350Z on a Diet? How to lose over 330lbs!
Mine is a Performance model. Here are a few ways to lighten the Z.
Wheels/tires - 40 lbs 40
Spare tire and accessories - 40lbs 80
Trunk mat and floor mats - 10lbs 90
Cats -- 30lbs 120
exhaust to Borla -- 20lbs 140
Nismo Flywheel -- 8lbs 148
Sparco Fighter seats 40lbs 188
pullies 4 lbs 192
battery 15lbs 207
1/4 gas as opposed to full 90lbs 297
and last but not least, ME! 40lbs 337
the above are just guestimates, anyone else with any additional ideas?? These mods above would account for a .35 fluctuation in 1/4 mile times, not to mention the added horse power.
I scaled my Z the other day and it came in at 3126 if I remember right, I think i may have had 1/4 tank of gas, but I don't recall for sure. I don't have the battery or the seats yet though, maybe I'll see 3070 if I'm lucky, without me in it of course.
Wheels/tires - 40 lbs 40
Spare tire and accessories - 40lbs 80
Trunk mat and floor mats - 10lbs 90
Cats -- 30lbs 120
exhaust to Borla -- 20lbs 140
Nismo Flywheel -- 8lbs 148
Sparco Fighter seats 40lbs 188
pullies 4 lbs 192
battery 15lbs 207
1/4 gas as opposed to full 90lbs 297
and last but not least, ME! 40lbs 337
the above are just guestimates, anyone else with any additional ideas?? These mods above would account for a .35 fluctuation in 1/4 mile times, not to mention the added horse power.
I scaled my Z the other day and it came in at 3126 if I remember right, I think i may have had 1/4 tank of gas, but I don't recall for sure. I don't have the battery or the seats yet though, maybe I'll see 3070 if I'm lucky, without me in it of course.
Your car is fairly light already. Are you building to class rules, or just whatever?
I don't know how serious you are but you could also do some of these:
a/c system
bumpers
sound deadening, insulation
radio system
partial interior removal
I don't know how serious you are but you could also do some of these:
a/c system
bumpers
sound deadening, insulation
radio system
partial interior removal
I think a lot of your estimated weight reductions are a bit ambitious. IIRC, the stock seat doesn't weight that much to begin with. Oh, and for the record, I weighed in at 3134 last year with a 1/4 tank of gas, floor mats removed (which only weight about 2 lbs each), and my spare tire removed. Everything else was stock at the time.
Originally posted by John
I think a lot of your estimated weight reductions are a bit ambitious. IIRC, the stock seat doesn't weight that much to begin with. Oh, and for the record, I weighed in at 3134 last year with a 1/4 tank of gas, floor mats removed (which only weight about 2 lbs each), and my spare tire removed. Everything else was stock at the time.
I think a lot of your estimated weight reductions are a bit ambitious. IIRC, the stock seat doesn't weight that much to begin with. Oh, and for the record, I weighed in at 3134 last year with a 1/4 tank of gas, floor mats removed (which only weight about 2 lbs each), and my spare tire removed. Everything else was stock at the time.
The battery is definitely 20+lbs lighter than stock, I just weighed both. Why would sparco Fighter seats not be 20lbs lighter than the stock seats? Don't the stock seats weigh 35lbs or so each?
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A few added ideas:
- CF hood
- CF bumpers (the stock bumpers are heavy gauge Al)
- eliminate all aero components if acceleration is the goal and not top end speed
- Ti or more exotic material, single pipe exhaust
- smaller(diameter and width) wheels (this has a two fold benefit by also reducing rotational inertia) - there go the 19's ;-)
- elimimate the resonator - a bit more noise
- eliminate the polished SS exhaust tips - ouch on the rearend look
- passenger seat and rails - leave momma home
- engine compartment covers
- CF rear hatch
All that reduced inertia directly benefiting 0-60 and 1/4's with no added stress to the engine and drivetrain.
