Rowlett

iTrader: (14)

I have a V1 Carbon Fiber Replica Nismo spoiler that iv been trying to get painted, The whole thing is Carbon fiber, Even the base....Im thinking i want only the base painted...

So i took it around three shops and they all gave me a rough time...

The first guy said that the paint may "Fish Eye" --100$

Second guy said "We can Paint, 150$ And we Take your gas Cap to match color"

Third Said 200$ And well paint it...44$ @ 2 hours...66$ prep time for paint...50$ paint? (may not add up, but you get the point)

Ummm. 200$ that an arm and a leg for me... I should just wait to get a Kit and Paint it all at once..IMO

Another thing, The base is a lil warped... When i go to mount it im going to have to press two oppisite corners down to get it even. when i go to do that, wont the paint be in jepordy to crack, chip, even break?

So i guess my Question is, What steps should i take, or percautions to beaware of when i go to take it to paint? In regaurds to Carbon Fiber!





Got new Pics...

03Zilverstone

iTrader: (4)

Out of those three guys I'd consider only the second one. And that's only a consideration. The first guy doesn't know what he's talking about. With proper prep it will spray as good as anything else. The third guy is wierd on his quote. He's charging $66 to prep the base? I would take me less than an hour to prep that piece. And two hours for paint? For small pieces like that, maybe an hour.

As for the base you'll be fine if you can easily flex it to make it match up. Paint naturally has some flex to it. If you bend that CF enough to crack the paint, the paint won't be all that's cracked.

Hope this helps and let us know what you come up with.

hershell

iTrader: (5)

It will most likely fish eye. Not the paint, but the clear will. I'm not sure I would call it fish eye, but the carbon will soak up the clear and leave pin holes. It has happened to many people you can search it. It happened to my hood and hatch and I promise it was prepped right. You will need to keep applying clear until you have enough to wet sand and buff. If you are going to paint the whole wing I would get fiberglass


https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-and-interior/333482-issues-with-re-clear-coating-carbon-hood.html

Rowlett

iTrader: (14)

mmm... Yeah this helps me out a lil...
So primer, paint, clear, and tons more clear, still possible Fish eye?
I dont think that id want the entire spoiler on my car, Carbon fiber, I was really hoping to paint the bottom half...

Rowlett

iTrader: (14)

maybe i shoud just trade some one localy...

JokerDev

iTrader: (43)

funny enough, when I bought my wing, it was painted and I sanded it down to make it all CF again. Since mine was painted, I know it can be done, you just need to find a body shop that has done it before.

03Zilverstone

iTrader: (4)

I know what a fish eye is. If done right it will turn out as good as anything else. And you don't keep spraying clear. Anymore than three heavy coats and the clear will start become brittle. Not to mention fisheyes are caused by oily/contaminates left on the piece before painting, or by spraying the clear too thick or too fast.

Rowlett

iTrader: (14)

Point taken, Im going to avoid trading some one there base for mine, i wanted to leave the middle rear section unpainted, so that you could still see the carbon fiber weave!

Dose any one recomend me to sand and primer before i let the shop paint over it, this way i know prep work was done corectly?

kspec

only if you know how to correctly do it.

try to find a shop that specializes in custom work or deals with carbon fiber on a more normal occassion. In dallas, that shouldnt be too hard.

03Zilverstone

iTrader: (4)

Don't do anything to it. A good shop should be able to do everything right. If they don't I wouldn't want them painting it anyway. If it does happen to fisheye then they would have to repaint it on their dime. I garantee if it did the first time it wouldn't the second. If they are worried about fisheyes the safest way to get by would be to sand down the spoiler and spray two medium-wet coats of clear. Give it a day and resand to paint it. I wouldn't even primer it for the first clear, just use a good adhesion promoter. That's how guys do when they have partially painted carbon hoods, etc. The first coat would just be precautionary in case anyone would be worried about fisheyes.

