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So i wrapped my strut bar in Carbon fiber....preliminary results

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Old 03-31-2008, 04:22 PM
  #21  
creationv2
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wow good job!

but damn whyre all the cf wrappers on the east coast....anyone in socal! pleeeeease!?
Old 03-31-2008, 04:28 PM
  #22  
annahandres
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I vote no Z emblem.. what color is your car? (sorry if I already missed this part)

just kidding just looked on your profile.

but do whatever you like!
Old 03-31-2008, 04:30 PM
  #23  
Cux350z
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ill try to get a DIY together but it may not be very helpful. Time plays alot into how quickly you have to work. The time it takes your resin to gel varys btw resins as well.

Basic steps for an overlay:

-Sand part with 80-120 grit paper
-Spray paint part black and let dry
-Roll out your cf and figure out how large a piece you need. Use masking tape to mark where you are going to cut. The tape help stops the CF from fraying. Its easier to cut a bit extra then to be short. If you have a complex piece with alot of edges you may want to test fit and cut a more precise piece out.
-Mix up your resin. I use a epoxy resin. I let it sit for about 20mins after mixing to let it get a bit thicker and to eliminate any bubbles that formed while mixing
-Coat the piece with the resin
-Let resin get to a gel state ( about 45 min after mixing for me)
-Lay on the carbon fiber. Try to keep a nice weave pattern. Relieve any stress around curves if needed.
-Let the piece dry ( for me thats 6 hrs at 70C, you can use a heat gun to speed it up
-Start with a few light coats of resin, letting them gel btw successive coats or even cure hard to the touch. After the first coat you should cut out holes and trim the CF so that you dont have to cut through thick resin later on
-I like the pour method, it adds thickness to the surface quickly and takes less time. the only negative is wasted resin.
-build the resin up, the more resin the deeper the shine and the more insurance you have when you start sanding
-once you are satisfied with the resin thickness, let the part cure for 36 hrs or more.
-sand with 150 to get large bumps down and to make a flat surface. Alternate directions between grits. I worked my way up to 400 and then wet sanded it with 400
-clean the resin with acetone, let dry
-clear coat the piece, several layers for a high build gloss
-400 wet sand.........all the way to 1500 or 2000 wet and then buff to a shine!

I watched several hours of video on youtube/google video and the people that sold me the resin had several vids in their auction.
Old 03-31-2008, 04:35 PM
  #24  
JAM3Z
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wow, nice write up Chris.
Old 03-31-2008, 04:39 PM
  #25  
Cux350z
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heres some better info:

materials-

http://www.uscomposites.com/shortroll.html
http://www.cstsales.com/products.html
http://www.theengineerguy.com/
http://www.fibreglast.com/

a book -

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1859606245

just simple tutorials that are rather helpful

http://www.instructables.com/id/S8GIRQEF2FRV87R/
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...els/index.html

videos:
http://video.google.com/url?docid=88...rN7sMbMwCKk4iw
http://s75.photobucket.com/albums/i2...GTECHNIQUE.flv
http://s75.photobucket.com/albums/i2...GTECHNIQUE.flv
http://s75.photobucket.com/albums/i2...RPOLISHING.flv
http://s75.photobucket.com/albums/i2...GTECHNIQUE.flv

a forum:
http://www.compositeforum.werksberg.com/

Last edited by Cux350z; 03-31-2008 at 04:42 PM.
Old 03-31-2008, 04:59 PM
  #26  
AreYouAMac
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thanks man for the helpful info.
Old 03-31-2008, 08:14 PM
  #27  
Cux350z
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as soon as i posted the how to people stopped replying

150 views and 25 post => 250 views and now 26 posts
Old 03-31-2008, 08:18 PM
  #28  
creationv2
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lol. trust me this will be a sticky in the near future. i know of a lot of ppl who want to try and do this such as myself. also its like the first on the forum to have how to/diy which it should be posted in.

most people dont ever put up a detailed how to cuz of who knows why (i think they just want to make money) but theyll give you a list of reasons.


so thanks for the write up as well as the links. ive been reading so many useless things through google. and you happeend to post up the ones i thought were useful from my findings.

one day when i have the time and money ill try this out.
Old 03-31-2008, 08:21 PM
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JAM3Z
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As far as I'm concerned Chris is the king of DIY.
Old 03-31-2008, 08:23 PM
  #30  
TreeFiddyZee
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Originally Posted by Cux350z
as soon as i posted the how to people stopped replying

150 views and 25 post => 250 views and now 26 posts
I'm putting carbon fiber on my dog and haven't had time to reply. He keeps running away when I try to sand him. Ungrateful mongrel.
Old 03-31-2008, 08:24 PM
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creationv2
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OP, you should make a thread in the DIY section for easier viewing/searching for this.
Old 03-31-2008, 08:32 PM
  #32  
JAM3Z
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Originally Posted by TreeFiddyZee
I'm putting carbon fiber on my dog and haven't had time to reply. He keeps running away when I try to sand him. Ungrateful mongrel.
Are you doing a 1x1 or a 2x2 weave?
Old 03-31-2008, 09:07 PM
  #33  
noodleman
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if you really wanted a Red Z, may i suggest replacing the stock Z painted red with the Tommy Kaira Z?
Old 04-06-2008, 07:22 PM
  #34  
Nukiz0r
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Originally Posted by Bolaz
That looks bad ***, good job! now make me one!!!
+ mf'in 1

Make me one, and make the Z Burnt Copper instead of red. PM price when you get a chance. =)
Old 04-06-2008, 07:27 PM
  #35  
Escobar
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great thread bro. I have mine done as well and love it!
Old 04-06-2008, 08:30 PM
  #36  
usmanasif
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Wow. Awesome amount of info. Thanks man!
Old 04-07-2008, 06:31 AM
  #37  
Iconoclast1
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in between the coats of resin, if you came up with any tiny air bubbles after it had completely cured did you sand them down before applying the next coat?
Old 04-13-2008, 05:00 AM
  #38  
Cux350z
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Originally Posted by Escobar
great thread bro. I have mine done as well and love it!
awesome! let see some pics. Did you leave the 6 squares in?

as far as a price........if i ever start doing these on the boards id probably charge about 150. Seems high, but these are very labor intensive.

as for bubbles, thats one thing you learn to eliminate. I stopped using foam brushes to distribute the resin. While i let the resin sit in the cup for the 20-25min, i periodically hit it with a heat gun to pop bubbles. Once i lay the resin on the part, i go back over it to pop as many bubbles as i can. You should be able to eliminate all the large bubbles that way. If when your done and sanding the surface smooth and encounter a bubble, whichll become a pit onces you sand the top off, use a tooth brush once your on the final 400 wet sanding. The toothbrush will clean the dust out and you wont be able to see the pit anymore. Clear it,wet sand ,buff and be done.

I use my popsicle sticks to spread the resin. My method allows for a thicker resin which doesnt flow the best, but once you get the resin where you want it, it levels out and covers what you need. Ive gotten the best results that way.
Old 04-13-2008, 07:20 AM
  #39  
Iv0rYg35
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+1000 on the DIY. Since I'm one of probably a thousand or more visual types; It would be killer if someone could take the next step in a DIY & create a video of the whole process (of course in fast forward) & have it hosted on youtube. I would think people should throw a few bucks as a donation (I would) for the work that would be involved in creating it.
Old 04-13-2008, 07:44 AM
  #40  
sosojeffcc
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stupid question, but with that piece on, is there a problem with it's reflection in the rear glass bothering you?


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