No problem. I am here to help. Let me know if there is anything else I can do (I happen to love this stuff just a bit too much ).

 

Thanks man, I messed with it a little more by adding a C-West logo, numbers, and taking away the top stripe...

 

I like the top stripe, it adds some color. It all depends on how much "racecar-ish" you want it to look though.

Here is a simpler version of the stripe (plus some other tweaks and options):



And here is a clean version to work off of:

 

Widened wheels do not loose their strength as long as they are widened by a professional. If you are unsure, you can always have them xrayed for weld integrity and penetration. If the idea overall doesn't appeal to you, get some custom BBS. They are the best racing wheels you can buy and they might even give you some sponsorship.

I like the photoshops. The car is looking very cool.

 

Well most track Z in japan and the Nissan Demo Z (Red) use 18x10.5 +22 with 285/30/18 all around for track use............

 

I just wanted to say YOU ARE A $%@# for not going to Button Willow Friday...

And your G is done...LOL

M

 

hawt.

 

Just an FYI - from everyone I've heard of that owns those Autotecknic mirrors, don't buy them they are cheap junk. The joints at the base and on the mirror come loose at higher speeds and they will constantly be pushed back by the force of the wind. My friend that had them had to take them off he car cause they were driving him crazy and he constantly had to readjust them.

There might be other brands that sell ones that work, but those Autotechnic ones are basically knockoffs and full of problems. I can imagine you wouldn't want them always folding back on you, especially if you're at the track.

 

you know... you can tighten the bases.. you just have to take the time to take em apart- not too hard.. Gringrott posted the instructions a while back.

even if it is a knock off, the ball joint is a universal piece. i have some pretty stiff suspension, and i'm sure if mine haven't moved yet, they're not gonna shake off on a road course which is most of the time, far smoother than public roads-

 

With 690rwtq, I need all the rear tire I can get. My car is not a fan of non-staggered setups. I have tried 275s all around. That red Z is pretty fast, I was at the event where that picture was taken. He has an awesome custom roll cage too!

 

John Redmond is an *** for getting married on a Buttonwillow track day . Picking up my G tomorrow AM!

 

I have alread tightened and adjusted the one and I can't even move it with my hand.

 

Those look sick my friend! Thanks again.

 

Good to know. I didn't know BBS had custom options! I will have to look into that. Thanks!

 

As for the rims.. SSR Sp1's come in similar sizes. I just bought 18x10.5 +30's for the rear, and 18x9 +31 for the fronts.

 

^^^Awesome! I will check those out. Thanks!

 

^^^

Technosquare ^_^

 

If you like them let me know. Thinking about selling mine. Regret not going 19's. They're still brand new in box.

 

Yep,

Going to have to check them out for a Cage for my G.

Taking the step from street monster to track monster.

Couldn't beat Terry's new Z06 (raced-out) yesterday or that Rolex GT3 race-car. Button-Willow was aesome, JUST TOO HOT...Bakersfield is cool.

Maybe need to try a little harder with Wight reduction, suspension, and a cage...MB, Steve's Mitchel's Red Z looked awesome at Streets, that is what I would do to my Lemans 350z if I didn't have a buyer in Greece.

M

 

I've got a couple ideas for the wing.

This lets you use hood pin style pins to hold the spoiler on. You just drill a hole through the bolt/stud at a point where the rubber bushing or spring will keep enough force on the spoiler to keep it from moving, but keeping it easy enough to squeeze to put the pin in and not break the pin. The rubber layer between the top piece of aluminum and the trunk lid is to keep the metal from scratching up your c/f trunk. The aluminum can be bought from like home dept or lowes and you shouldn't need an extremely thick piece either. 1/8" should work. You might need to enlist the help of someone with a drill press or a machine shop to drill through the bolt/stud.

OR....



This one's got fewer parts, but it's probably not as "quick" to disconnect since you would have nuts to take on and off. Although fewer parts means fewer pieces to lose.

And if your spoiler base isn't threaded, you would need to secure the bolts to the base using nuts, then use one of the contraptions above.

And to cover the holes off the track, you'd have to find a spoiler similar to the Nismo that has a big base to bolt to. Hope this helps you.