B-Unit

iTrader: (21)

allright cool.

B-Unit

iTrader: (21)

Yea, sometimes you do need to sand with 80 grit to get it uniform and all one height. your doing this by hand? sanding block? da? please tell..

-B-

Bubble

iTrader: (50)

both

B-Unit

iTrader: (21)

including the da and block? or hand and block?

Bubble

iTrader: (50)

i used machine (usually 320, then 600 to smooth it out) when the bondo too thick, or i'm in a hurry. I never like the idea of using 80/180 grid. They will make deep cut to the surface.

With this spoiler, only hand. I prefer slow but i'll get the best out of it.

B-Unit

iTrader: (21)

if your primering on 600 that is waaaay too smooth. Try primering on top of 180, then blocking it with 400, or machine at 320.

-B-

tekkensux

iTrader: (5)

My C20 kit had split lines after it was painted as well. I know my body shop didn't make every effort to perfect my kit but there definitely are minor flaws and pinholes / minor bubbles they said pretty much couldn't be avoided at least with their level of prep work. My shop ended up repainting both my front and rear bumpers because the paint kept cracking where the headlamps / tailights are. He said there was nothing he could do and he tried to reinforce the area using automotive putty but it didn't work.

The best part of my kit turned out to be the sideskirts I think. They look pretty good. The front looks good right now but he told me it will crack around the headlights very shortly. As for the rear, the same thing might happen around the tailights he said.

Again Shine Auto stuff fits great, customer service is super awesome, but the parts definitely need some heavy prep work to make it perfect.

JisNis

iTrader: (18)

Seems like Shine is on the offensive.

james840a

iTrader: (7)

WOW you used bondo
I used the firberglass jelly, much stronger and is as thick as bondo. Then used a layer of the liquid fiberglass to hit the low spots.

guys i posted here too.
https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-and-interior/188530-central-20-body-kit-fitment-and-install-4.html

For me i used 220 all around, as bubble say "I used machine" or what i say is orbital sander, and hand/block sanding. I also used primer filler for some of those pinholes at the head light areas and the areas that i filled in with fiberglass jelly.

davidf

iTrader: (18)

Sounds like Bubble does all of his own work, I'm impressed.

james840a

iTrader: (7)

Yeah it does, doesnt it. I like to do most of my work too, infact i was going to paint it myself, but i was to get the body shop guys to paint my front bumper the same time as they repair/paint the rear.

Bubble

iTrader: (50)

with all replica, extra prep work is a normal thing. However, i was expecting a higher standar (less prep work) since it's from Shine Auto Project. hehe

B-Unit

iTrader: (21)

Uhhh OOO, sounds like Shine Auto Project isnt our savior afterall... hopefully they can get the quality of the materials to a point where they can still produce the kits for cheap but without all the pinholes. They are pfrp again right??

-B-

ActionJackson

iTrader: (1)

man B-Unit put back the stormtrooper avatar lol I'm not used to seeing that one

Bubble

iTrader: (50)

spoiler by Fiberglass.

B-Unit

iTrader: (21)

sorry bubble i might have been a lil misleading here. i mean red schrotch brite or sand with 400, and then primer.

-B-

ShineAutoProject

iTrader: (25)

Bubble,

I was under the impression that you put the part under heat after you seal it to let it dry faster, hence pinholes start to arise. So does the PART show pinholes or does the SEALER show pinholes?

Also.....no one has yet to show us a picture of what these pinholes look like. Our parts are "pinhole" free leaving the shop. Anyone who has stopped by our facility will see that there are no pinholes on the parts. Also......if these are small pinholes that I am imaginining it to be.......primer should seal all that up. Primer should seal scratches AND pinholes.

B-unit is correct.......you do not need to wetsand to 600 to shoot primer or sealer......that's way too much work and unneccesary. You can sand the split lines by hand without a machine with either 100 or 150 grit. Sealer isnt even necessary. 1 or 2 coats of primer is all you need. Primer is like liquid bondo. Primer will get rid of 100 grit scratches as long as you spray it thick enough. We prep parts up all the time before we make a mold. If anyone wants to see how our prep parts look like in person.....they can come down and check it out. Near flawless.

If pinholes are the fault of the laminator, then there is no way any laminator can laminate parts 100% perfect consistently with the margin of error the size of a "pinhole." That's why there's primer. To cover up small/minor flaws.

Also.....split lines.......... sand with 100 grit with your sand paper held with your fingers. That should be adequate. Things start getting crazy when you use a machine.

Split lines are split lines. They've always been there from the start and you can't make a bumper without split lines or spoiler. It's up to the body shop to decide wether or not they are up to sanding it. But if you are paying for it......then they should sand it.

Prepping is easy if you do it right and have the right tools. In the same token, you can make it hard on yourself if you're going through the wrong steps or going overboard. We will have a tech page on our website on what is involved in prep and paint and the info will be from specialized body shops around the area.

Bubble

iTrader: (50)

Ken,

Put it this way. You can't see pinholes after you spray the primer. I don't heat up the spoiler to speed it up.

Anyway, Replica is replica. Extra work need to be done. No complain. As said, my expectation for kit from Shine Auto Project was too high. My bad.

Keep in mind, i'm not the only one have problem with pinholes. Again, I stand behind my review. Period.

ShineAutoProject

iTrader: (25)

I am acknowledging the problem of the pinhole. Im not denying it. I am simply proposing ways to get rid of it when it becomes a problem. We cant see the pinholes when we send out the parts...so there's nothing we can do about it on our side. And i also don't expect my lamination team to produce with a margin of error the size of a pinhole. They are human, so that expectation is absurd. If pinholes are a big problem that bother a customer that much.....then perhaps that customer shouldnt purchase from us......because we do no guarantee 100% pinhole free parts. And I don't think any company will gaurantee 100% free pinhole parts. If there is....I would like to know of one. No one will do it because there's no way anyone can provide 100% pinhole free parts on a consistent basis. Even vacuum bagged parts have pinholes. That's why we have a full refund policy......because some flaws bother some more than others.

ShineAutoProject

iTrader: (25)

also....this pinhole problem has nothing to do with the part being a replica. We can design our own parts and you can still have that problem occur. We do tons of prep work on original parts as well.

Because these are hand made parts....you will not get perfection on a consistent basis.........replica or not. We have pinhole free parts as well. So it would be unfair to compare our part to say ...a JP visage.....because that's only one part. Also......no one will complain about pinholes from their $3000 Japanese body kit from Japan because everyone is looking at the bigger picture. It doesn't cost hundreds of dollars to fix pinhole problem.