03Zilverstone

iTrader: (4)

Like I said in the other post I wouldn't even primer it. But just in case anyone searches in reference to something else don't ever do prep work on a vehicle part without first checking with the shop that will do the painting. Some shops won't even touch something if it's been prepped by the potential customer.

leemik

iTrader: (2)

I'd try the second guy... but I wouldn't give him my gas cap... ever notice how on like 90% of Z's the gas cap never exactly matches (especially silver Z's)?

Rowlett

iTrader: (14)

Point taken, wont do any prep...


mmm.. never noticed, But this guy is in my backyard, his price was more reasonable...


I'v got another place ill check out tomarrow..."Hack Shop" thats the name, they do a lot of custom work, there like the West Coast customs of Dallas..lol


.

hershell

iTrader: (5)

I never said you didn't know what a fish eye was. And I know what causes a fish eye. I also know how to prep a part before painting. When we painted my parts they were prep very well. My point is that the “fish eyes” in the clear are not what I would consider a typical fish eye. It looks like a fish eye but under magnification it is a pin hole. It’s more of a pin hole where the carbon has soaked up the clear. I’m not trying to challenge you 19 years of experiences. BTW how many carbon parts have you cleared? I have had some carbon fiber come out perfect. The carbon on my Aprilia was fine when we cleared it. I’m telling you, you can prep all day and try to seal it, but there is a good chance you are going to have imperfection in the clear, call them what ever you want. Fish eyes, pin holes what ever. Btw I know how to clear. I never said you keep spraying clear. Again my point was to make sure they apply enough to sand and buff. I never said apply 5-10 coats of heavy clear.

To the OP do as you wish, I’m trying to tell you may encounter some imperfections. My pain and body guy has been in the business for over 30 years. He has paint several car and parts for me. He is also a friend that I trust. This is not his first rodeo.

kspec

yea my gas cap doesnt match my car
(blue here)

03Zilverstone

iTrader: (4)

I'm not going to be a poser and lie. I haven't personally painted cf. I am however trained in and do body/paint work and am aware of how things work. Carbon fiber is covered in a two part epoxy. This will be cured long before you put the part on your car. The carbon fiber can't soak up the clear through the epoxy. If it were going to soak it up it would also soak up the base put on before hand. I guess the clear's going to soak through the base without affecting it? Since the epoxy is already cured there is nothing for the clear to react to, aside from any contaminants left on the piece. Also pin holes are caused from solvent pop. This is were the flash time before the second or third coat of clear is too long. Essentially the previous coats are starting to cure and when you spray the next coat the solvents are trapped creating a bubble and building pressure until they pop.

On a side note what kind of Aprilia are you riding? Hopefully a fellow twin rider?

Edit: Also just out of curiosity what clear were you guys using? Might look into a fast curing clear like PPG DC3000. It might be able to set up a bit faster before causing problems. Wouldn't recommend it for any big jobs though as you'd have certain solvent pop issues.

hershell

iTrader: (5)

We cleared several parts at the same time only the carbon had the pin holes/ fish eyes. Not sure what clear he was using. I did a fade on the hood and hatch. The painted and non painted areas had the same problems. None of the other parts had any spots, just the CF. The carbon is also cleared from the factory. My mastergrade roof and a-pillers will be here this week so we will be clearing them this week. I will see if we have the same problem.

I had a 2000.5 RSV Mille that was almost all CF. I just sold my 2007 SXV 550.
I won't buy another I4 sport bike, V-twin from now own.

03Zilverstone

iTrader: (4)

'00 TL1000R here. I'd love a Mille. I'm looking at all the new twins for my next bike. Same sentiments about the I4. I hate the gas milage difference though.

03Zilverstone

iTrader: (4)

I forgot to mention this, but if it's already cleared it might be done with a different system than you're using. I've never had any problems with clears, but I have accidently ran into the old base before while sanding and the new base would lift on the last few coats. Like I said I've never seen that happen with clear, but it might be something to look at.

Rowlett

iTrader: (14)

Anyways... I took it to the Hack Shop... FAIL..lol So i went back to the first guy... He'll take care of it... Update Thursday or Friday!

Now i need rears...