164/194 LED parking light photos
12-17-2003, 06:12 PM
#22
not possible. headlights just require so much output; efficiency isnt as important as power:size ratio. and although LEDs put out alot of light for their power use; they do not put out alot of light for their size. a bulb will operate at a few hundred degrees without a problem; no heat issues since its resistance is the source of its light.
I dont know the precise output of a headlight; but Im sure it would take 50 of these LEDs at full power to dream of comparing; only plausable way would be to start using the 5watt leds; but at 50$ a peice to purchase; youd still need alot; youd easily be at a grand for a set of lights; and still; I doubt youd match the intensity.
I dont know the precise output of a headlight; but Im sure it would take 50 of these LEDs at full power to dream of comparing; only plausable way would be to start using the 5watt leds; but at 50$ a peice to purchase; youd still need alot; youd easily be at a grand for a set of lights; and still; I doubt youd match the intensity.
12-17-2003, 06:19 PM
#23
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that high?
Originally posted by rockshox
put an ammeter on it and check. the power rating of the resistor shouldnt affect the current that much, but they do lose some resistance at high temps.
its one inch per luxeon. is that 5 luxeons? i cant tell from the pic i thought it was one luxeon and 4 5mms.
you are taking into account the fact that cars run at ~14.5v not 12 right? (since i see it connected to a battery)
put an ammeter on it and check. the power rating of the resistor shouldnt affect the current that much, but they do lose some resistance at high temps.
its one inch per luxeon. is that 5 luxeons? i cant tell from the pic i thought it was one luxeon and 4 5mms.
you are taking into account the fact that cars run at ~14.5v not 12 right? (since i see it connected to a battery)
12-18-2003, 09:30 AM
#25
Hey! I wanted to reply sooner, but I've been hit hard with the flu.
The lights look very nice! I don't know why your lights are burning out. With the current setup you have, those lights should NOT be subject to constant on conditions. I wouldn't be surprised to see the emitters burning when lit continuous with 33ohm + 12V source.
I'll try to find time this weekend to take snapshots of the condtions of the lights I have.
Right now I have a little problem. The luxeons came, and that's good. However, my interest in working with them has died down. Maybe the flu has caused severe fatigue in making me feel like this. Turns out my friend is selling his car soon so he doesn't want me to install additional lights.
Now I'm stuck with $200 worth of Luxeons. I also bought a new professional Yamaha keyboard thinking that it would ease my boredom, but now I'm slightly regretting it because of the huge price tag. :-( I hope I don't dig myself a financial hole...
The lights look very nice! I don't know why your lights are burning out. With the current setup you have, those lights should NOT be subject to constant on conditions. I wouldn't be surprised to see the emitters burning when lit continuous with 33ohm + 12V source.
I'll try to find time this weekend to take snapshots of the condtions of the lights I have.
Right now I have a little problem. The luxeons came, and that's good. However, my interest in working with them has died down. Maybe the flu has caused severe fatigue in making me feel like this. Turns out my friend is selling his car soon so he doesn't want me to install additional lights.
Now I'm stuck with $200 worth of Luxeons. I also bought a new professional Yamaha keyboard thinking that it would ease my boredom, but now I'm slightly regretting it because of the huge price tag. :-( I hope I don't dig myself a financial hole...
12-18-2003, 10:31 AM
#27
yeah; tho I think 350mA is just too high; I would like to run at about 275mA. I have another seperate heatsink for it besides the star; and will use 2 resistors to help even the load.
then in normal use; they would only blink; and without a 50watt resistor in there; they will pulse very quickly from the reduced current draw. never staying lit for more than .5sec tops. that will allow a certain bit of excess power that it might not be safe to use always on.
but anyway; decided I gotta take on one task at a time; besides these 2 bulbs I finally got my hands on a set of amber strips from the headlights, so I want to work with those too duplicating them in clear. so much to do so little time; first step is the parking lights; then the turn signals; and lastly the clear strips.
then maybe we'll see about brake lights and stuff.
then in normal use; they would only blink; and without a 50watt resistor in there; they will pulse very quickly from the reduced current draw. never staying lit for more than .5sec tops. that will allow a certain bit of excess power that it might not be safe to use always on.
but anyway; decided I gotta take on one task at a time; besides these 2 bulbs I finally got my hands on a set of amber strips from the headlights, so I want to work with those too duplicating them in clear. so much to do so little time; first step is the parking lights; then the turn signals; and lastly the clear strips.
then maybe we'll see about brake lights and stuff.
