Yep, we always use dual stage. As you layer the clear, you totally change the tint of the paint. On a single stage, I guess if it's the same batch and properly mixed, and you can keep the same pressure as you spray, you can keep layering it on till you run out, but single stage gives you ALOT less margin for error.

 

I guess I was meaning "tri-stage". (I don't count the clear). Like DB and PPW. They require a base, mid and clear.

 

A local shop i contacted said that they would use Standox paint, which is made by Dupont. Is this good paint? should i request different paint? How about the installation cost of 1100-1200 dollars? Does that sound about right? Assuming that fitment is good of course...

 

DB isn't a tri-coat. It's just a base coat-clear coat. Also I've never seen a panel turn out darker on a two stage paint job. If that was the case then you couldn't feather out primer on a panel, you'd have to primer the whole panel. But then supposedly that panel would be darker than another panel that wasn't primered, so therefore you'd have to primer every panel on the car before you paint it. In short you just need to spray enough to cover up all spots. No need for extra paint as it will serve no purpose.

 

I beg to differ.

The 2 different colors below are what is required to paint DB. Then you clear on top of that. At least that's how Glasurit does it.



The below are taken at each stage up to clear.

 

Hmmm. When we painted my dad's car it was just base coat-clear coat. I guess it may depend on the type of paint being used. I've always used DBC, so it might be different for DBU or other types of paint.

 

sorry for off topic!!!
I heard ppl said in order to get closest color match, make sure to ask the body shop to use the PPG paint, other than the PPG paint is any other brand name paint is get close to the PPG paint? is PPG cheap or expensive paint?

 

I always use PPG, but I'm sure there are no facts to support that theory. Matching paint is all in the person doing the mixing. PPG is affordable. That's not to say they're cheap or expensive. Some of their paints are high and some are cheap. When we bought some daytona blue it cost around $90/quart. You can get their base coat black for less than half of that.

 

Do you know how much is gonna charge me if I ask the body shop use PPG to paint my Nismo front bumper and side skirts? I just need them paint it and I'm gonna install myself.

 

Depends on location. Most collision shops use PPG anyway. You'd get it done cheaper at a collision shop than at a custom shop as well.

 

boogiemyke - I see what you mean. Different manufacturers have different recipes for their respective versions of colors. What is 2 stages with one company can be 3 with another. Not to mention that within manufacturers, there can be different shades of a color. With DuPoint's Chroma Base, which is what my guy likes to use, there are 3 different shades of silverstone. A "0" stage, a +1 and a -1. Unfortunately, none matched my car particularly well, so in my last batch, I brought them the gas cap and had them go off them. That came out closer, but its still not perfect (to me). We played around with the pressure a bit and got the overal hue correct, but it's not quite as metallic as it should be (can I tell you how much I hate silverstone for this reason!!!) 90% of everyone else who sees it, sees nothing wrong. That being said I'm almost ready to give a different brand a try and maybe get a new gun at the same time. Got any recommendations?

There is no one paint brand that matches better than another, as the final color you end up with is affected as much by the "mix" as it is by the gun pressure, temperature, and humidity. Paint is a chemical - as you change the conditions that chemical is subject to, you change how that chemical reacts.

I would not try to micromanage the repair. Be upfront with the bodyshop on your expectations. Don't pester them, just let them do their work, and look at the results for yourself and take it from there