audiom3

iTrader: (5)

Ok so I need some help here. I am working on my sequential turn signals and have run into a problem. When I connect the power for the circuit to the turn signals nothing comes on (when attached to the car). I believe that is because when I test it I use a constant power rather than intermittent like the blinker. A solution I though of was to run a 12v constant back to the blinker with a relay to turn on the signals. This for some reason not only seems like it still wouldn't work but that there is a better way that doesn't involve running external power.

Here are some pics of the curciuts I used for the timing:




Those are what I used as guidelines for mine and here are some pics of what I have done so far.

Turn signal :


Turn Signal With reverse lights on:


<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/audioz33/P1010132.flv">

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/audioz33/P1010133.flv">

Any suggestions on how to hook these up? Thanks in advance

Kuhan

iTrader: (17)

You need add resistors those leds to with blinkers.

audiom3

iTrader: (5)

They already have resistors on the pcb

audiom3

iTrader: (5)

No one has any ideas, I need my rear bumper back on

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

Would a capacitor work? I'm trying to think of a way to stop the blinking power supply. I was thinking with the right sized cap it would store enough power to run the lights while the power was cut off to make the stock lights blink. The only downside to that would be it would run until the cap drained after you shut it off. And of course you would have to put a diode on it to keep it from backfeeding.

IIRC the flasher is built into the BCM so the only way I can think of to run a new line would be to tap the input wires on the BCM and run it to a relay.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

you need a latch circuit.

Basically you take the pulse signal, latch it in and then release when your sequence is done.

drawing a pic up for you

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

Heres what you need to make it work.

The blinker signal needs to be a pulse.
You will also need a signal to signify the end of your led sequence.


Basically it works like so:
Blinker signal will trigger Relay 2 and you pull a NO contact off of it that will trigger Relay 1. A NO contact off of relay one then LATCHES in Relay one. Relay 2 is momentary and will turn off. A second NO contact of relay one will then pass 12V to your led setup. It will be constant. When your sequencer is done you trigger another relay, Relay 3 which has a NC contact that will unlatch Relay1 and the system will be ready to be latched again.

Things to consider:
Your outputs will have to be able to close relays
Your sequence must complete before the blinker blinks again or maybe have it cycle on every other blink. It should work either way.
Be sure to properly fuse your power wires!

aaronz8

very cool idea. good luck

xthejokerx

iTrader: (1)

Wow, very cool idea indeed!

shiftdrift06

iTrader: (24)

I dont know how to read those drawings but that some awesome shiet

audiom3

iTrader: (5)

I think a large cap, or bank of caps might work but I think there are more efficient options Also I was saying run a power wire from a 12v constant and use the flasher signal to activate the relay.



Wow I never would have come up with that on my own, this is exactly what I was looking for. First let me make sure I understand you correctly. The circuit is triggered by the relays, runs, and then is shut off by a relay, correct? If so can I use the output power for the last line of leds as the power to the 3rd relay to signal it to unlatch the system so it can be latched again? Thanks for the help!

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

I just talked to my buddy that knows a good bit about circuitry and stuff and he said to use a cap and a diode as well. The cap only has to be big enough to last the span of time that the light is normally shut off. It will charge while the blink is on, then the turn signals will run off the cap while the front light is shut off.


CUX350Z: Could you explain how the relay "latches"?

The way I'm picturing it the relay would click on and off with the signal.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

Blinker signal energizes Relay 2 which CLOSES the Relay2 Contact. It is a momentary closure that will then energize Relay 1 while the Relay2 Contact opens. Well, Relay one CLOSES the contact Relay 1 which then latches itself it since that contact also feeds 12v to the Relay 1 coil. While Relay 1 is energized it actually has to contacts, the one to latch itself in and the one that will feed 12v to your led assembly.

To unlatch, you have to energize Relay 3 so that it OPENS the relay 3 contact. This will then de-energize Relay1 so the contacts on Relay 1 open and 12v is no longer going to your leds and the Relay 1 coil is no longer latched. It is ready to start the sequence again.



Each relay has a coil and contacts. Relay 3 needs to be NC, Relay 2 NO and Relay 1 with 2 NO's with the ability to provide 12v and the rated current for your assembly.

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

Ah so when you activate relay 1 it sends power to the light as well as itself to stay open?

I never thought of doing that. Would have been handy to know.

Then when you activate relay 3 it kills either the power or ground to relay 1 to shut it down?

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

Kinda

relay 1 will send +12v to the leds and +12v to its own coil through a contact on the relay to keep the coil energized all the contacts closed. When you energize relay 3 coil, the Normally Closed contact OPENS which interrupts the 12v going to Relay1 which causes it to unlatch

circle = coil, needs 12 to be energized
|| = normally open contact off the referenced coil
|/| = normally closed contact off the referenced coil

audiom3

iTrader: (5)

So I have been studying the diagram and I am now confused again how is relay 1 in 2 places??

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

its a relay with two NO contacts instead of just one

NismoZ123

iTrader: (2)

The, uhm, steering column and signal switch directly?

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Very creative. Props to ya...

FliPPER_Z

iTrader: (16)

instead of a 4.7K ohm resistor, use a trimpot to adj your clock.




Your missing the reset on your IC4017...

Redo PIN 15..should go like this...
Ground ---> 15k ohm resistor ---> Pin 15 ----> 2.2uF cap ----Pin 16
without it, the sequence will start in random outputs...