Blankets very hidden w the piping back and on.. actually going to need to ceramic coat it..Asc belts are dying at 200 miles from the heat and turbo position..
Thx oil cap is hks.. I bought it from zfever ..they're a sponsor on here.. they're old school and discontinued. Think it was like 130 bones..

 

life happens, took the front apart Friday night in about 30 minutes.




I had just replaced the alternator w a HOA unit, had an overdrive pulley on it.. and at 7k rpms, that thing didnt last long lol. one quick street pull and it was shot.. 19 miles on the thing and it was toast.. so since it has to get towed to fix ( life is never easy) i decided to yank it all apart to fix the cooling issues it was having anyways at the same time.
Also modifying the headlight housings to accept external ballasts and running 55w gear.
( used a couple toyota PCV valve grommets and some silicone self molding tape, easy fix)





Since the crash bar was left installed and just notched, i removed it fully to allow better airflow.. ( this crash bar does nothing for overall safety honestly.. no bad comments on that plz lol. )

The routing of the oil cooler and the PS cooler now make ZERO sense, so they are both getting moved along w the horns and the airbag sensor and temp sensor... everything was cluttered up along the top of the FMIC in front of the radiator.. no bueno.

Im cutting out the area under the beak on my front bumper as well, making an alum diversion panel on top of the fmic that will scoop down into the bumper opening just a touch as well as cutting out some visible ducts in the nose itself, probably just the standard dual CF vents available for the oem bumper.. theyll likely need to be trimmed so they flow more air, but still a simply job.

When it runs again, Im going to bleed the living hell out of the coolant as well.




might try a different location for the intake as well..

 

I love it man, definitely one of the cleanest Zs I've seen, not a thing I would change to be honest. Hope everything works out.

 

Hi bmccann101your Z looks so sweet and clean! I have a question could you tell me what's the proper way to install the front and rear fenders for the V3 kit? I just place order for the fenders I want to know what's the right way to install them? Do I use screws or clue? Is it easy to take apart let's say the front bumper with the fenders on? Thanks.

 

^? not 100% sure if serious lol.
if you bought a 100% authentic kit, you will be fine, if not, you will be in the body shop for months.

the kit screws on. You can, however, bond it however you want. Id recommend the screws tho.. and even when authentic, it is a difficult kit to install.
the skirts always have to come off to remove any of the body parts. I just put mine back on quickly as they took up too much space in my small garage off the car.

 

Thank you yes dead serious not joking ahaha... the fenders not arrive yet I am just getting some ideas of the right way to install it... I am going to get my body shop to install and paint the fenders. I have another question do I need to have the bottom edge part of the body fenders cut in order to install these four fenders? Also what size of screws or bolts you use for installation?

 

You need the entire vs kit to install these fenders.
The screws are storks security sheet metal scews. Dunno the size.

 

Wayyyyyyyyyyy over the top for my liking, but can appreciate the work.

 

Yes I have the kit already just not the wide fenders! I will install the wide fenders soon and I see the Varrsteon ES1:

(2) 19x9.5 +22 5x114.3

(2) 19x11 +11 5x114.3

Is this good and will the ES1 clear the OEM Brembo Calipers? If I need spacers what size do you recommended?

 

One more question do I need to cut the OEM fenders in order to have the tires clear out or I will be fine not cutting?

 

If you look thru the thread..there's plenty of pics and discussion on this.

Rears r cut deeply and extensively

 

didnt realize how long i havent been driving this car lol.

OK so updates.. car should be back together and running better by Tuesday.

we replaced the high output alternator with a regular OEM version..

the bumper opening was cut out to allow actual airflow to the radiator ( who knew lol)

i also found a 300 cfm pusher fan and shroud to mount directly to my oil cooler, switched in the center console.. for now, it will run when the car is on all the time.. in the winter, ill just leave it off.. only a 5 amp draw regardless. .

We got the down pipe and all the primary tubes off and ceramic coated them... then we header wrapped them again.. silicone sprayed them heavily and wet wrapped them.

We also did the same ceramic coating to the turbine side of the 6266.... clearnaces are still perfect... and there will still be the PTP lava turbo blanket installed.

Wrapping some aluminized fiberglass header tape on the AC lines at the compressor..



cant wait for HIN here in Phoenix Sept 14th i believe.
Car will be entered.. hopefully my Chrysler as well if we can get the build done in time.

 

oh yeah lol.. bought some really high quality HOD bulbs from Retrofit source also.. since im finally going to actually AIM my headlights correctly lol.. i figured id like to see better overall lol.

since im overdriving the bulbs w 55 watt ballasts, the color will be whiter.. but i still ordered 5k white lights.. I should have the absolute best light output color closer to stock 4300-4700 kelvin.. and extremely bright wattage and the clear sti lens.. money.

Bulbs were the XB35s btw. Ill post pics as soon as i pick the car up and get it cleaned.

 

What brand was the hoa? I was thinking about getting one too but I don't know if they all tend to blow...

 

PowerMax. I also noticed a ton of induced noise thru my system on it.. bad news.. all it took was one pull to redline and it was toast.

 

i have to say, this is one of the few Z's that actually pulls off the widebody well AND has enough power to back it up. Looks great!

 

saweet. Thanks.

So updates.. added my 55w ballasts, put her all back together yesterday at Eds place EAC in town here...

My car feels fully fixed.. FINALLY.

SO the new OEM style alternator is working great..

Powersteering flushde and bled..
coolant bled to death..
radiator hole opened up in the bumper
oil cooler fan and shroud
ceramic coated down pipes and turbine housing
header wrap and silicone spray on down pipes..
PTP Lava tubo blanket
and new 1 gauge big 3 wiring completed.
new o2 sensors installed

My crazy localized heat issue seems better now, and the overall temps are in check now as well.. my voltage stays solid.. and the new o2S seemto have cured my hesitation issue.. aside from really needing an alignment done and a new front tire ( has a flat patch.. really shaky steering wheel on the fwy).. this car may in fact be running well now.. whodathunkit.

airflow.. i doubt eh floo rjack will cause much wind resistance and cooling issues lol.







yes this was the only way the pusher fan was going to mount w my fmic piping, cooler lines and bumper design. This fan ran me like 38 bucks and is 300cfm at 4 amps draw.. very cool.

 

I like the name of the thread...

 

Has come a long way, good to see you haven't given up on it and parted it all out. Keep it up man

 

k so updates...

getting ready for HIN Phx on 9/14.. lined up a buyer for my front bumper.. and pulling the trigger on a new bumper for the car..



moar airflow and a less dated look..


aside from that, its apparent that the JWT clutch isnt holding boost torque, so Ive decided to buy a Spec SS twin disc clutch and fw for it, but not for another few months.. got this 300 chrysler to deal with first..