larger but this allowed for a direct fitment. I'll hopefully be track testing the last weekend in March at Gateway Motor Park in STL at the first race of the season.
Internal baffle
installed on the firewall
This vents both heads to the canister as well as the PVC to the lower section and the upper hose goes to a separate catch can that vents to the atmosphere.
The lower hose on the right allow oil to drain back into the head when there is low load on the engine specially when there is a hard right hand corner. I wish it was slightly larger but this allowed for a direct fitment. I'll hopefully be track testing the last weekend in March at Gateway Motor Park in STL at the first race of the season.
Last edited by QTB; 03-12-2014 at 10:35 AM.