- CF hood
- CF bumpers (the stock bumpers are heavy gauge Al)
- eliminate all aero components if acceleration is the goal and not top end speed
- Ti or more exotic material, single pipe exhaust
- smaller(diameter and width) wheels (this has a two fold benefit by also reducing rotational inertia) - there go the 19's ;-)
- elimimate the resonator - a bit more noise
- eliminate the polished SS exhaust tips - ouch on the rearend look
- passenger seat and rails - leave momma home
- engine compartment covers
- CF rear hatch
All that reduced inertia directly benefiting 0-60 and 1/4's with no added stress to the engine and drivetrain.
Here are some stats for you.
we have a aluminum hood. light as is but CF never hurt.
our 18" rims on the tracks are 17lbs a peice
Courtesy Parts.com sells titanium exhuast systems that weigh like a total of 40 lbs
the rest sounds good to me. Its probably the Lightweight version that is rumored to be in the works.
and does 3/4 a tank really weigh 90 lbs?
I am going up against a 2300-2500 pound civic soon and am looking for ways to cut weight at no cost.
the bet is stock vs. turboed civic,
I am removing spare and all mats, and jack, and showing up with an little over an 8th of gas maybe a quarter tank.
I hope thats enough!
we have a aluminum hood. light as is but CF never hurt.
our 18" rims on the tracks are 17lbs a peice
Courtesy Parts.com sells titanium exhuast systems that weigh like a total of 40 lbs
the rest sounds good to me. Its probably the Lightweight version that is rumored to be in the works.
and does 3/4 a tank really weigh 90 lbs?
I am going up against a 2300-2500 pound civic soon and am looking for ways to cut weight at no cost.
the bet is stock vs. turboed civic,
I am removing spare and all mats, and jack, and showing up with an little over an 8th of gas maybe a quarter tank.
I hope thats enough!
I dont think the doors weight 100lbs together overall, no way theyd drop 100lbs by replacing the sheet metal.
and gas is 7lbs/gallon I beleive, and 1/4tank is 15gallons lost, so 95lbs to be exact.
and gas is 7lbs/gallon I beleive, and 1/4tank is 15gallons lost, so 95lbs to be exact.
Finally! Seems so rare to see someone improving their car's performance by removing weight instead of tacking on CAI or other stuff.
Simply removing weight improves your acceleration, handling, and braking all at once!
boyze is right -- lose the 19s in favor of light 18s or even 17s and you'll see a real difference. Don't try and tell me that handling will suffer either -- I run 13s on my race car and it's good for ~1.5g!
Of course it weighs <2000 lbs and has Toyo Proxes RA-1's as well...
Simply removing weight improves your acceleration, handling, and braking all at once!
boyze is right -- lose the 19s in favor of light 18s or even 17s and you'll see a real difference. Don't try and tell me that handling will suffer either -- I run 13s on my race car and it's good for ~1.5g!
Of course it weighs <2000 lbs and has Toyo Proxes RA-1's as well...
Originally posted by ares
I dont think the doors weight 100lbs together overall, no way theyd drop 100lbs by replacing the sheet metal.
and gas is 7lbs/gallon I beleive, and 1/4tank is 15gallons lost, so 95lbs to be exact.
I dont think the doors weight 100lbs together overall, no way theyd drop 100lbs by replacing the sheet metal.
and gas is 7lbs/gallon I beleive, and 1/4tank is 15gallons lost, so 95lbs to be exact.
Source: U.S. Dept. of Energy
I heard that you have to be careful on where you remove the weight from. Removing the wrong things from a car for weight loss can result in loss in balance. Since the 350z is such an engineering marvel already, if you are not skilled in tuning or removing things..it's probably best to leave it alone.
Someone should remove the doors, remove the hood, remove the rear hatch, both seats, spare/tools and any interior plastic, and then run it. You could do all that without defiling the car permanently. I bet with all that you'd be under 2500 pretty easily. Just like the Sentra 13 second car, or was it 14s?