12-18-2003, 01:03 PM
#28
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Maybe you'll want to consider offering a modified blinker relay to prevent the fast flashing. All you need is to replace a wire link inside the case with a low-ohm, high-wattage resistor to make the relay think everything's OK.
12-18-2003, 02:06 PM
#30
well its finished; 1w total resistor capacity; 115mA current to the LED.
the angle of the LED is different this time; so I know its hard to tell the difference; but trust me when I say it is bright; to the point that it makes the whole room glow from 15feet away; something it didnt do in the last photo. the current is a little over double what it was in the first photo; and the resistors are increased to handle it.
Im going to install them into my car; take some photos; and then everyone can see how they look. but these are complete as they will be for sale.
the angle of the LED is different this time; so I know its hard to tell the difference; but trust me when I say it is bright; to the point that it makes the whole room glow from 15feet away; something it didnt do in the last photo. the current is a little over double what it was in the first photo; and the resistors are increased to handle it.
Im going to install them into my car; take some photos; and then everyone can see how they look. but these are complete as they will be for sale.
12-18-2003, 02:43 PM
#31
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No, not a 6-ohm, 50W deal...you lose the benefit of low power. I'm talking about modifying the actual relay package, like here...
Modifying your blinker relay
Modifying your blinker relay
12-18-2003, 03:25 PM
#32
ahhh; interesting; Ill have to skim through the service manual and find that; if its not as difficult to do; that shouldnt be any problem to modify; infact, besides removing it that looks easier than screwing around with the wire connectors and all that; plus way cheaper; they get 5$ a peice for the 6ohm 50watt thingies.
anyway, they are installed; and I can begin making them. for more information and the finished installed photos, go here.HERE
anyway, they are installed; and I can begin making them. for more information and the finished installed photos, go here.HERE
12-18-2003, 07:05 PM
#33
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Buy a handful of the relays and modify them. Give people a discount if they ship their relays back to you, just modify those to ship with the next unit.
12-19-2003, 05:50 PM
#36
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Pretty much all new cars use the same setup...a small relay surrounded by a few discrete timing components and an IC for current sensing. Then it's all put in a larger package.
12-19-2003, 07:07 PM
#37
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Originally posted by ares
the last hitch is actually not in the LEDs at all now; its the resistor; it is registering at unstable temps; and I beleive is losing function due to it; as current is dropping. a bigger resistor is all that is needed; too bad theres no room. but Ill figure something out.
the last hitch is actually not in the LEDs at all now; its the resistor; it is registering at unstable temps; and I beleive is losing function due to it; as current is dropping. a bigger resistor is all that is needed; too bad theres no room. but Ill figure something out.
You might be better off not using a resistor, and using something like a solid state voltage / current limiter. Look up LM337. Small package, precise current control, low heat. I'd consider it.
12-20-2003, 10:00 AM
#39
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Originally posted by MacGyver
That's a negative voltage regulator...he'll want something closer to the LM117.
That's a negative voltage regulator...he'll want something closer to the LM117.
Should've looked a little closer at the specs. But I hope we gave ares a better alternative for limiting the current and maintaining a constant light output than trying to do it with current limiting resistors.
Thanks for the correction. I hate to steer anyone in the wrong direction.
12-20-2003, 06:43 PM
#40
Ill look into that; it appears they do still give off a bit of heat as they make a (large) heat sink option for them. that might be really for much higher currents tho. have to investigate more. they also might still be too large. the space in there is pretty tight; I beleive I can fit 2 2watt resistors which should give me some nice options. probably toy with these too tho!