Bahnzii

iTrader: (1)

So I just did this install tonight and it was quite easy but there were a few things that were different that I wanted to pass on to others.

First, I have a 2007 base Z (love doing my own mods), so I bought the homelink from mynismo. The install sheet it comes with seems to be based on the first model year. Reason being the fuse block, wires and stock mirror are all different from how they state

I didn't grab any pics, but if people really want them, let me know and I will get some and host them somewhere.

Tools I used:
interior removal tool (it looks like a 2 pronged bent fork)
electricians tape
10mm socket
T-20 torx
Needlenose pliers
Flat head screwdriver

Time spent - give yourself an hour or so

Since we are going to splice into some wires, go disconnect the negative terminal on your battery - - better safe than sorry.

1. Remove the stock mirror.
The notes say to slide a screwdriver from the bottom, yada, yada...
For the '07's there is a locking tab at the bottom that you pull down gently with a pair of needlenose pliers. Once it has enough clearance push the mirror up (towards the headliner) to remove it.

2. Remove driver side kick plate. Start with the end towards the front of the vehicle and pull it towards you to release 2 clips - these seem sturdy so give it a little tug. Then just work slowly from front to back and pull up to release the pressure clips (that's what I call them). You can use the interior tool here but I didn't have to...

3. Remove your dead pedal. Just use the flat head screwdriver and unscrew the 2 plastic screwheads.

4. Remove the cowl cover (that's what they call it in the install sheet). This is the black plastic cowling that is next to the dead pedal. First remove the plastic nut that was underneath the dead pedal. It simply threads by hand. Then there are 2 clips at about the same place as the front of the kick plate. This is a good time to use the interior tool. Just pull it out a little bit with our fingers and slide the tool in there to give you leverage to pop them out.

5. Pull the rubber molding away from the A-pillar area. I just started by the cowl cover and pulled it out and away up to the top of the A pillar. It fits in a groove, so it goes back in very easy.

6. One more piece to remove, the A pillar covering. You will see 3 (or 4) tabs in the plastic facing you where you pulled the rubber molding away. Just use your fingers to pull down at the tab closest to the headliner and then insert your interior tool in there and pop the first clip. The second clip is right around the 3rd tab (counting from top to bottom). That's it, now just pull towards you to remove the A pillar cover.

7. Now mount the new mirror. Slide it on from the top and push it down until it stops. Then use your Torx to tighten the screw until it is snug in place.

Note: the sheet says to connect the wiring now. I decided I would rather have slack wire down by the fuse block where I could zip tie than just tucked up in the headliner where it might rattle and cause me to go nutz

8. Get the wiring that came with the mirror and the plastic covering that goes from the mirror to the headliner. Push the connector into the back of the mirror (it can only go in one way) and then run it up the middle of the covering. Leave a little slack in the wiring so the mirror can move in all directions without pulling on the wire. Now push the covering on to the base of the mirror (it just clips in) and then push a little wiring up into the headliner before you extend the covering to reach the headliner. The 2 prongs on the covering slip underneath the headliner.

9. Now just tuck the wiring up into the headliner and run it towards the drivers side A pillar.

10. You will notice some wiring already running along the A pillar, so I simply wrapped the mirror wiring around the existing wiring in a couple of places and then used electricians tape to secure it and keep it from rattling.

11. Now feed the end of the wiring down through the A pillar opening towards the fuse block/dead pedal. It just drops down for the most part. Since I hate rattles, I wrapped some more tape around the wiring and then wrapped it around a little plastic tab near the 'Z' vent

12. Now its time to wire this puppy up... The fuse block we want is the one up from the dead pedal. That black one right next to the dead pedal is the Body Control Module. That is NOT it. Up from that are 2 white horizontal fuse blocks. We want the fuse block close to you (the driver). There are 2 horizontal rows of pins.

13. The wiring that came with the mirror has a black wire with white stripe, a ground wire and a solid black wire. Using one of the T-splices that came with the mirror, you are going to locate the Green wire with the Yellow stripe on the top row, this is pin 5A it is the ignition wire. It should be the 3rd pin in from you. I had to peel back some electrical tape from the wiring since it was little too buried for me to get the T-splice in there. Connect the Black wire with the White stripe.

14. Now you are going connect the other T-splice to the pin 8A, Red wire with White stripe, this is the Battery Wire. It is on the bottom row and is the very last pin away from you (closest to the firewall). Connect the Black wire.

15. Just up from the fuse block you will see 2 bolts. They secure the fuse blocks and also provide a ground source for us. Use the 10mm socket and unscrew the top most bolt, slip the ground wire ring over it and re-secure the bolt.

Now its time to check the mirror.

16. Reconnect the negative terminal on the battery.

17. Put your key in the ignition and turn it to on (don't start it). Pushing the Compass button should turn the directional display on or off (mine was on by default but I am not sure how they ship from the factory (Gentex is the manu.)). Push the mirror button should turn on or off the auto-dimming feature. When it is on you should see a green light next to the button. Hold a small flashlight up to the photocell on the front of the mirror and you should be able to see the glass darken.

good job...

18. Use the supplied zip ties and secure the remaining slack wiring down near the fuse block. Be sure to not get in the way of your Hood release cable.

19. Put all the interior pieces back in place and push the rubber molding back in to place and you are done!!

Final comments:

I also have a Valentine unit, so I ordered a power cord from Invisicord. The pin with the yellow tape goes to the Ignition source, which was the Black wire with white strip. The pin with the black tape goes to ground which is the Middle black wire. Just push them in gently next to the 2 wires, piece of cake.

I also ordered the Valentine mount from CountryJoyCrafts http://www.countryjoycrafts.com/Conn...arDetector.htm
Unfortunately, it seems the mirror I received had a smaller post than what comes from the factory for 06-07 models. The post diameter on my mirror measured .755 with my calipers, so I have to re-order the 2003-2005 Valentine mount.

Save yourself the additional shipping cost and measure your mirror post before ordering.

By the way, the Valentine mount they sell looks very clean, I can't wait to get it connected.

Driving without a Valentine is like driving without a license

I will do my best to get pics for this. In the meantime, if anyone has any questions feel free to post them or pm me.